Towmod

In the stock system head unit output is run only to the woofer. The woofer contains the crossover soldered to the terminal connectors and from there a line was run to the tweeters. When I had the Polk's installed they simply ran the the headamp wire to the crossover input and then ran the two crossover outputs to the correct speaker component. I ended up setting the tweeters to -3 because the center channel speakers (front and rear deck) were going to remain SONY and I wanted to add more highs to them by turning up the treble on the head unit,

I used all the stock amps and the Polks sound much better than the stock Sony speakers. To be honest I don't believe that amps will help out that much. Living with the system now for nearly 2 years i really think that the head unit is the main problem. Features like adjustable input level for MP3 or Bluetooth is a must, and only a 3 band EQ are really issues that prevent proper volume and tuning of the system. The stock speakers really boom in the lover mids and the Polks do a lot to fix that but really and EQ is needed to properly get rid of this. Its really a cheap head unit that for a car this expensive should have in it, BTW should you get the Polks set the tweeters in the crossovers to -3 otherwise the highs will be too hot.

They are but to be honest all you need to do is have higher efficiency speakers (around 91db) for loud and a clear enough system. The output of the Sony is about 20 watts RMS per channel (all 6 of them). Plus I believe there is a small sub amp somewhere in the trunk. The speaker range fro 2 to 4 ohms and have a capacity up to 25 watts/

For those in California who missed it the first time around get them while they are still available as I'm sure dealers will get them for all the cars on their lots! Per budget trailer bill, SB 853 (Statutes 2014, chapter 27), the green decal limit has been increased by 15,000 stickers effective July 1, 2014. As of May 9, 2014, 40,000 "green" stickers have been issued. Green stickers are valid through January 1, 2019.

Thanks all for your responses. I did disconnect and reconnected the ground battery cable from the battery and as soon as it was reconnected the car rebooted itself and everything that wasn’t working was now working correctly. In fact even the missing Value Charge Times had been restored to the their previous and correct values. On a side note regarding the Value charge, that if you don’t set the time to a period long enough to fully charge the HV battery (at that batteries current state) the system will change the Value Start Time to the current time and charging will begin as soon as the charger cable is plugged it. For example I set my charging time from 12am to 6am and the system changes to the current time to 6am because the time needed to charge the HV battery is 6.2 hours. If you set the time from either 11pm to 6am or 12am to 7am the system leaves your inputted times alone and follows them. I’m surprised that Ford hasn't fixed this issue as it shouldn't be mandatory to set the charge time long enough to get a full charge when in my case I get super off peak rates only from 12am to 6am. Again thanks everyone. Oh and thanks Ford for the $850, it sure beats the BS of GM with the ignition fiasco.

Thanks for the reply, No I don't have any go times and never have. Maybe Ill try and creating one. Appt with the dealer this Friday.

This is a nice surprise especially since I would get mileage very similar to the original estimates. https://discussions.myfordmobile.com/discussions/MyFord_Mobile_Discussions/PHEV_PlugIn_Hybrid_Ownership/Ford_Lowers_Fuel_Economy_Ratings_Goodwill_Payments_to_be_Paid_to_Owners/mfm010000d1/417.1?lang=en_us

Thanks for your reply. After looking at the owners manual and where it states: Note:It may be easier to access the fuse panel if you remove the finish trim piece. That cant be a good omen. Looks like Ill try the battery first.

Since yesterday I have lost the ability to 'value charge' my vehicle. When i go to the charge screen neither the charge now or the value charge buttons are highlighted. If i press either one I get the touch beep but neither highlights. Also the charge time says it will charge at the current time. Additionally the value charge times are blank. When I plug in the charger it immediately begins to charge. Prior to yesterday it has worked well for nearly a year. I have gone to the My-ford Mobile app on the PC and my phone and neither app can contact my car. I have tried in areas that I know have a good signal and nothing. In fact it shows my car at my home when i'm miles away. I have Navigation in the car and it works just fine and under the sync services it knows my exact location. I have reset sync twice and no luck. I seems like the car cannot receive or possibly reply back to Ford when queried. Looks like I may have two issues but is suspect its all about something that can be reset. Looking for help to avoid a run to the dealer. Any ideas?

Mine works well int h LA area, you might want to compare to another service to see want if any alerts they have at the same time.

To answer your questions.... 1) Do you have the Sony 12 spkr system? Yes I do. 2) When you say changing rear are you talking about rear doors or rear deck? The rear doors. I have also installed the Db6501s in the rears doors and it has made a big difference in the clarity of the overall system. 3) Do you think if I just change rear deck speakers to 6x9? to Polk AUdio DB691 3-way speakers would it improve sound quality? I wouldn't as there would be way to much mid and high frequency. This isn't a 70's sound system where most of the sound comes from the rear. Modern sound systems are setup where only the bass (which is not directional) comes from the rear. Also the 'surround' mode would not work correctly with full range sounds coming from the rear shelf. 4) Do you know is rear deck speaker just regular speaker (not dedicated sub-woofer) and if it is 6x9? The rear deck has dual 6x9 subs in it and one 3.5 inch center channel to match the front center channel setup for the rear passengers. 5) If so should I be able to just plug in new 6x9 3 ways and mount? There aren't a lot of 6x9 subs i would just stick to the stock units. Ford also uses a unique mounting bracket for the rear shelf that would require some work, Overall the sound has been greatly improved with the Polks installed. I know what you mean about the stock speakers not sounding just right. They didn't. I have found that with the Polks crossovers set at -3db I am able to run the EQ controls at 0db for the bass, 0db for the mids. and plus +1 for the treble. This to me gives the best clarity to the system without the hollowing and heavy midbass that the stock speakers have. The reason I turned down the tweeters to -3 is that at 0 they are too hot and i need to turn down the treble two clicks and while that gives the same results it also turns down the front and rear center channel speakers and then the highs disappear from the center speakers. One also important setting i have found is that i also set the fade to decrease the front speakers 3 clicks. This balances the system for more natural sound without the front speakers sounding to loud and over powering the rest of the system. For the radio settings this fade does not decrease the overall power of the system but for my iPhone it does a bit when playing MP3s. To compensate for this I set the entire iTunes library to +6 to boost the input level to the Sony system. Give the speakers 30 days to burn in and what a great sound you will have. About the only other change I would make to the system is to change the center channel speakers to Polk db351s but It appears to get to the the front center channel speaker would cost far more than what would be gained by a speaker swap. Let me know if you have any other questions.

I had installed new speakers in my 13 Titanium. They are Polk DB6501 components installed in the front doors. The difference in sound is great and cant wait to install the rears (they are on order). I had the tweeters set at level but think when i go back to have the rears installed i'm going to make all 4 tweeters set at -3db. I've included a few photos am I willing to sell to anyone the original speakers. For anyone interested please PM me. Door without any speakers Inside of door panel. A lot of plastic. Door panel with the original tweeter still installed. New mid-woofer installed. Used Dynamat and it eliminated 90% of all buzzing in the door panels. Also placed it in key rattle spots to help out. All buttoned up. Everything fit like a glove. The only mod was for the new tweeter and that was just some plastic cutting for the new 'larger' tweeter and some hot glue.

My door Fusion badges fell off twice and finally just had the dealer remove the door Fusion letters and leave the Enegi door badges... Looks much better. A lot less busy.

After some experimentation I've found the optimal settings are as follows: Set the bass to +2; set the treble to +3; set the Mid to 0; set the balance to center; set the fader two clicks towards the back. The seems to bring down the loudness in the front and brings in the right amount of bass from the back. Additionally this provides the best maximum volume for the full range) The two 6x9 speakers are the subwoofers and the center speaker provides the treble for them. This makes sense as the entire system is a component speaker setup.

No need to dry the port off or worry about it, its completely water sealed.