testriderchuck

Bought a new Bolt, trading fuel bill for a payment on new (low miles) vehicle. Then Bambi got in the way @ 72mph, back in the energi while un-Bambi-ing the bolt. FFE now has 278000. still going ok, no issues but how many more miles before it blows up?

My '14 energi popped this code a few days ago. WRENCH +CEL. Wouldn't do regen, used the ice instead. Cycled ignition seemed to go away. cleared codes, haven't come back. Is got 264K miles. No issues except those minor ones listed elsewhere, this forum. Temps were low, near 0. I'd been on hiway for an hour. Ideas? Is it me to retire or, use it as backup ride and get an EV?

Update. Today is 261558 and counting.

Look for my post/pic (there aren't many from me). I found a chafed /shorted wire behind the hvb battery cover above - ish the 12v. Dealer replaced a couple things, probable to justify their fees. There's also a fuse, i think 53 that blows. It's not intuitive and, if I remember, it's on the under side of the panel under the hood.

If you're wanting to convert something, start with an S10 or Ranger, small engine, 4spd tranny. Remove engine, related stuff. Replace weight with batteries etc. I found a book written 20+ years ago about how to do this. Guys were getting 100 miles with lead acid batteries, DC motors. Same weight LiPo you'd probably get 300+, if you had the room. Best wishes.

I found another post, similar issue. Turns out the battery cooling fan wire was routed poorly across a sharp metal edge, chafed through and shorted out. Blowing some fuses. I fixed shorting issue, but Ford documentation was misleading as to which fuse. Ended up taking to dealer, paid them $170 to replace a fuse and a "bad" breaker.

I've a '14 FFE, purchased with 85k In 5/2020. With 95% freeway miles it's over 235k now. I run in L, mostly because I like the more aggressive regen. I'm not a lead-foot, but I'm not afraid to use the power available when needed (on ramps...) I charge hvb whenever home, mostly from 120v, use EV Later mostly, trying to arrive back home close to 0%. Basically I use it, don't abuse it. How many more miles can I expect before something mechanical dies or blows up? What does Ford say?

'14. I keep the HVB charged whenever i can. Home has a 110V. On Hiway I try to run in EVLater, saving HVB for when I get to town. or hill assist. I do delivery for "income". Currently about 280 miles X 5 days a week. these fuel prices suck.

Sorry, Mine's a '14

206K. 95% highway since purchased @ 85K May of 2020. only issue HVB cooling fan wire harness chafed, shorted. Dealer had to fix. Else It's been a good ride.

So, I've a '14 energi. I take it the battery is good for about 5kwh max? I wouldn't mind replacing it with more capacity, if one could be crammed into the trunk space (what trunk space, right?) without breaking the bank. then again, I've put 120K+ miles in the last 22 months (I do long distance delivery) I run mostly in EVLater, saving the battery for in-town area's. So far it's running like it did @ 83K when I bought it. haven't had any problem except the wrench light because the HVB fan wire chafed, shorted. been fixed. any idea's when this vehicle may crap out/die/blow up? Just so I have a chance to be prepared for when it does, I'll probably keep driving it till it needs something major.

I may be a little late to this party, but, if these fords are anything like the '93 Chrysler T&C I had years ago, the fuel return line went into a cup that surrounded the fuel pump, keeping it in a constantly-replenished quart or so of fuel, which overflowed into the rest of the tank. THEREFORE, on that particular vehicle, the engine would starve for fuel before the fuel pump wold lose it's coolant (fuel). I haven't changed any more recent fuel pumps so this may not be the case here, take a look at a replacement pump to be certain.

Mine developed the same issue, about the same time. P0A81 code. I've put some info on another thread, search for posts from me, there's only a couple. What I'm finding is a more serious issue is that, without both battery fans running the DC - DC converter (changes 320V DC to 12V DC) gets hot and shuts down. It's part of the HVB assembly and relies on the fans to keep cool. The HVB gets warm when charging OR discharging, needs to be cooled. fans draw air through the vent in the package shelf and out into the trunk/outside. Good luck finding a dealer that's interested in other than your wallet.

6 weeks later and the codes aren't going away. I've tried several things, leading me to believe that the fan actually runs, maybe just when plugged in, not sure. I moved the connector from the right fan into the plug for the left (barely reached), fan does run but apparently either 1. the right fan doesn't have a speed signal or 2. the speed monitoring circuit in the Battery Energy Control Module is bad. Dealerships not really interested in helping other than taking my money. I've exhausted my troubleshooting ability without more information, like the pinouts at the connectors.

Further investigation revealed chafed wires where they crossed the mount bracket for the cooling fan assembly, along with exposed wire. I used zip ties. Here's hoping the car will clear the code on its own....

Murphy: At first I wasn't looking at the mounting bracket for the fan assembly, until I saw frayed black tape and looked closer, saw exposed conductor. I used zip ties. Here's hoping the car doesn't take too long to turn off the code...

HMMM, I've got the same wrench @ "start". '14 energi SE, 176K I did note that at least one (right side) cooling fan runs when plugged in and charging. The wires on the vertical panel (inside of wheel well) are all secured in what appears to be factory position, nothing nearby to chafe against. If I hafta pay dealer $135 to "diagnose" the problem... Seems like the dealers should have access to a database of codes and what fixed the problem. Or is that concept a pipe dream???

Mine (2014) does it too, full HVB and cool engine (charging for an hour after a 100 mile drive) Especially if heater is on (which I'm OK with). Revs engine to over 4000, in neutral, NOT OK with. My solution : leave it in D until /unless I want heat, then I use EV/Later.

Try this order: 1. start car 2. fasten seat belt while: 3. cursing the stupid seat belt chime 4. select D or R. this gives ECU time to "boot up". Works in a '10 prius, probably others if you can figure out how to turn off the cursed chimes.

I've found that moving to L at freeway speeds lowers the engine RPM by almost 1000. How can that NOT improve fuel economy? I also like the aggressive Decel I get. You'll likely get lower regen miles because of the higher regen rate. Thankfully cruise works in L, unlike my 10 prius.