16vjohn

My 2013 Energi has 150k on it now. In mild weather, I can still go 18 highway miles at 70mph without any issue. Back when COVID first hit and I never left town, I was getting upwards of 25 miles in the city. For another data point there's a guy on one of the Facebook groups that has a verified 400k+ on his Energi and uses it for daily Uber and food delivery, he hasn't discussed degradation as much though. I will say that for me, it's the chassis that's starting to show age. Creaking bushings, softer shocks, alignment seems to get more out of whack at annual inspection with each passing year. The drivetrain is solid, and since you have the Energi model, the 2013-14 HF-35 bearing problem isn't really an issue on your 13. The 19 represents a lot of what Ford has learned over the years. I think you can pretty well expect the 19 to do better than your 13 in these categories. Jsamp and I have gotten into it in here before ? about battery usage and kindness. My opinion is that the car lives to serve me and that if I ever arrive home with power leftover in the battery, then you're doing it wrong. If you bought a plugin to displace gasoline usage, then you should use it as such. My battery is doing just fine, but at 150k, the car really owes me nothing at this point. Edit: Oh, and to address your question... Look at used prices for other 2019 Energi. In theory the residual price should pretty closely reflect the buyout price. I got mine for a steal because it had some minor damage to the front that fixed myself... saved me thousands off the price of the car. If your lease buyout is pretty close to the market, then you should buy it. I have no doubt you'll get 10 years out of it if you can be patient that long. I hope to be driving a mainstream BEV in 5 years or less though.

I also concur. Many call it the "guess-o-meter". Your car will do "26 miles" in ideal conditions, which means mild weather at reasonable speeds. If you have L2 charging, try preconditioning the car before you leave the house, that helps a lot. In regards to heat -- I live in Utah where the temperatures over the last month have been 90-100+ degrees. I use EV mode everywhere, including driving 70mph on the highway until depleted. Only once this year have I hit the "engine enabled for system performance", indicating the battery temperature had surpassed 106F and this was on a day where I charged it fully three times with 240v L2. Last year when I was charging at work during the day in a hot parking lot, I'd get that message every day. If you can park your car in the shade most of the day, the ambient temperatures, at least for me anecdotally, don't seem to make much of a difference. Parking in the hot sun absolutely will heat soak the entire interior of the car and the battery won't get a chance to cool down, even overnight. This is an unpopular opinion here and I've discussed at length in other threads, but I still get 15-20 EV miles on the highway and 20-25 miles in the city on my 7 year old battery with 140k.

Pull codes to get a better idea of what happened. Time for a visit to the Ford dealer... your hybrid parts are probably still under warranty.

I test drove a 2016 Energi Platinum with a power adjust steering wheel. It also had a stitched leather dashboard. Too bad it was maroon or I would have gotten it. Had an extreme geriatric vibe. Like Murphy, I adjusted mine once and left it alone. For the power outlet, My 2013 Energi Titantium has one and my 2016 Energi SE "With Luxury" has one.

Probably too little too late, but you need the transfer shaft kit, which is available everywhere. Google: FG9Z-7H348-G. I suspect you could also find just a new bearing, but ford doesn't sell that separately, so who knows if you could get it perfect and correct. The Energi version of the HF35 has some differences. The biggest difference is the auxiliary fluid pump. The aluminum castings are exactly the same, but the hybrid HF35 doesn't have the hole machined out to accept the auxiliary fluid pump return line. I suspect you could probably reuse the casing from the Energi transmission housing on a salvage hybrid HF35 transmission, but that'd be extremely hacky, I'm doubt anybody has ever done it considering how much more rare the Energi model is compared to the hybrid. Also, according to that TSB, the transfer shaft kit is different for the hybrid, but I suspect this has to do with gear ratios. Again, the transmission controller is going to be expecting certain RPMs for the different gear ratio of the Energi model and would most likely throw a wash of codes if it worked at all. I suppose it's possible you could install the Energi transfer shaft kit in a hybrid transmission, but I doubt anybody has ever done that. I have a 2013 Energi... if I ever have trouble with the gearbox, I'll probably order a hybrid gearbox and try to adapt it just for fun. Good luck. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148717-9999.pdf

Check out TSB: 16-0050. Looks like they'll reprogram the PCM to solve the issue.

If you've got nothing, no power to anything, you're probably looking at a main fuse which would be under the hood on the right side of the engine bay. As an FYI, I've plugged my car in while it's on before without issue. Public charger while allowing the AC and radio to continue functioning.

Kmart: The charger is inside the car, so you're pulling 120v at XX amps through the receptacle, through the charger cable, thorugh the J1772 port, through the wiring in the car to the onboard charger. From what you describe, it still sounds like an overheat to me. I'd be curious what kind of voltage drop you observe on that receptacle when the car is charging. Anything below 105-110v and things are going to heat up. I'd suspect there to be a check engine light or DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) stored if something on the car side was failing. Look into getting an ELM327 device and installing FORScan on your Windows laptop. Or... just take it to the dealer since that should qualify for warranty diagnostics. Side note: try a different charger if you have access to one, or go find a public charger.

Bad (or going bad) 12v battery, loose wires, or bad DC to DC converter. It's most likely a bad battery though, especially if it's more then 4 or 5 years old. Any corrosion/build-up on the 12v battery terminals?

From the shop manual (below). There are 12 different tests to pinpoint the issue. Most of them allude to the HV cables needing to be replaced, or a bad connection between them somewhere. To me, this does not sound like an expensive repair and at the least is worth paying for a proper diagnostic test. Good luck. With the ignition in the ON position and the engine running or OFF (the engine must have run at least once after the ignition was cycled to ON), the BECM (battery energy control module) monitors the electrical isolation (leakage resistance) between the high-voltage system and the vehicle chassis. A resistance value of less than 195,000 ohms is a mild failure. There are 2 types of failures. A mild or severe fault will illuminate the stop safely hazard (red triangle) warning indicator. The vehicle will not start at the next ignition cycle for a severe fault with a resistance value of less than 39,000 ohms. The normal resistance value is between 950,000-1,330,000+ ohms. Possible Sources - Moisture/water penetration of high-voltage connectors - High Voltage Battery cables - Direct Current/Direct Current (DC/DC) converter control module - ACCM (air conditioning control module) - High Voltage Battery - Electronically Controlled Continuously Variable Transmission (eCVT) - SOBDMC (hybrid powertrain control module) - Cabin Coolant Heater - SOBDM (secondary on-board diagnostic control module A)

A jump start should allow the car to turn on, even if the 12v is completely toast. I agree with Murphy, test the voltage. It might not be a bad idea to remove the battery and have it tested and/or use an external charger. Though likd was mentioned, if it's the original battery, it probably needs to be replaced anyway.

The spare tire for a second gen Ford escape fits the FFE well. It's about the same height as the full size tire. I got one at the local LKQ for about 60 bucks.

I'm in L almost exclusively.

Ok, some full disclosure is needed it sounds like. I wish I knew more about the first 68,000 miles of this car's life with the first owner. If foggy memory serves, I seem to recall having no issue going ~20 to 21 miles in mild weather with no climate control. Perhaps this would imply the car did many more ICE miles than EV miles from mile 1 to 68,000. When I first got the car, I was a Torque Pro user and I could never figure out the PIDs thing. So I have no basis for comparison in how it's degraded while I've owned it and I don't have a lot of data to suggest why the battery is the way that it is. Really, I figured the car would be well-nigh worn out before the battery was a major concern. So like all my other cars, this car is a mule. I load the miles on it like crazy and it lives to serve me. I believe the car probably started out in California. It's been in Utah since I've owned it. Winters are very cold and summers are very hot. Ambient temperatures From June to August can be well over 90F. When I have to park it in the hot parking lot at work, it soaks up a lot of heat. I no longer charge it at work in the summer because the battery would get so hot that I wouldn't even be able to use pure EV mode on the way home. I charge it in the evenings and deplete it completely on my drive in to work. So, the battery has a chance to cool down during the day right now. At home, it's parked in a garage that's usually much cooler than ambient temperature. Bottom line, this isn't Phoenix, but it does get pretty hot. As far as uncaring treatment, my only intent was to tell a potential new buyer that you shouldn't spend a lot of time worry about battery preservation. Let the car do it's thing and displace as much gasoline as you possibly can. As far as how I treat it, and in addition to my previous comments, I don't necessarily go out of my way to abuse the battery. Of course I don't leave it at 100% for days on end. Of course I pay attention to temperatures and don't needlessly cook the HVB. However, the car lives to serve me and I want to extract as much value out of the expensive hybrid components as quickly as I possibly can. If the goal were money savings, it's hard to argue with the total cost of ownership of a manual transmission Corolla, a 2007-2014 Jetta TDI, or even a duratech Fusion SE. If you're deferring battery utilization to make it last longer, then I hope you have other boxes to check besides pure economics. For me, it absolutely is an economic thing, but also pollution displacement, and pure EV when I want it to be. That, and we all agree the Fusion is a handsome devil and nicely equipped for the money. Lastly, I just sold my Model 3 and decided to start driving this more again and being active in the boards again. It's not my intent to come in here like I own the place. I hope to provide reasonable advice with at least some data or experience to back it up. Look forward to many more years here. It's also nice to know that in a few years I'll be able to get a new FFE (FFPHEV?) for under $15k. ? Cheers.

If there was any hostility in my tone, I apologize up front. We're all on the same team. I'm certainly not saying you're wrong. What I am saying is that while you can make it last longer, I don't think the return is worth the effort. Now that's purely subjective of course. If you get satisfaction from hypermiling, analyzing battery statistics, beating the averages, and meticulous maintenance, I totally get it. These are VERY nerdy cars and I think you kind of have to be nerdy about it to full understand just why they are so good and why they have a cult following. Perhaps my point is better illustrated in this way. If you've come from a boringly reliable Prius, to then suggest someone has to pay so much attention to battery preservation before they even buy a FFE, sets a certain narrative that highlights the worst part (in my opinion) about this car... Which is the batter capacity. Nobody that has ever owned this car wishes it had a smaller battery. For someone looking at Teslas and Mitsu, and will be repulsed every time the gas engine turns on in your 50-mile commute, I just don't think it's good advice for a perspective buyer to imply that they should effectively defer battery utilization to make it last marginally longer. Lastly, I'm curious to know to just what extent you hypermile. If you're getting 28 miles from ~5.6kWh, you're doing roughly ~200wH/mi, which is more efficient than a RWD Model 3, which has an insanely efficient permanent magnet motor and a much lower drag coefficient. Very impressive. The takeaway from this is undoubtedly subjective like I said before. We're all different, and we're all looking for something different from our cars, and that's ok. For the benefit of data collection, my lifetime EV miles according to the instrument panel is 49,200 miles and FORScan says the estimated HVB capacity at full charge is 6.546kWh