rowekmr

I ended up selling the 2014 Energi to someone who didn't mind the range issues and since acquired another project a 2013 C-Max Energi with a noisy transmission. I just found a 2016 transmission for it and just happened to ask them do they have any HV batteries and they have 2. I also have recently been given back a 2013 Fusion Energi I had got in 2016 and given my parents in in FL in 2017 and its range is now pathetic (10-13) and was looking for any upgrades. Ironically I bought the Ford Premium Care bumper to bumper warranty but it seems it doesn't cover battery degradation and I'd like to get around 20 miles of EV range then I could drive to work and back without ICE operation. I know there's no huge ROI on the dollars spent but it would be more for my convenience and edifice. I might entertain upgrading HV batteries but haven't found one article on it so want to check on things before spending the money.

I am thinking of buying a newer battery for my 2013 Fusion Energi that gets 12-14 max with no heater (but cold temps). I obviously don't want another 2013 battery so could a low mile 2016 or 2017 battery work? Is it true they made changes to the battery in 2019 for more capacity?

What are some examples of battery failures that they have replaced HV batteries for? Is any of them something we can replicate at home?

Interesting old thread. Kinda brought me back to my school days listening to Mech Eng arguing with the Elec Eng lol. I try understand both points and I must say I am curious to try for myself.

WOW I learned a lot here. I have had 3 plug ins and didn't know about the L function. I am amazed at the skills and techniques you have figured out to maximize efficiency. I am looking to get a 4th one soon and will try the L. I would pre heat/cool and drive in Chicago cold winter with no heat and windows cracked to prevent fogging while I was dressed like I was in Antarctic and would squeeze efficiency to keep the gas engine from coming on during my 14 mile trip to/from work (would plug in at work). I laugh now that I think of it.

I had it replaced twice out of pocket one for a 2013 C-Max about 5 weeks ago and then recently a 2014 Fusion Titanium. Both times it was roughly $500 parts/labor. I contested the 5 year window on the C-Max and thought they had agreed to replace it only to find out that they were speaking 2 stories at once and wasting my time lol

Where is the L button or are you talking about the shift detent Lo? So you coasted down the mountain with L engage and the brake regeneration charged your HV back to full? If so how long did that take? There are no hills around me so I guess I can't try it myself lol

I sold car but the cheapest I saw on Ebay was $1500. More than a few were listed on there from salvage yards. I normally get my parts from car-parts.com but couldn't find HV battery so just looked on Ebay. I would like to know this too since Ford denied my battery warranty, I wouldn't mind putting in a different battery. How much do the batteries run at the salvage yard.

Sorry if I wasn't clear I would have my friend who is a body tech at Ford replace it. He said they wear special gloves and follow a procedure to remove batteries. I was more asking do the batteries interchange with no modifications meaning same size, same harness and will work without special Ford programming or not. My local dealer works on my hybrids and plug in but it appears they don't have a lot of experience so didn't ask them.

I had a no start condition after I dropped the car off to get a detail. They called me and said it wouldn't start so I brought my pocket size jump start battery because I knew the 12v battery was weak (went dead on me when I left radio on/engine off a few hours). When I arrived I found the electric seat switch on so I assumed they left them on while cleaning car and 12v battery went dead right? Well the jump would light up dash but no green car symbol. Had it towed to Ford and found the BECM module was bad. We believe they got water in battery tray and the BECM measures current going from battery to frame (leakage?) and blew to protect system. Module was $500 and several hours to replace it and new 12v battery and I was good to go. I know this is not your issue just saying it can be more than the 12v battery. Ford initially was saying it could be bad HV battery too but I told them I doubt it went bad in a few hours and told them to do thorough diagnosis. They pulled a few codes and the one I found info was related to the BECM and there was a service bulletin on it in a unrelated matter that helped me deduce what was the problem and what caused it (there was water in battery tray)

Interesting steep degradation curve the OP experiencing. I just sold a 2014 FFE with 149K that got about 11 miles a charge during late fall weather (prolly better in summer). I also had a C-Max with 130k that was still getting up to 19 a few weeks before that when the weather was milder.

In 2016 I bought a 2013 Ford Fusion Titanium Energi from Sneed Ford (who sells a lot of buy backs). It was for my dad and it was under a 1 yr/12k bumper to bumper warranty and the balance of the powertrain. I bought the PremiumCare for 5 years 75K on that started when I got it so he won't have any out of the pocket cost. Since it was a first year production loaded with expensive to repair/replace options I felt that the 2200 I spent was well worth the peace of mind. Ironically he didn't drive it that much and had no issues but I will get it back soon and will be able to enjoy what is left of the coverage. Thanks for the Flood Ford info. I checked online and only found 2 Ford dealers that sold online and picked the cheapest one (Lombard Ford?) and had Sneed price match them.

Hello As the title says I just got another one this time from auction. It was donated and sold through charity and listed as non running. I had to get it shipped to me and realized it was a non runner because the FOB battery was dead and the yard hands at auction couldn't figure out how to jump start it with a dead fob battery. A quick look on YT and I saw to put the FOB in a slot in console and we got car started and off of the transport trailer. I drove it a few times and only noticed dirty oil and fuel door inop. I have it in shop now for recalls and fuel door and wondered anything else on preventative maintenance that I should suggest?

I just got a 2014 Fusion Energi Titanium with 149k and the fuel door won't open from the console switch. I use the manual override cord in the trunk to release it. It throws codes P04C1 Fuel Fil Door Unlock Control Circuit Low so I will get it repaired since we have emission testing here (no CEL allowed). I sprayed WD40 inside the door and operated everything a few times to get it all lubricated and it still wouldn't open off of the button (but I could here it click) I took it to dealer they said wires chaffing. Anyone else heard of this issue before? They said they will repair the wiring and put some insulation/looming to prevent any future issues.

How difficult is it to replace the HV battery? Is it a plug in play or is there programming required? Which years are compatible? I just got a higher mile Energi (149K) and with the low price of batteries at salvage yards was thinking of getting a low mile one to replace.

Its single digit now going to below 0F tonight so I will see how it handles the frigid weather. The cabin gets warm but at the hottest setting the air coming from ducts isn't hot hot like most conventional systems.

It has 31K miles. I am currently avg 54 mpg on this first tankful. I drove home about 490 miles flying at about 75 mph but around home I plug up everytime I get and am cycling the systems to get as much efficiency as I can. The few times I drove to work (14 miles) I plugged in there also. Currently looking for a 220/240v cord for my 14-50 outlet on my house to get faster recharges and use it for more errand running.

Oh sorry I got a 2013 Titanium

Thanks Last night instead of going EV until battery depletes and engine comes one all without heat I tried something different. I put it on EV later let the gas engine run while I had the wipres, rear defroster and front heat/defroster off thinking this will preheat the system then when it was comfortable inside I put it on EV only and left the fan on low to stay comfortable all the way home. I wonder is this more efficient? Is the heat only electric or will it use engine coolant when engine is running.

Hello I just bought a 2013 Titanium and have the OEM charging cord which I use in my garage. I do have a 14-50 box installed so my parents could plug their motorhome in when they visited. I was looking to get a cord that could plug into that box. After a google search I found Clipper Creek and their model that has the 14-50 plug the LCS-20P (can't paste the link) that has 16 amp charging capability and after looking through threads here another owner using a EVI model and I like the PA-62 or the PA-63. The latter because it has all the plugs I would ever need since sometimes I camp and they have 30amp and 50amp boxes or some smaller places only have the 30amp plug. A rep from Clipper Creek said our cars can only take a max of 15 amps so with either model is it just plug and play or will I have to adjust charge current either from the cord/box or the car itself to get shorter charge times and/or protect the cars components? Are they really 1/2 the charging time when using 240v? Thanks and Happy Holidays

I buy from insurance auctions and notice a lot of cars with minor damage are totaled. I sometimes buy them and have them repaired with OEM parts for 1/4 to 1/10 the estimated cost to repair but hey I don't have the overhead of a shop with insurance and benefits. The sad thing is we as consumers ultimately pay for what some consider waste. Allstate my carrier will try to be cheap or green (depending on your perspective) by using recycled parts first then aftermarket before they will buy new OEM. When my wife Lexus got damaged we could only refuse aftermarket not the recycled (aka junk yard) parts.

FlyingCheeseHead thanks for the suggestion. I am a new owner and was looking to find something that I could plug into my 14-50 at home and didn't know they had products like this that can use 120v or 240v. Do I have to adjust the charging amps manually on the box or is it done automatically by the controller/box or does the car systems do it automatically?.

Okay I did just get my 2013 Titanium model and know very little about these except they can be fun and thrifty at gas stations. What should I look for? I live in Chicago so we have cold winters and hot summers any operational guidelines I need to know about. I plug up at home with 120v and don't drive more than 20 miles one way so trying to see how little gas I can use. Its 10F so after plugging up outside on start up I see normally a 12 mile range for EV but engine sometimes come on for operational needs so it rarely makes it home without running (only once so far). I do try to limit my heat and defroster use but on coldest mornings 5F engine runs with no electrical loads (driver controlled) plus I have to use my headlights.

Thanks I did get a 2013 Titanium that isn't a DD now that we have snow and single digit temps here.

Thanks everyone. I originally was going to get a SE model but the difference in price between SE and Titanium model was a little about 1K so mines has adaptive cruise, drivers assist, parking assist. I haven't used the parking assist along with about 90% of the cars other capabilities. This is the most sophisticated vehicle I have piloted I must say each drive is like a science experiment-I am trying new things.