Mr.Fusion

Kumhos are cheap for a reason. You will hate yourself after a year or so, and as in the case with the only set I've ever owned, they will actively attempt to murder you in anything less than perfect driving conditions. Road noise wasn't as bad as those Toyos I also regret buying. For my money, it's Continental or Michelin - End of list.

Yes- Almost as if I'm "too quick" for the computer to finish doing all their checks before verifying (or ignoring) the gear change. I've started turning the park brake off first before turning the dial to "R" or "D". Usually that extra second is enough for the ECU to "get ready" to go. It's an annoyance.

First modification to the '18 Energi has been completed. I wasn't happy that the car didn't come with fog lights and also wanted the "OE" type LED style of the '17+ lights as I feel they fit best with the look of the front end. I did some research, and took my best guess ordering the following: LED Fog Lamp Assembly, LH: HS73-15A255-CD LED Fog Lamp Assembly, RH: HS73-15A254-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, LH: HS7Z-17B814-CB Fog Lamp Grille Trim, RH: HS7Z-17B814-CA Headlight Switch for Fog Lamps: DG9Z-11654-BA (SW6985) My Fusion does NOT have auto-park / adaptive cruise control, so I ordered the: Fog Lamp Harness: HG9Z-15K867-C The chrome bezels on the front of the 17+ Fusions ARE removable, but be VERY careful when doing so - The tabs are brittle and will break off with very little force. I only lost one tab each, but you may not be so lucky. If you want them on-hand, order: Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, LH: HS7Z-15266-AB Fog Lamp Grille Chrome Trim, RH: HS7Z-15266-AA Note that the fog lamps themselves are LED, and not serviceable. Thus, they're expensive to order new from Ford - About $190 each. I happen to find some 2nd hand ones on Ebay, but make sure you do a thorough check! There are two tabs with bolt holes on each assembly plus a locator "tab" that are broken on most of the Ebay ones - Make sure you get the ones with the tabs in-tact (not repaired). Start by removing the bumper cover. This is accomplished with a screwdriver or plastic trim removal tool, a T25 Torx socket, a 10mm socket, and a 7mm socket. Remove the upper T25 Torx screws from either side of the grille, right by the headlights: Remove the 10mm bolts (3) from the top of the bumper cover: Remove the plastic two-part clips from the radiator cover by first using a flat-head screwdriver to lift up on the inner part of the clip: Then pull the lower part out with the screwdriver or your fingers (it should easily lift out): Turn the wheel all the way to the right to access the clip and bolts holding the inner fender cover to the bumper cover: Remove the two visible 7mm screws and the plastic clip using the same method as with the radiator cover: Peel back the inner fender cover to reveal two 8mm bolts holding the bumper cover to the fender. Remove those bolts, best accomplished with long extension and universal joint on the rachet: Turn the wheel to the left to repeat with the passenger's side inner fender cover. Finally, remove the 10-12 7mm screws holding the bumper cover to the underside of the car: With those screws removed, the bumper cover should be loose. Pull the bumper cover away from the fenders using a plastic pry tool as not to scratch the paint. Once the cover is loose, three wire connectors must be detached. A small one on the upper driver's side of the inner cover: The main front bumper cover harness: And the active shutter harness: I actually didn't disconnect this harness, as it is connected at the center of the shutters and has several clips that hold it onto the lower radiator support. More on that in a minute. Set the bumper cover on something soft like a moving blanket or similar to avoid scratching it: When I compared the two bumper harnesses, I immediately knew something was wrong. The original harness (HG9Z-15K867-A) had two wires that the replacement harness didn't. The grey and white wires were missing in the new harness. Turns out, those are for the active shutters, along with the common ground wire that the harness uses for everything. The 2018s may be different than the 2017s in that the active shutters are perhaps powered by a different harness? Don't know. There's no mention of the active shutters on this harness in any of the Ford parts literature - Only whether or not the car has fog no lights (HG9Z-15K867-A), fog lights but NO park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-C), or both fog lights and park assist / adaptive cruise control (HG9Z-15K867-H). The -F and -L harnesses are for the Fusion Sport, and not applicable here. Regardless, I knew I was up sh*t's creek without the active shutter wires (check engine lights galore if those don't work). So I just went for it. I knocked out the blocked pinouts (shown by the yellow arrow) in the two pin locations for the active shutter wires (red arrows): I carefully cut the white and grey wire out of the original harness and inserted it into the new harness, wrapping them with friction (NOT ELECTRICAL) tape. There was a lot of carnage of the original harness. I spliced in the ground wire for the active shutters to the common ground line on the harness: And heat shrank the junction before re-wrapping the harness: With the wiring sorted, it was on to the fog light grilles. Remove the blank bezels from the bumper cover just by pushing from the inside of the cover outwards: Here is the blank bezel with the correct fog lamp bezel: Remove the chrome bezel from the blank CAREFULLY. I ended up breaking a tab on each, and I was being pretty careful: Place the chrome trim onto the fog lamp bezel: To mount the fog lamps themselves, you must purchase a total of four "speed clips" with bolts, around M8 or M10 size judging by the holes in the fog lamp tabs. Mount the speed clips to the fog lamps themselves, and place the fog lights into the bumper cover BEFORE you re-mount the bezels. It works much easier this way. Use the locator tab on each of the assemblies and place the speed clips bolts on from the rear, through the bumper cover, into the speed clips on each side of the fog lamp assembly. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good picture of this process. Place the bezels back into the bumper cover, and the fog lamps will fit through and slightly protrude from the bezels. Remount the bumper cover, starting the three 10mm bolts (but do not tighten!) and T25 Torx bolts to hold the cover. Then, using the locator "christmas tree" style clips to hold the cover to the fenders, start the 8mm bolts on either side of the locator clips. Tighten ONLY after every bolt is started, being sure to line up the fenders and bumper covers properly. Replace the 7mm bolts on the underside of the bumper cover, plastic clips for the radiator cover, and tighten the 10mm / T25 bolts when finished. Use a plastic pry tool to work the headlamp switch out of place in the interior, pulling it out of the dashboard, disconnecting it from the harness. Plug the new switch in, and push into place until all four retaining tabs "click". Hit the ignition, and test them out! Hopefully this is helpful to those who want the OE fog light upgrade to an SE that didn't come with them. Also, if anyone has information on the appropriate harness for the active shutter controls, it would help out those who try this in the future instead of my having to Frankenstein the harness! Happy EVing!

These numbers are based on the usage reported by a "pay per kWh" Level 2 charging station at one of my sites. Started at "0%" and charged to full. Car is only a few weeks old, so it's still "learning", perhaps? It took 3.25kW for 2.5 hours, not counting that taper off in the last few minutes: Total power "delivered" was 7.01kWh. According to MyFord Mobile, capacity used on the way home (again, went back to "0%" before switching to hybrid mode) was 5.5kWh, so that yields only a 78% charging efficiency. Worse than expected. The parking garage was about 10°F warmer than outside (32°F per the picture), and the cooling fans were running while charging. The rate per kWh was ridiculous for this area, but I wanted to give it a shot. At home, Dominion VA Power charges: June-September: $0.11049/kWh October-May: $0.09557/kWh So my Level 2 charger at home costs me $.67 per "fill up" from "0%" to "100%". I go between 15 and 17 miles per charge due to the hilly terrain even with a 98-99% regenerative braking score, meaning the car costs me $0.044 / mile to operate. YMMV. Obviously. Edit: I installed the L2 charger myself, so it cost me the price of the charger ($470), the cost of 50' of 6/3 wire ($150), a 220V 40A breaker ($5), and some conduit ($2). I've never used the 110V charger.

Hey there. My name's Dan. I've owned Fords since the beginning, which for me was 1990. The wife's in a new Explorer. I also own a few other cars. My 2012 Focus Titanium Hatch was on its 6th clutch at 72k miles when I finally drew the line. I started the extremely long, infuriating 3 month process to have Ford buy it back under the terms of the Class Action Settlement for Focus / Fiestas with the dual-clutch automatic. They eventually cut me a check for over twice KBB on it, so it was worth it ? My local dealer had a cherry '17 Fusion Energi Titanium on the lot with 20k miles which they reserved, but the Ford RAV (Re-Acquired Vehicles) buyback process took so long that the dealer sold it out from under me. To make up for the mistake, they found me a new Ruby Red '18 SE Luxury Energi and transferred it up to me for free. I took delivery two weeks ago today. I installed a Webasto Ford-branded Level 2 charging station outside my garage to charge up "Mr. Fusion", as my son calls it, by tapping a new 40A breaker off my 220V garage subpanel originally for my welders / plasma cutter. I'm a DIY kinda guy. I'm also an old Pontiac guy. I restored a '64 Pontiac Catalina (visible in the corner of the pic of the charging station) and have owned a 2006 GTO since new, but that's not relevant here. Haven't put gas in it yet, still over 5/8 tank with 300 miles clocked. About 17 miles per charge, but there are a decent number of hills between me and work. Like the new MyFord Mobile app and Sync 3, but wish they had a port for Tizen to my Gear S3 instead of only just to WearOS devices. First projects on the list are: All-weather floor mats, sunshade, OE fog lights, and maybe a spoiler? Haven't decided yet! Anyway, hey there! Dan