Red

was thinking on the drive home about how you have to change the engine and cabin air filters on a maintenance schedule, and wondering what prevents the HV battery cooling running in tip top shape. I have not seen or read anything about an air filter for the battery pack, so am I correct in assuming there isn't a dedicated filter for it? beyond that, has anyone torn down a higher mileage battery pack and observed significant dust bunnies in the pack? it occurred to me that in the heat of last summer, I may have frequently pushed the battery pack hard, which also leaves me wondering if there is a way (through Forscan or some other tool) to increase the fan speed/curve to increase cooling on those 100 degree summer days. thoughts?

there lies the concern. An alternator in a conventional car charges in the 14.4V range. the DC-DC charging seems to be at a higher voltage (15V or higher as some suggest) be an attributing factor to 12V battery failure...especially IF those Hermosillo batteries were marginal to start with? beyond that....why did they even bother with a 12V battery at all? I assume its a bridge/artifact of the times, and does serve some lesser purpose, but couldn't they have just as easily deleted it and run everything off the HVB?

If you drive the car every day you shouldn't have a problem. If you drive the car once a week you will have 12 volt battery problems. This tidbit of info is why I felt little hesitation in buying the car. Given the mileage (5900 miles) over the period that the original owner has the car (bought late 2016, sold back to Ford in late 2018), plus the suspect problem batteries from the factory, I figured the "wounds" were self inflicted, and there was probably little to nothing wrong with the car (especially after the original battery was replaced last month). I will be sure to get a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery terminals under the same conditions....15V just struck me funny, especially with the car not fully "ON". Will report back hopefully this weekend if time permits. Big thanks to the info on this forum. Hell, I just bought a 2 year old car for less than 1/2 price new, with only 5900 miles on the odometer. I'm satisfied and fingers crossed will be for many miles! Lol, never thought I'd have a Ford for a daily driver!

Has anyone done ay experiementation with the various gasoline types that are available at the pump? I noticed the owners manual mentions that Premium gas can provide benefit at higher temperatures, which stoked my curiousity. Its still rather cool where I am (30F's), so the higher temp thing isn't going to come into play for another 3-4 months. I previously drove a 2012 Nissan Altima 4 cylinder. About the 2nd year I owned it, E15 came on the scene where I lived. Instinctually, I figured it would be detrimental to gas mileage. I was surprised to discover that on average, I was getting about 0.5 to 1.0 MPG better mileage on E15 that I had been getting on regular gas (I assume E10, whether it was claimed at the pump or not). It wasn't just one as station vs another, it didn't seem to correlate to season ( I had the car almost 9 year and 108k miles, lots of data), I would consistently get more miles per tank (and calculated more MPG) on E15...which always baffled me, but whatever. Anyway, this got me wondering if anyone has done similar record keeping with their FFE. I'm only about 600 miles into this car, and am totally geeking out on the experience. The two times I've topped off, I put about 75% premium, 25% regular in the tank....purely out of ignorance or curiosity or whatever. Just curious if anyone has any data on fuel type to mileage or performance. Cheers!

Hi all - new guy here. I just bought a "manufacturer buy-back" a.k.a. lemon 2017 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium. the original owner put about 5900 miles on it over the course of a year or so, and (from the service records that I saw) started having the dead 12V battery issue. Apparently the dealer couldn't resolve the issue, so Ford bought the car back. They ran some firmware updates, replaced the 12V battery, changed the oil and put it back up for sale. So, I'm on week one with the car now, like it a lot, but am being very attentive to the 12V system for now. I bought an OBDlink MX+ on a whim this weekend, and started messing with it last night in the garage....where I noticed something that struck me funny. I do not remember the parameter name (can probably re-check it if anyone cares)...it was something like 12V battery voltage. Anyway, sitting in the car, with the ignition on but not started (blinking green light on ignition button), I noticed the reading for the 12V battery was bouncing right about 15V. This seems quite high for a charge voltage. Upon turning the ignition off, the car responded as I expected, the voltage dropped into the low 13s and was creeping lower for the few seconds I watched it. My Point...do you suppose there is some correlation between the HV to 12V DC-DC running at 15V, and the battery failures that have occurred (both with my car before I owned it and others)? Looking for ideas to further vet out this theory...let me know if you have any ideas!