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Thank you for the reply. The car was bought on auction and imported to Georgia (the country). So, the warranty of any kind is not accessible by me. The car has 155 000 KM (96 000 miles) on it. I think the problem is caused by water intrusion. I had to drive through some puddles and that might be the reason. I will definitely get the DTCs read. I just wanted to know, if somehow this could be connected to my transmission problem. Could failing transmission cause hybrid system not to work? *Update - Started the car today, powertrain failure light was gone, hybrid system worked normally, but SES light was still on. Plugged in and charged with 240 volts up to 40%, started the car again, SES light was still on, but EV now mode also worked fine. Drove about 1 KM, shut the car down, started it again and SES light was also gone. I am now sure that the problem was the water intrusion and it dried out and now works fine.

Hello, I am having a really bad day, I just found out that my transmission needs to be repaired/replaced. Not only this, but after I left from the mechanic's, I saw service engine soon and powertrain fault lights come on. At first I did not notice any strange behaviors from the car, but after I let it sit and couple of hours passed, I started it up again, the lights are still there but now the ICE is always on. I mean, hybrid system does not work. Earlier today I had to drive on a very bad road and it was raining, so I went through some water. I know that wet cables might cause the service engine soon light and it might go away by itself, but I do not understand why the ICE is always on. Could it be connected to the transmission? But, I have known for more than a week that my transmission needed a replacement, but the car still drove fine. Has anyone ever had such problem?

Greetings, I have come across with a strange situation today. My 2014 Titanium Energi has been working fine. But today I heard some strange noises coming from the hood. So, I live in Georgia (the country, not the state). It's very hot here. I just came back from work and plugged in my car for charging (outside). When I went out, I tried using EV mode, but it said that the engine needed to be enabled. I guess this is normal, because it's very hot and the electric engine could not manage to cool down in time. This has happened before when its very hot and I am not worried about that. But the problem now is that, even though the engine is enabled, the hybrid part still works, right? So, every time ICE shut down and electric motor kicked in, I heard a weird noise and it seemed liked somehow at that moment car was jumping forward a little. I stopped the car to check and when I let the ICE turn on and wait for it to shut down, there is a very strange rattling noise coming either from ICE or from the electric motor part, right next to the ICE. I have experienced this once or twice a couple of months ago, but it did it only once and then the problem went away. Again, today, I let the car sit for a while, tried it again and now there is no such sound anymore. I also noticed that, the car gets very week while using AC and shimmers somehow. I am sure that I have to change spark plugs because of this, since it is still due for changing. Is there anyway, this sound might be connected to spark plugs? If not, what can be causing this and should I be worried? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am attaching a video for the demonstration -

I also think that it might be normal but I will still, I will take it to the dealer and ask them to check when I have a chance to go there. I will post the results here.

Hello! I have a 2014 Fusion Energi Titanium. Several months ago noticed that, when I press on accelerator, a clicking/ticking sound comes form the lower passenger side, same happens when I release the accelerator. It feels like, when I accelerate, something turns on and when I release the accelerator, it turns off. Even if I am at a full stop and release the brake without pressing on accelerator itself, I can hear the sound. I think this might be normal. When the car needs a power to start moving, something turns on and when it does not need the power (when I release the accelerator) it turns off. Although, I do not think that it must be audible. Has anyone ever had this issue? And if so, should I be worried or is it normal? P.S. I found a video on Youtube and the sound I hear is similar, but only in cases I have mentioned above. Here is the video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5YmVKWUqoE

It depends on how and where I drive the car and I might really get very close to actual 24 miles. But, usually even though it said 26 miles, I have never gotten that much.

It depends on how and where I drive the car and I might really get very close to actual 24 miles. But, usually even though it said 26 miles, I have never gotten that much.

Also I wanted to add - weather got warmer and now my car shows that I have 39km (24 miles) of ev range.

Thanks. I understood. So, I checked another thing and found out that the car takes 3.7 kWh per full charge (after driving fully charged car, I drained it with one trip and the dash said so). The car has 75k miles on it. Is this normal?

Yes, mine also takes less than 2.5 hours, I just wrote an approximate time. The technician checked it and he sad that it could be modified so that it wold work on 240V. What I do not understand is that, when they do such thing (for example, I have seen people modify 120V Xbox charger to 220V here) although input voltage changes, but output should stay the same, because as long as I know, they only replace a resistor. So, with this resistor, the main board of the charger should get the same voltage as it would get before, when working with 120V. So the output must be the same and it concerns me that the car thinks that I am using level 2 charger. This is just my theory, I do not really know what they really did inside the charger.

Well, that's good to hear. I was worried, because I did not expect the range to be at least more than 16 miles without a/c. Also, there is another thing that might have somehow affected the range. I imported my car in Georgia and we have only EU plug here and normal voltage is 220v. So I took the OEM charger to a technician and they modifies it. So now, it is connected straight in 220v and car seems to consider it as level 2 charger rather than level 1 (this is my theory because the car gets 100% charged in 2.5 hours). Any thought?

Well, when I bought the car I had to replace 12V battery, so I do not really know how it was working before. And it's not very cold in my region right now, now it is 15°C, roughly 60°F, so I guess weather must not be a problem.

Hello.I have a same problem. I only get 15 miles without a/c. With a/c I get even less, just 7 miles. Does anyone know what could be the problem?

Thanks, that will be great. Update: It worked, I put the magnet on its original location and both "Close the fuel door" sign and "Check engine light" went away. Thank you for your help!

Thanks for the reply. You mean this place, right?: https://ibb.co/6y3QBc9 and this hole is divided into two and as I understand, it should be in the upper post. Also, should the magnet go all the way in? When I tried to put it inside of this hole's upper post I could not push it deep inside. I put it in that position, checked it and it still showed on the dash that the fuel door was open. I was thinking, maybe the system needs to reset after putting the magnet on its original position for the "close the fuel door" sign to go away?

An Update! I dismantled the fuel door and the magnet was loose, the problem is that I cannot find out where it was located originally. Can anyone post a picture showing where the magnet goes? This surely must be the reason of the "Close the fuel door" sign.

I read the code and it is P04B5 and the code description matches my problem. I actually read about that, but it does not help me with the problem I'm having. Anyway, thanks for the info. Thank you, actually I do hear some noises from the fuel door when I open it, sounds like something is loose inside of it. I will check it and post the results here.

Hello! I just bought a 2014 Fusion Energi Titanium, everything seemed okay until several days ago, I refueled it and after closing the fuel door, "Close the fuel door" sign appeared on the dash. Although, the door itself is actually closed and is working fine. At first I thought that it might be a fuel door spring problem (part number: DM5Z9928610A), but I dismantled it and there is nothing in there that could have been broken. Maybe some of you guys have experienced the same problem. I checked some posts and when they have similar problem, mostly their fuel door either is not opening properly, or not closing. As I said, mine is working fine, the only problem is the sign, which causes Check Engine Light to illuminate and this light prevents car to start remotely with key. (as I know, being unable to use remote start when SES light is on is normal and I also know that when a fuel door is open during three driving cycles, the illuminated SES light is normal). So, the problem is that, although the fuel door is closed, the car thinks that it is open, which causes all of my problems. I cannot take it to the dealer, because I live in the country of Georgia and I imported an used car from California. We have only one Ford dealer in Georgia and they hesitate to work with imported cars that they have not sold themselves. So, I would appreciate your advises.