Davidoo

Sorry, but I don't buy this. This supposed cable in the engine compartment somehow only affects the left side of your head? How is that cable any closer to the left side of your head than the other parts of your head or body? Do you also think 5G cell towers caused Covid-19?

I'm not going to bash Teslas as I think they look great and are excellent vehicles. I have thought about getting one, but would only do it if I had 2 cars. I go on lots of long (thousands of miles) road trips. I just don't ever want to worry about where I'm going to charge and how long I'll have to wait. That's why I got the Energi. Most weeks just going to work and back my engine never starts, but when I decide to drive from AZ to WY, IN or FL, I can do it in confidence.

I have a 2017 Energi and all I do to hold the memory is push the 1 or 2 button as you say, and when it beeps it is saved. I've never had to use the key fob to save it. I guess I didn't know you could set it by the 2 fobs. I don't see how that would work. What if both fobs are in the car? How does it know which one to set it to?

My shifter rotary dial lights when charging too. Always thought it was normal.

I carry a 10ga 25 ft cord that is rated at 20 amps and it works fine. With that gauge it doesn't even get warm and therefore no problems. I use it when going to relatives to plugin and steal their power whenever I can.

Good timing on updating this thread. I just changed my cabin air filter on my 17 Energi. Wow, talk about ridiculous. And yes, the placement of the screw on the bottom left is outrageous. Definitely a dealer item for most people. I had to use a socket wrench with one of those swivels on it unless I wanted to completely lay down and put my back in a bad position.

I'm in Phoenix and my 2017 took a big hit the last 2 summers. I'm lucky to get 4.0 out of mine. Still, in the cooler months without AC I can get 27 or 28 miles from a charge.

The 120 Volt convenience outlet was in my 2011 and is also in my current 2017 Energi. I don't think they discontinued it, but maybe the newer owners can verify.

I only get about 3.9 KWh out of my 2017 Energi with only 26,000 miles on it. The Phoenix heat took its toll quickly. I didn't know any better and charged it multiple times a day for the first year, even when it was 110+ degrees outside. Still, I can get 25 or more EV miles per day, but used to get over 30.

I have a 2017 FFE and recently rotated the tires myself. I had a flat tire a while ago that the dealer replaced. I was able to change them all ok, except when I tried to use my 19mm socket with torque wrench on the tire the dealer changed, the wrench would barely fit. I had to lightly pound the wrench onto the nut with a rubber hammer and finally got them. I went to the dealer and bought some replacements. They said they are aware of the problem and it happens when they put the air wrench on it. If that is the case, they should give replacements for free and do a recall. I would also be very careful in getting replacements from the auto parts store or online cheap. These are designed for the wheels on the car with the proper taper angle and hardness of the metal. I wouldn't put anything back on them I didn't get at the dealer.

Yes, I've had the issue in 2 different Fusions. First, I had a 2011 Hybrid and it made that noise. They said one of the front axles (probably called a half-shaft) was cracked. They fixed it and I never had the problem again. Drove the car probably another 30,000 miles and never heard the noise again. I traded that car with 100K miles in December 2016 for a 2017 Energi. After around 22,000 miles which occurred this year in April, I started hearing the noise in this vehicle. They said they checked and it wasn't the half-shaft this time. They kept my car and put me in a rental over a month and eventually installed a new transmission because they couldn't find what was causing it. I was shocked once during the repair as I had to go to the dealership to change cars they had given me, and I saw my car and the entire engine was out of the car. I finally got the car back and the noise was gone. Unfortunately, after about a week, the same clicking/ticking noise came back just as before. I haven't even gone back to the dealership. It drives fine and I just don't want to go through it again. My factory warranty is good through December of this year, plus I have the extended warranty as well. I'm beginning to think they just make this noise and maybe nothing is wrong. I will say throughout the time they had my car they took care of me with a rental or loaner the whole time. I bet they spend $10,000 or more. I just haven't felt like calling them to let them know it is making the same noise again. Mine is the same as yours as it only makes the noise when I first push on the accelerator, or let off of it. I don't have a constant noise like the video.

I have a 2017 Energi and the Phoenix heat has done a number on my battery. My last few tests of the KW usage based on driving in EV mode to when the car switches to hybrid mode is around 4.1 to 4.2 KWh. I only have 24,000 miles on the car. It was well over 5 KWh when I first got the car in 2016. The first year, I charged it every day, even when 115 degrees, sometimes twice a day. The dealer didn't tell me anything about how to care for the battery, and what I read in the manual didn't either. It just said use it like a gas tank and refill and charge whenever you want....so I did. Still, even with that reduction, I get about 20 to 22 miles out of a charge. My commute to work is about 8 miles and I always make it there and back, even including a mile or so at lunch, without the engine starting.

I think the better option would be to stay on DST all year. We are already on it almost 8 months. I too live in AZ and like that we don't change, but I wold prefer everyone else stay on DST so we remain on Pacific Time all year.

I guarantee you that sticker is somewhere to be seen laying under the driver's side dash in the fuse box area. On my 2017 it is easy to see, but on my 2011 it was above the steering column......unless someone took it off for some reason.

You can always find the original factory keypad code on any Ford vehicle by laying down under the steering wheel on the floor and looking upwards under the dash near the steering column. A flashlight or cell phone light helps. The 5 digit code will be displayed on a sticker. Once you have that, you can delete any other secondary codes entered, and enter a new one of your own if you want.