jj2me

Here is a quick-and-dirty Google Sheets calculator for the pump price break even point, given your particular kWh price. Please only change column B entries, rows 3 through 12. (kWh/100 mi. = 35 is the design spec, I don't know when or how that should be altered.) Typically you would only set the Charge efficiency percentage to 72 for Level 1 charging, or 80 for Level 2 charging. You might want to change the Hybrid mpg to whatever you usually get for the type of driving you're comparing. For example, using 42 hybrid mpg, a $6.00/gal. pump price compares to a kWh charge of $0.295 using a L1 charger, and $0.325 using a L2 charger Changing to 38 hybrid mpg, we get comparable kWh costs of $0.325 for L1 and $0.36 for L2. The average CA cost of electricity of $0.3276 kWh.

If plugging in is not a requirement, i.e., if DJ Will is looking at this Energi mainly because he's offered a great price for a car in great shape, won't an Energi with a badly degraded battery perform just like a Fusion Hybrid if he never plugs in? Seems like it should, but I'm not sure if there's some downfall.

I had great luck with the 12V AGM battery replacement as described in this post. I commented on my experience a few posts later.

The chart in this tweet makes it look bad for Ford's and GM's survival. And that's before the new union contract eats into margins. https://twitter.com/carlquintanilla/status/1729458525280075797?t=1xBubD_-AVMdhV5RbGwd8w&s=19 I also heard a description of the problem of updates, that the legacy manufacturers continue using outside parts suppliers, but now with software everywhere, those auto manufacturers don't have control over all the code that may need to be changed, unlike Tesla who has control of all their parts manufacturing, and software.

Re-tested today, ~73°, windows rolled up, no accessories running. Oct. 2023, 34K miles, 5.4 kWh, 25.7 miles June 2021, 27K miles: 5.5 kWh, 27.4 miles June 2017, 10.5K miles: 5.5 kWh, 26.3 miles I'm a L1 charger (about to change, as I installed a L2 at the house I'm moving to) who aims for an 80% charge, and I never drive in EV or Auto above ~50 mph.

I have a 2017 and had the 12V battery problem (it was replaced early, like a bit over a year after its build date. It had no discernable cause like you listed, and a new battery fixed the problem and lasted 4 or 5 years. Could many of the 2017s been mistreated as far as their 12V batteries, before purchase? Mine was bought as a CPO from a dealer, with all indications it was a fleet car. There were a lot of 2017 fleet cars on the market. Maybe plating occurred if there was intermittent use by the fleet owners where the 12V discharged completely. Similarly, maybe Hermasillo-manufactured cars like mine were mistreated where they were left to discharge often before sale. Maybe there were too many 2017s built for the demand and sat on dealer lots and discharged the smaller capacity (compared to ICE cars) 12V often. Maybe 2017s or some subset had some fault that continued to discharge the 12V (e.g., CD player running constantly, or any of what you listed) that got fixed before sale, and we owners can't trace the cause because we never saw the fault. Things like this fit with my experience of having no concomitant problem, just needing a new battery.

My 2017 intermittently does the same, I think it has occurred only at times when I overfill the trunk, and just one or two times did it also glitch for a few backups after I remove the overfull condition. I haven't gotten around to looking at the problem.

Good point. My bad, failed to think of that. Recalculating, using jsamp's figures and your 5.6 kWh total real capacity, I get: 30% (5.6) real = 3.5% dash 50% (5.6) real = 36% dash 70% (5.6) real = 67% dash

1.1 kWh and the smaller hybrid battery icon showing about 1/3 full was the lowest I had observed on a long stretch in hybrid mode. At that point, the FFE would replenish the HVB a bit via the ICE. The 1.1 kWh was according to PID BAT_TO_EMPTY_ESTIM. That was with a very good HVB with 5.5 kWh usable.

Thanks much. I must have mentally written off that screen due to never using value charging (it's an outdoor car).

I may not be understanding those figures of 0%, 60%, and 25%. If I understand what you're saying, it's that you want to keep your battery charge between 30% and 70% of real capacity, generally centering on 50%, which would be .3 x 7.6 kWh = 2.28 kWh .7 x 7.6 kWh = 5.32 kWh .5 x 7.6 kWh = 3.8 kWh The dash display and SoC PID both read 0% at 1.5 kWh or less and 100% at 7.1 kWh (car protects from charge level being more than 7.1 kWh by enforcing a 0.5 kWh safety buffer). Assuming the increments in percentage on the dash display/PID are linear wrt kWh, then each percentage point = .056 kWh (5.6 kWh/100). The 30% real of 2.28 kWh has a corresponding dash display of 14% ( (2.28 - 1.5) / .056 ). The 70% real of 5.32 kWh has a corresponding dash display of 68% ( (5.32 - 1.5) / .056 ). The 50% real of 3.8 kWh has a corresponding dash display of 41% ( (3.8 - 1.5) / .056 ). My 2017 dashboard display doesn't show percentage of charge except upon startup. To get a constant reading I need to plug in an OBDII dongle and monitor the SoC PID.

The Ford Fusion forum is what you want. The Energi (addressed in this forum) has a different engine, a 2.0L Atkinson-cycle engine.

Best to put a trickle charger, like a Battery Tender, on the 12V if you have a garage. A less desirable option is to disconnect the 12V (troublesome, reconnecting and having the engine relearn). If you have an AGM 12V battery (more resilient to battery depletion), you could do nothing. I've gone a week of non-use on a lead-acid 12V battery and it started right up, and that battery lasted 5 years.

https://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/4751-2017-fusion-energi-dead-battery-issues/?do=findComment&comment=35166

Honk back at a white 2017 you see around Red Bank, which'll be envious of your 2019's greater range. EDIT: Never mind. I see from another post you're in New England, not near that dealer named on the plates.