4cylinder

It uses the car's telematics modem. It's essentially a free cell phone plan for your car that lasts 5 years from the original date of purchase (auto transfers if the car's ownership changes in that time). In the US it uses AT&T's network while in Canada it uses the Rogers network. Bluetooth is a short-range protocol, lol. Completely and utterly inappropriate for this use case.

No idea about other materials, but absolutely replace it with something intact asap. Otherwise you'll risk salt corrosion leading to oil and transmission fluid leaks.

The ICE was uncomfortably loud on my 2013 hybrid, even when I replaced the plastic intake under the hood with one that included the job 2 muffler. I think it's just poor noise canceling, because I saw a serious improvement in quietness when I switched to the 2017 Energi. Even when I put the pedal to the metal it isn't as loud as the 2013's.

You may have better luck on the 2gfusions.net forum, in their marketplace section. You get access to a much larger Fusion enthusiast community (since it includes gas cars), many of whom are fellow Ontarians. If not for customs I would hit you up on the wheels without the tires. I travel to Toronto every few months but alas, I can't just bring back such large items across the border without declaring them in secondary :( Btw about the 40psi, I find it to be a smooth ride, but in the Detroit area it's a little hard to be sure because our roads are so bad haha.

The infotainment system is surprisingly cheap and easy to replace as a DIY job. In the event it does break, a DIY replacement will cost a few hundred bucks - way less than the cost of the ESP. I had the ESP for my 2013 Fusion hybrid that I traded in, and it wasn't very useful, which does reflect the car's mechanical reliability. Congratulations and glad you got a similar deal to what I had. I also bought a fleet car (13 months old, 7800 miles) for just $22998 before trade-in. When it warms up your range will improve for sure. During the arctic blast, I could only get about 15 miles per charge, but when it's above 10C/50F outside, I can get 25+ with careful driving (except on the freeway). My commute is 100% on suburban roads with traffic lights, so I have plenty of chances to restore a little charge with regenerative braking.

The service records for my CPO '17 Energi show that the car was brought to the dealer once for a dead 12V battery, and the Telematics Control Unit was updated with new software as a fix. Previous owner was a corporation - likely Ford itself using the car for executive fleet duty, since I bought the car at a dealership not far from the Ford HQ. I've had the car as my daily driver since November 10 2017 and the battery hasn't died once. This includes a two-week period in the second half of December where the car sat in my garage during a frigid Michigan winter, without any battery charger being hooked up.

I would go with Nokian WRGs if you want all-seasons on your 19s (right now I have the factory Michelins but my friend loves his WRGs and I will get those if I ever need to replace my Michelins). For winters I use Nokian Hakkapeliitas. I inflate to 40 psi. If you are like me and religiously alternate between winters and all-seasons whenever the weather changes (I plan to switch back to all-seasons in the middle of next month), I would strongly recommend keeping your 17" wheels and sticking winters on those. That would also give you the convenience of being able to swap wheels by hand instead of going to a shop (I have to do that because I only have one set of wheels). I have first-hand experience with using all-seasons vs winters during Toronto snowstorms - even on an AWD car (used to drive one back when I lived in TO) it's a night and day difference. Out of curiosity, what made you install 19s on a plug-in hybrid? They deliver a harsher ride regardless of tire choice, and result in worse efficiency. The gas version of the Fusion Platinum, as well as the Fusion Sport, use 19s because those variants are more performance oriented, but the Hybrid/Energi sticks with 17s even on the Platinum trim.

Haha, I have the same mentality (not just with cars - I buy second-hand game consoles, games, furniture, PC parts, power tools, etc), but at the same time, you gotta be wary of recommending this tactic too much - if too many people opt for this, then not enough people will be buying brand new stuff, and there won't be enough pre-owned deals to go around :D

I got my Titanium with 7800 miles for $22,998 and it was fully loaded minus the cooled seats. I'd say you have an excellent deal with the used car. Even if you pay a little extra to get the Ford ESP, you're still well ahead. Btw, I would also look for used Energis that have the adaptive cruise control even if you have to pay a little more - it's a very useful feature and you won't regret having it. Of course, if you do buy a brand new one, that will later help create some supply for cheapskates like me :P

Glad it worked out! Definitely cheaper than even a DIY APIM swap.

$1100 can buy you a Sync3 upgrade and still leave you at least $300 to spend on other things :) PM me if you want to go that route - it'll feel like driving a whole new car haha. Additionally you can probably find a MFT APIM (without screen) for less than $200 on Ebay, and reprogram it in Forscan (heck reprogramming may not even be necessary if the donor vehicle is a similarly equipped Fusion), if you're too cheap to go for Sync3 but want to do an APIM replacement. The "programming" is much simpler than it sounds and isn't actually "coding".

When I owned a 2013 Fusion hybrid that honestly didn't have much equipment (just nav, luxury package, and park assist), it was still impressive enough that driving it became a sort of "hobby" :) I would frequently try to beat my last fuel economy numbers, and as a bonus it encouraged excessively safe driving since I basically refused to speed once I got immersed with the car. With the Energi, the "hobbying" continues especially now that I have all the safety tech. Once you experience adaptive cruise for the first time, you will never want to own another car without one. I now dread taking long drives in base model rental cars lol.

The Fusion just has a really inefficient climate control system, including in the gas models. It is terrible (energy usage wise) when being used for heat vs being used for A/C.

Ah right, forgot that most hybrids, including the first gen Fusion Hybrid, used NiMH. We really don't have ANY reliable comparison points for super-long-term durability of Li-Ion in cars then :( The oldest one I can think of is the 2011 Chevy Volt. As far as non-hybrid related components go, I find that Ford is not bad for long-term reliability. Still playing catch up with the Japanese, but well ahead of anything from Germany or the UK.

First car was a 2008 Fusion SEL V6 AWD with tons of rattles but otherwise solid mechanical reliability. I bought it in 2012. In 2014 I traded in the 2008 Fusion for a certified pre-owned 2013 Fusion Hybrid ice storm with the luxury and tech packages and Active Park Assist. I absolutely loved that car to death and sank hundreds into personalizing it, but eventually upgraded to the 2017 Energi nearly fully loaded because I really, really wanted that sweet safety tech. For one year I temporarily drove my dad's 2003 Lexus LS430 while my parents took care of the FFH, since I was in grad school. That was one fine automobile. I also have a 2015 Escape titanium fully loaded (minus moonroof) as my secondary car. I inherited that from my sister because her company has sent her abroad temporarily for work. When she moves back I'll hand it over, but she doesn't mind if I trade it for something else as long as she gets to have it lol (thinking of changing it to a 2018 Equinox or Terrain when they hit the used market). Whenever I visit my parents for the holidays I share their 2009 Lexus LS460 or 2018 Chevrolet Volt.

Nice, seems like we have quite a few new members (myself included) recently who went for used 2017 models! I got my Titanium nearly fully loaded with 7800 miles for just $22998 before trade-in :)

Considering that hybrids only really took off around the mid-2000s, there isn't much reference data. Data on Priuses that have exceeded 10 years of age might be the most relevant. Afaik most are still running, and their batteries aren't difficult to replace, but I can't say the same for Ford hybrids since they aren't as popular.

This just happened to me again today, and I followed the advice in this thread and made sure to keep the car on for at least 30 minutes. The trip home from the barber's (all suburban roads, max speed 50 mph) took 25 minutes, so when I got home I just idled in the garage (with the door open of course). At the 5 minute mark, I got nervous since the car still didn't shut off the engine, but at the 7 minute mark, it did! I was then able to change EV modes with the button behind the shifter. In total it took 32 minutes for the car to come out of the "invisible oil maintenance mode". I wonder if it would have taken less time if the car were in motion the whole time, rather than idling for a part of it. Anyway, I am still annoyed that the car does not use any visuals to tell me that oil maintenance mode is on, or instruct me to run the car for 30 continuous minutes. That is a bewildering omission considering many first-time PHEV owners (like me) are likely to be unaware of all the specifics.

It's only happened to me once, but I just repeatedly hammered my finger on the indentation (not too hard though) and eventually the accumulated ice broke apart and the door sprang open. It's a very tight space so there shouldn't be too much ice building up there.

For those who anticipate they'll keep their Energis for a while and hate MyFord Touch: http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=3881 Owners of vehicles with Active Park Assist may also want to do this alongside a Sync3 upgrade (it will require you to spend at least $200 on a separate tool): http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=6712 The most straightforward way to obtain a Sync3 kit is to send your VIN to 4dtech or infotainment.com, and they'll pre-program it for you and have it be plug-and-play. However, it's extremely expensive - $1600 for a non-nav and $2100 for a nav unit. Instead, I recommend getting an OBDLink MX Bluetooth programming tool, and researching ebay and junkyards for the best deal, then programming the unit yourself via ForScan (DanMc85 of the forum can assist). I personally upgraded two vehicles to Sync3 at about $700 per vehicle including the new high-current USB hubs. You can go as low as $300-$400 if you opt for a non-navigation model - I recently helped a friend upgrade an Ecoboost Fusion for just $450 that way. After all Android Auto and Apple Carplay already simulate built-in nav quite well. The donor vehicle doesn't necessarily have to be a Fusion - I've confirmed that the Focus, Escape, Mustang, and C-Max use APIMs with compatible frames (the brackets do need to be replaced, but the holes line up exactly the same way, and your existing MFT will have brackets for you to reuse). I believe the equivalent Lincoln models (MKC, MKZ, etc) should also be appropriate donor vehicles. Note: The new USB hub is not strictly necessary unless you want to use Apple Carplay (Android Auto will be fine) but I still recommend it just for the faster charging. The same guide I linked at the beginning also shows you how to remove and replace the FCIM (the panel with the climate control and volume buttons) for one from a 2016 Fusion. You do not need to buy the Sync3 kit if you only want to replace the panel, and vice versa. I highly recommend at least doing the panel swap - it's about $100 on average and will make the car far more pleasant to use. 2013-2015 Titanium models will also gain physical buttons for heated/cooled seats in the process.

The only "solution" is spending about $700 (not including programming tool) to throw out the MFT system and stick in Sync3, which is exactly what I did to the 2013 hybrid I traded in (as well as my 2015 Escape), though I swapped back MFT before doing the actual trade. If you plan to keep the car for a while, it's not a bad "investment" in terms of the "happiness" payoff. I found this metadata thing VERY annoying too during the time I had MFT in my 2013 hybrid. I ended up reserving a USB stick just for music so I could see the track info on the cluster screen.

Yep, brand new Energis in the Detroit area also have more generous dealer incentives than equivalent hybrid or gasoline models (equipment-wise), besides the tax credit. The difference is even more extreme on lightly used cars. My 2017 Energi Titanium listed for $22,998 with 7800 miles and almost all options. At the same dealer, a 2017 gasoline SE with fewer options and 8200 miles was going for about $24k, while a 2017 Hybrid Titanium with the same options as my car and 13,000 miles was also going for $24k. Since used cars do not qualify for tax credits, that seriously eats into first-year depreciation on the Energi model. I also suspect that the small trunk hurts resale value.

I've driven gas-only cars in the past and find that using A/C in the summer impacts fuel economy a LOT less than using heat in the winter. Same goes for the 2013 hybrid I traded in for the 2017 Energi. On a hot day I will use the global windows open feature from my key fob to air out the car before I get in, and then drive around for a few minutes with the windows down but no A/C on - this is far more efficient if you can get some decent speed. Only then do I actually turn on the A/C. I bought my Energi in November so I didn't get a chance to test out the A/C's impact yet, but I'm guessing that my preferred setting of 22C at lowest fan speed will have minimal impact, if any, on EV range and gas usage. I also park my car in a garage, so the A/C doesn't have to work very hard if I am driving out of my house on a hot day. For those who have easy access to Level 2 chargers, does the engine turn on if you use remote start on a hot day while the car is plugged in?

I park my cars in a garage to avoid that :) I don't know if snow/ice is the cause but people on the Hybrid forum have reported finding leaks on rainy days. I wonder if regular usage of the moonroof increases the likelihood of that happening.

Yep that is called Global Open/Close. My moonroof-less Escape also has it, as do most cars made since the early 2000s (if all their windows are power windows).