AlexMo

the article below mentions this software as a "National Security Issue" and wonder if Ford uses it? micodus alert "If China can remotely control vehicles in the United States, we have a problem. With the fast growth in adoption of mobile devices and the desire for our society to be more connected, it is easy to overlook the fact that GPS tracking devices such as these can greatly increase cyber risk if they are not built with security in mind. BitSight's research findings highlight how having secure IoT infrastructure is even more critical when these vulnerabilities can easily be exploited to impact our personal safety and national security, and lead to extreme outcomes such as large-scale fleet management interruption and even loss of life."

I have been dialing around, and got this phone # which is supposed to be "All things EV" at Ford: 800.392.3673. How technical their support there is I am not sure, got the # from the Lightning Marketing team, who seemed to be reasonably non-technical.

Thanks for the clarification on US power standards, @murphy. https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/bringing-evs-into-the-smart-grid-for-stability-and-security this article was written by European authors allegedly (Europe does have 220v standard) and an interesting note in that article is that the J1772 charging interface isn't two-way (able to stop charging when it gets a signal of "full" or "stop" from the vehicle). I could swear though, that several charging stations I took the Energi to recently had a charging indicator that went off when the Fusion HVB was showing full. I also noticed a phenomenon that has bothered me with this car, where the cabin battery (12V) goes down and the dash LCD shows "System turned off to conserve Battery" any time I sit in the car while charging and listen to the audio (Master switch off, but audio switched on). Wonder if this eats the cabin battery? This is a newly replaced battery, and a Titanium trip package, so possibly there is a firmware update (non-SYNC) for this issue? I have noticed there is a 3G->4G recall available for it so I may just have the dealer look into the battery drain problem at the same time. Battery was replaced 6-7 months ago, and was the "low end" (non-AGM) model, if that helps.

seems like all the stations I have found that offer Free L2 charging are *not* in the FordPass app; also, the ones that are in there are often in Apartment parking lots and are meant for residents only. And although the article above states that some vehicles are going to be able to charge at 150 kw stations (such as are offered free to VW ID4 buyers) at Electrify America stations, not really clear what the costs are currently or are going to be in the future. I've seen everything from 12 to 95 cents per kWh around my neck of the woods; wonder if this may eventually be controlled by state or federal entities, like the gas tax that pays for road maintenance (or not if you own an EV).

https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/electric-vehicles/public-charging/where-are-ford-electric-vehicle-charging-stations/ states: "The FordPass Charging Network is the largest public charging network in North America, with over 16,000 charging stations (almost 40,000 plugs) and growing." Guess I'm hoping for clarity as to whether any "electric vehicle" can use these 16 000 stations, my dealer states one should always carry a Tesla adapter, wonder if anybody has used one of those on a Fusion Energi at a Tesla "Supercharger" location? Doubt you want to put more than L2 240V@30A through the port, or even can. Also looking for information on apps like "PlugShare" that will allow me to plug in at private homes (seems a bit creepy inviting anybody with an app to your charging station, but that may be the future). Thanks, Alex

With the lightning and Mach-E spinning up for Ford it appears they are readying a nationwide charging Network but I'm not sure if it would apply to Energi models? I also notice they're offering for purchasers of the MachE charging at the Volkswagen Electrify America locations. I'm researching this because I have plunked down a hundred bucks on a Ford Lightning pickup which may or may not ever ship, unclear if it will get similar charge benefits.

This is great info, all! It makes sense that Ford wanted to protect the many laboriously inputted settings (WiFi password, door codes, charging schedule, etc.), so you can't drain all batteries at once a la Tesla. But why the HVB can't "assist" with starting is not so clear; I noticed that when the starting battery is dead, I could no longer charge through the L2 port either. My battery is still in good shape after the full discharge, and I use about an 80/20 mix typically of EV/ICE. So something is sending charge to the 12V battery even when the ICE isn't turning/charging, right? Therefore, how can the 12V battery get 100% discharged while the HVB is 100% charged? Maybe one of the EEs here can 'splain that to me. Really a headscratcher too that I can lock the car and it will leave the headlights burning, so I guess it's a slight engineering oversight, and I'll consider it part of the learning process. The "you left your lights on" chime is a bit subtle, not rapid and annoying like my 99 Dodge Ram pickup, so that may be an engineering/useability testing oversight as well. I guess every car has its quirks, and the later, high-tech models have plenty, I'm sure. Still really love this car, EV mode gets me to most destinations and I've used about 100 gallons of gas since buying the car used in April 2019. Our climate is pretty mild in nearly coastal Oregon too, which is probably why the battery is still in good shape. It is good to know that a hot swap is needed to change the battery out when it does die. Will I get longer life out of an AGM battery? I know they're used in aircraft and some marine applications where you don't want the possibility of acid leakage due to inversion or dramatic departure from level. Sounds like the reverse terminal thing could be an annoyance in the cramped space of the Energi trunk.

Right you are, Murphy, I was kinda documenting my "learning process" (couldn't find the keyhole till I called the dealer). Understand about all the vampire equipment, the real puzzler for me is that there is no auto-shutdown for anything as big of a drainer as the headlights. Almost all car manufacturers have some sort of time delay for lights-out these days, no? Tesla engineering may have been copied by Ford in some respects, but since the Fusion line is discontinued, I can't see a "Suggestion Box" existing anywhere ? so I'll just have to learn from my mistakes, and triple check the lights are never left in manual-on position. When I point the fob at the car and say "All Off" I'll have to remember that means everything except the headlights.... and I do drive it 2-3x per week, so doubt the dealer's estimate of 3-year battery life. Still would like to hear if anyone has attempted a replacement themselves, does seem to be a lot of thin-wall padded material in the trunk to take loose first.

I totally drained the battery by leaving the lights on. I was so used to my 2015 Subaru that automatically killed lights when keyed off or just left for a few minutes, that I assumed the Fusion worked the same way -- WRONG! Then found out how to put a jumper a terminal on the left side of the engine compartment, and get it started. Then (stupidly/ignorantly) without driving it, locked the car and took off for 3 days. When I got back, I was locked out of a dead car! Then found out about the plastic snap over the door handle, hiding the keyhole. Got her started, rode around for 15-20 miles, took it to the dealer, and noticed the lights were still on. If you leave the lights on manual (one click to the left of the auto position, far right side of the dial) overnight, consider your "starting" battery dead. Yes, even if you lock the car from outside. Yes, even if you charge with the external L2 port for numerous hours. Lesson learned: the high-voltage (plug-in) battery *and* the medium-voltage hybrid battery will not "donate" juice to the main battery (located inconveniently in the now-inaccessible trunk, with the jump terminal in the now-inaccessible engine compartment). Also ... dealer mentioned: replacing the 12V battery was "no small deal" due to the tight fit in the trunk with the plug-in batteries controlling space .. anyone done it? the 12V supplied by the factory often went south after ~3 years (age of mine) ... anyone seen that? So why does a car smart enough to connect to my wi-fi also dumb enough to drain the master battery when lights are left in manual on? See attached a photo proving I could get a bag of clubs and a pull-cart in the Energi trunk, my 12V battery is located behind the near left wheel of the cart.

I tried that, nothing showing in the history. Most auto parts stores, however, have a scan tool, and the one I went to cleared my error, which was from the fuel door open sensor; I also cycled it a few times, and VOILA! No more check engine light, no more needless trip to dealer-land. I do think the fuel door circuitry is a bit over-complexified but clearing dumb errors like this should be easier, certainly if they are sharing the innerds of the "Engineering" sanctum, there should be some way to clear errors there as well. I certainly don't want a bad fuel door sensor masking the presence a hole in the oil pan!

Just came on a few miles ago; just wondering, because of all the smarts in this car, if there are any "driver diagnostics" available to look up the code, I have made appointment with dealer however, and hope if it is anything major it will be covered under factory warr. Thanks!

I have noticed a noise that may come from rear brake pads, but it also may be the drive motors, seems worse on damp or wet mornings; goes away after a few miles of driving. Anyone else?