fconway

I recently was hit lightly from behind while I was parked, which slightly raised the trunk. I saw the problem, but didn't think much of it. Two months later I got the check engine light, which said the HVB cooling system had failed. sure enough, neither of the fans were working. I pulled the trunk apart, and the fix seemed simple. I then checked the warrantee, which is 8 years. Mine is a 2017, so i called ford and found out i had one month left on the HVB system, so I took the car into ford service. they identified the problem i had, which was the fans were failed. I also asked them to check the battery to ensure i still had the guaranteed 80% life (which I knew I did not have, I only get 14 miles per charge). They determined the fans had failed due to the water infiltration, so it wasn't Ford's problem. They then stated that because the fans had failed, the guarantee was void, and ford was not responsible for the weak battery. now my battery will charge to 14 miles, but self discharges when i unplug it over the course of 4 or 5 hours. Basically i have a battery that was under warrantee, and failed, but Ford used my water infiltration issue to declare it not their problem. My lesson learned is I should have just replaced the fans myself, not involving Ford at all, then presented the car for the battery check, which would have revealed the failing battery. Now I'm on the hook for the $5000 repair. Sigh.

I had the same problem. Ford refused to replace under warrantee, saying water infiltration caused the issue. my trunk had been lightly hit from behind while i was parked, which caused the trunk to be slightly raised, allowing water to come in. I just physically pulled the trunk back into place, which seems to have fixed the problem. (what a ridiculous design. it looks good, but the trunk is flush with the bumper). Ford said it would cost $2700 to replace the two fans plus the dump gate to put the hot air out of the trunk.... lol. the parts were $400 and it only took 2 hours to fix. Ford service is a joke.

The ford dealer basically said he wasn't able to get the goop cleaned out well enough to be sure the patch would be effective. Honestly it felt like BS, but I'm not a tire guy at all so I didn't have a leg to stand on. My only option was to take the car to another tire place, but with no spare i'd have to tow it. Same with the sensor, Since i'm not a mechanic, how do i argue that the sensor doesn't work.

Its an interesting thing, I've gotten used to the grown up world, where i just take things in to get repaired. When i was younger i'd do all my own maintenance, I've gotten out of the habit. This is good advice, i might have to just carry around a repair kit and fix the darn hole myself going forward. losing a tire with 15,000 miles on it due to the fix a flat solution is crazy.

I've never had a car without a spare before this one. I recently drove over a piece of metal and punched a small hole in my tire. I used the ford supplied inflator and the fix a flat goop in that inflator to get back on the road. A week later (i know, ford says not to wait this long), i went to the ford dealer to get the puncture fixed properly. well, they reported that the fix a flat solution made the repair imposible. so, $200 for a new tire. then, they reported that the fix-a-flat solution (supplied by ford) had rendered the tire pressure sensor inoperative ($100). Lesson learned? just get the car towed to the shop, it'll be far cheaper. (or maybe i just got taken by the ford service department, who knows).

I'm wondering if something is wrong with your car. Even in hybrid mode (main portion of the battery depleted), i still have plenty of torque right up to 80mph. You are correct that the engine alone is a slug, but the electric motor really pulls hard (enough), and the car stores enough electricity for a couple pulls automatically (if you deplete the battery it will start aggressively recharging from the engine). The only time the car should feel sluggish is if you pull a couple of full throttle runs in quick succession, and if you do that regularly you bought the wrong car.

I burned the end that plugs into the charging block (not the house side, that is weather protected), and the reason it failed is that it was not protected from rain in any way, its just being held off the ground, but still open to the weather. i cut off the end of the charger, and the end of the extension cord, and i put on a water tight connection. I looked at the cord, and it is a 10 gauge, not 12. Do not do this with a smaller cord under any circumstances. And i acknowledge that using the cord is not especially wise. but i have on-street parking and I cant build a proper charge point in the tree-lawn ( i am seeking a variance from the city, but the bureaucracy grinds slow and fine). I bought the car used, and the charger plug end was already partially melted when i bought it. i should have replaced the plug end from the start, but it worked, so i went with it. the extension cord end didn't melt at all (some light scorching only), it was entirely the ford end of the connection.

Hi and welcome. I have a 2017 energi, and so far its been fantastic. On gas i average about 43 mpg, speed depending. I still get 23 miles electric range in the summer. In the winter i get about 12 miles, be aware that the cold and the cars heater are brutal to the battery. Down in Memphis you shouldn't be quite as cold as we are here in Saint Louis. I charge my Energi using a 100' extension cord. i bought a 12 guage cord. I've been charging it this way for a year. the cord gets very slightly warm. Mine is exposed to the rain, and i HAVE melted the plug ends (both on the cord and the charger). I removed the damaged ends and put on a good quality waterproof plug end, we'll see how that goes. I'm sure what i'm doing is wrong, a risk, etc. But so far I haven't burned the house down (!!!). (the plug in surround at the house is entirely metal, and is pretty weatherproof). Welcome to the group. and enjoy the car.

hit the gas, or hit the 'resume' button on the wheel and the car will resume right away. i find the system doesn't work great in stop and go, it goes too hard, and stops to hard. if you set it to the 'softer' settings it leaves too big a gap, and you become a racing pylon with everyone zipping around you. On the Freeway it is fantastic.

1988 - 1995 --'77 toyota celica, what a car! '1995 - 1997 -- 95 toyota paseo (new), crashed it 1997 - 2007 -- '96 nissan sentra SE-R 2000 - 2005 -- '90 Kawasaki ninja 600S (bought crashed, replaced the forks and ripped off all the fairings, ran it as a hoodlum bike) 2001 -- ''69 Toyota FJ-40 Landcruiser (was daily driver for a couple years, still sitting in the garage, rusting to dust) (8 mpg!) 2007 - 2017 -- '00 Chevy silverado (15 mpg!) '17 FFE (used, 8000 miles) Thanks for the memories!

surely you havent worn out the breaks? i assume due to the regen the breaks are going to last the life of the car! I can't help with PNs, but just walk into the parts department at the dealer and they will give them to you.

I don't know about stress on the battery, but i will say, pre-heating my car in the winter uses 1/4 of its available battery (at 9 out of 13 miles when i get in) in the winter, pre-cooling my car, even in 100 degree weather uses maybe 5%.... But its easier to heat a battery than to cool it...

HI, Whenever i hit the EV button, my left display switches to 'miles per full charge'. that is a nice display, but i want to stay on the empower screen. It annoys me to death to have to switch back every time.... Is there a setting to disable this 'helpful' feature? Please tell me the answer is yes... .and thanks!

The blackout of the chrome trim looks really fantastic. if you search this forum you can see some examples, basically careful painting with black plasti-dip. I dislike the chrome on the '17 (i love the earlier versions), so next spring i will be performing this modification. Bigger wheels always look better, but beyond the 18's the ride suffers (IMHO).

Welcome to winter! I've gone from 22 miles per charge to 15. It is standard, but disconcerting.