breeves002

Yes I get those. I do not get the notification from MFM that says I may want to plug in since I'm at a saved charge location. We have a single car garage and of course the Fusion gets the driveway not the garage and I usually leave second. So when the fusion gets moved in the morning (not by me) I get a notification from MFM saying I may want to plug it in then... Really odd behavior. Maybe I should try figuring out how to reset all that. Maybe I should just get up early and see what its doing if it does it again tomorrow. Just sucks because it ruins my fuel economy on my drive to work.... Normally I can get to work on all electric.

I've had this happen 3 times now... I have a cmax energi and fusion energi. One gets the L2 charger one gets the L1. Cmax rarely uses value charge but I always use it with the Fusion. Two nights in a row I've come out to a car that didn't charge in the morning. Doesn't make any sense. I have it set to value charge at home because I set the profile up on the website. It worked fine for the past month. I thought maybe I didn't plug the L1 charger in all the way so I used the L2 last night. Same problem. Anyone else had this happen? Looks like everything is setup correctly for value charging in MFM and on the screen in the car. I only value charge for two reasons...one keep the SoC low in the summer when the battery is really hot to increase life, or two to warm the bat temp up in the winter before driving to get more range...so its not necessary, my electricity prices are the same 24hrs a day...but would be nice if it worked.

12v batteries with issues do weird things. Happens in all gas cars too. You can see if there is a load not turning off too with a DC clamp meter if you have one. Battery can be tested by most parts stores for free too so you don't need to buy a tester online.

Ignore what the computer says. Its a computer trying to guess your range based on different factors. The range is only guess by looking at your gas tank and average MPG while in hybird mode. If you plug in often your range will change I average 2000+ miles per tank of gas because I plug in at home and at work and usually don't take the car on long drives. Therefore I don't use much gas. However on hybrid mode it really depends how fast you drive. You can get 32mpg if you drive 80+mph on the highway. Its pretty bad when going that fast. However if you keep it under 70mph you'll see over 40mpg on the highway. I don't think there is anything wrong with your car. Calculate your MPG manually by resetting the trip when you fill up and then the next time you fill up divide the miles driven on that tank over the gallons added to the car. You need to keep it in EV Later mode the whole time so either exhaust the battery and don't plug it in or just set to EV later every time you get into the car. See what your real MPG is then. If you have not plugged in and spent a lot of highway miles over 70mph on a tank of gas expect it to be well under 40mpg. If you're not hard on the gas pedal and do a lot of city or lower speed highway driving you can expect over 40mpg on hybrid. Adding in full charges adds a lot to your MPG. Keep in mind too that at 80mph on EV Now you won't even get 20 miles to a charge.

Just a note on this.... I've seen other 120v EVSEs that have a built in current adjustment. Usually 12A/6A. I've also seen some that can do 16A @120v on a 20A circuit. Most EVSEs can have the current lowered with jumper settings. I have a Siemens one at my office and GE one at home. Both have jumper settings to lower the current. Wonder if the battery charger would take more then 12A @ 120V?

I don't think the charger really puts that much heat into the battery from what I've witnessed. The charger module itself generates quite a bit of heat because its only about 90% efficient. So you're getting 300W+ lost as heat. Thats likely most of the heat. If you think about it only 11A of current approx go into the battery when charging at 3.3kW. If you compare, the motor can pull around 200A at full electric throttle and regen about 120A. Just to maintain 45mph flat pulls roughly 50A! That generates WAY more heat then the charging at 11A. After I drive 23 miles to work in 100 degree weather the HVB is at about 110ºF if it has been sitting all night. I use value charge to let the charge complete around 7am and I leave at 9am. Going home its way too hot and the motor starts kicking in after the first 3-5 miles of my drive home when the HVB hits 113ºF or so. I wish they would run the battery fan while the car was plugged in and not charging. Keeping the HVB cooler would really help when you go to drive later. Just sitting in the heat after the battery is already hot from driving does not help...airflow would help that. I've noticed it will run the fan if its set to value charge and waiting to charge BUT it won't suck air from the outside. Only from the trunk. I've been thinking about making a PWM controller to run the fan the way I want it and just feedingback what the BECM expects the cooling fan to be at. Just gotta be able to open that door too to allow air in from the inlet behind the bumper. If I ever have the time to do it I'll happily sell some to whoever wants better battery cooling. One other note. It may exhaust into the trunk but there are flaps in the trunk to allow air to exit. If there weren't it wouldn't be able to suck any air in from the outside.

Little more testing thismorning. In EV now mode/auto with motor off the empower display is linear with the engage electric use bar until the second bar. The second to third bar on empower is 50-100% on the engage. I didn't connect FORScan to look at the actual current usage at each bar but I'll do that on the way home if I remember.

Yeah I didn't think charging generates much heat in comparison to driving. I have no issues with FORScan. I just open the app on the phone and hit connect. Then it has my dashboard saved and I just hit play and it has data from the BECM right then and there. First time connecting and setup takes a little while but its a breeze after that.

I don't remember which is which. On the one that has the motor and battery: You can max the battery graph out and there is still more acceleration past that. My guess is they didn't change the programming from the hybrids since the energi has a little more oomph. The other graph which shows just one bar I think is more accurate. I've found that it isn't linear. About the second line is 50A current but the 4th or 5th line (before auto mode would kick the motor in) is nearly 200A of current. You can measure the wattage yourself. The BECM outputs the current (A) and voltage of the battery pack. FORScan or Torque are good ways to do this.

I use an OBDLink MX and FORScan lite with an old android phone I have to view the HVB temp and voltage, current, fan speed, etc. The fan that sucks air from the parcel shelf and dumps behind the rear seat is the one for the charger I thought. Doesn't the HVB fan pull air from behind the rear bumper and dump it out the side of the car? To be honest I don't think charging generates that much heat. Maybe a little more when you get near the end of the charge. The current from driving/regen generates so much more.

Here in St. Louis its been nearly 100 degrees the past few days. I drive EV Now to work and use almost 100% of the plug in battery. Its a 22.5 mile drive. I plug into L2 there and sometimes will go get lunch sometimes I won't drive it until I go home around 6pm. Getting out of work requires me going up a very big hill which uses quite a bit of energy and generates a lot of battery heat. I notice the motor kicks on because of battery heat when its this hot out on my drive home. With FORScan I see that it kicks the motor on around 113ºF to 115ºF. I'm honestly really annoyed at the HVB fan operation. Until the battery gets over around 110ºF it doesn't run at full speed when stopped. It will slow way down. I should be able to manually control it in FORScan but it didn't work correctly for me. I need to email them. I kind of want to make a PWM controller with thermistor on it so I can make that fan run at a higher speed even when its commanded lower in high ambient temps. It really annoys me that it doesn't run when the battery is fully charged but its still plugged in. On my Focus Electric it would run the ac and battery cooling (liquid cooled) as long as it was plugged in. Though It tried to keep that battery down around 90ºF at all times. Keep in mind that even when its cooler out the battery will generate a TON of heat. Accelerating at max power pulls around 200A of current. 200A is a TON of energy! Like 60kW! That will generate a ton of heat. Pre conditioning the car will also heat up the battery more. The AC can pull more energy then the 220v charger can supply when its really trying to cool the car off. To put 200A into perspective, the 220v L2 3.3kW chargers will put only about 11A into the battery. Regen can put about 100A or so back into the battery too with braking. Which also generates a ton of heat. Not having a liquid cooled battery means it takes a lot longer to cool off. Fords low battery fan speed programming and keeping the fan off when its not charging but plugged in keeps it from cooling off as much.