4cylinder

A/C definitely impacts EV range a bit, though it's a tiny hit compared to heat use during the winter. In SE Michigan on a 30C+ July day I will get maybe 22-24 miles if I use the A/C. If I drive with the windows down instead I can easily get 27+.

I would live with it (#1). At this point the cost of the battery is likely going to be more than half your car's value. In a few years time, your car will be worth less than a new battery. Also the Energi didn't exactly sell in large numbers so demand is not going to be high for replacement batteries. Look at it this way - your car's EV range is now just as good as that of the BMW 530e :P I think 4.6 kWh refers to the "energy used" shown on the trip summary screen when you've completed a drive that involved fully depleting the HVB (referring to the amount allowed for EV mode, not actually depleting it which would be bad).

In my two-bathroom townhouse, there is one GFCI switch in one bathroom that also controls the outlet in the other bathroom, so if there's a trip in one bathroom, both bathrooms' outlets stop working and I have to reset. My electric toothbrush charger trips it every day within 2-3 hours of resetting. A space heater will trip it within 1 minute. Looks like mine are just super sensitive...

Makes sense! Unfortunately (or rather, thankfully!) the polar vortex is long over and won't be back for quite some time (hopefully) so I can't run a test now, but I've saved this info in my notes for the next time the cold blast hits my area. My outlets are plastic so that can be ruled out.

Correct. Sync3 is not as new as some other head units out there so it only supports AA over a USB cable. In fact, I don't think wireless AA is supported on any factory infotainment system yet - I've only seen it in aftermarket units.

My garage has a door opener and a crappy old light bulb as far as I can see. There is just one pair of outlets connected to the same GFCI switch. Also, the tripping has only happened during extreme cold - do you know if that could impact the wiring or grounding somehow? Thanks.

Interesting... I didn't think of the GFCI circuitry itself being sensitive to the cold, but that does sound plausible. The grid in my townhouse isn't of the highest quality - for example the circuit breaker trips within seconds when I have my TV on and a space heater active at the same time in my living room! Meanwhile my electric toothbrush charger always trips the GFCI in my bathroom within 2-3 hours, forcing me to reset it every morning. Is there such a thing as the GFCI circuitry "going bad" over time, or just being "low quality"? My townhouse was built in 2001 if that's relevant. Anyway, this annoyance does make me glad to have a PHEV rather than a full EV (for once) - otherwise I would be in trouble and might have to go out and freeze my behind off to charge at a public Level 2 station lol. Can't wait till I can get my own home and actually install a proper charging station...

I've gotten it twice this year due to the harsh winters of SE Michigan. Perfectly normal - just drive around or idle for 30-35 min and it should go away on its own.

Android Auto requires a cable connection in the Ford. Wireless charging cannot transmit data so simply plugging a wireless pad into the USB port won't work. Anyway given that the use of GPS is a serious battery drain, I wouldn't want to charge it wirelessly anyway - it would likely drain faster than it charges.

I would also add that some states/provinces give single occupancy HOV lane privileges to EVs and PHEVs. I know a guy who bought the PHEV version of the BMW X5 just to get the HOV privileges. He doesn't care about the electric part, but the time he saves on his commute is something he really appreciates. Sadly he often forgets the plug even exists and doesn't use his car to its full potential :(

I've had my Energi slam on the brakes faster than I can move my foot when I get cut off in a dangerous fashion. However, if someone moves in front of me and they're still a "safe" distance ahead (i.e at least one car length), my Energi does take longer than I'd like to slow down in order to maintain its following distance (which I set to 4 bars). As murphy said, this tech, while useful, is not meant to substitute for the driver, so stay alert :) I can't wait for the day self driving taxis become the norm, but until then I will strive to stay alert, and see these driver aids as just a safeguard against potential fatigue.

I live right next to the Canadian border and drive across every few months so there's literally zero AT&T coverage there. However, the car has zero issues switching to Canadian providers (the big ones use the same 3G frequencies as AT&T), and has zero issues switching back to AT&T when I cross back into the US. I have a 2017 though, and I have yet to drive into an area that actually has zero 3G coverage (rather than simply a change of provider).

If I "rush" things, this tends to happen. I've had to teach myself to "take things slow" - start the car, take a breath, shift to D at a calm pace, disengage the parking brake, and then it's fine. If I try to turn the shifter the way I would spin a combination lock, the car really doesn't like it.

I actually used Forscan to disable the CD player from the audio options screen because I feel it's a useless feature that adds clutter (no offence). Since you're out of warranty I would just ignore the issue. Rip your CDs to a USB drive or your phone and use that instead. I can guarantee that the next owner (if you end up selling/trading in) won't even notice the existence of the CD player and (or at best, comment on how such a new car still comes with a dinosaur feature).

This. The savings are especially great with non-Japanese brands. Also, financing options for used cars tend to be less attractive than they are for brand new cars. If I were in the market for a brand new car, I might consider a lease/finance but for now I'm happy buying lightly used cars and running them into the ground. Btw, one sad bit of news for MY2019 Fusions - Active Park Assist is no longer offered except on the Sport V6 model. Although I don't use the feature often, it's the only way to get parking sensors in the front fascia (which I actually use often). Not a big deal but still disappointing.

Do you park yours outdoors? I left my car in the garage (plugged in) for 3 weeks during Xmas 2018 and it started right back up when I returned. It still has the same 12V battery it had since its original Oct 2016 build date (I am the second owner). New cars these days have too many electronics and the standard lead acid battery used in most cars hasn't advanced much in decades. Outdoor parking during the winter only exacerbates the drain.

In SE Michigan I see a 50% drop in EV range during the most extreme cold, compared to the max range I get during summer hypermiling.

Just filled up for the first time in 2019. Range is 870 km on gas and 32 km on EV mode (thanks to the winter). I should see the figures rise to 960+ km for gas and 42+ km for EV in the summer. I do not use freeways for my commute or any regular errands which obviously inflates those numbers somewhat.

I live in a rented townhouse so I can't install a Level 2 charger (even if I could, I'd just be giving my landlord a very expensive gift when I move out). The only outlets in my garage are the GFCI type, and ever since I bought the car I've been charging from that outlet. 99% of the time it's never a problem, but when there is extreme cold (e.g. the deep freeze that SE Michigan endured during the last week of January, which saw temps plunge to -25C), the outlet has a tendency to trip - and it'll keep tripping within seconds of me resetting the switch as long as the car remains plugged in. The only solution is to wait for the weather to warm up (fortunately it doesn't need to be TOO warm - at least -15C is good for the most part). During these cold snaps, I literally cannot charge my car indoors anymore. Thus, I'm seeking the help of those with a more advanced understanding of electric circuits. Specifically, what exactly do you think is causing the GFCI to trip, and why does it exclusively happen during extreme cold? These are the possible culprits I've gathered from some Googling: The heating system in my house works overtime (I can hear it whirring loudly) during such weather, and my townhouse's grid can't handle the load of both the heater and an EV charging at the same time, so it sacrifices the garage outlet.The extreme cold causes the car to draw more current from the outlet to keep the battery warm while charging (I am least confident about THIS theory as I believe GFCI doesn't protect against current surges)There is some kind of earth leakage in my townhouse but it doesn't manifest except in extreme cold (if that even makes any sense...). If this is the real issue I could probably get my landlord to fix it, but the inability to reproduce it outside of extreme cold might make it hard to diagnose.

FWIW I left my car plugged in inside my garage for 3 weeks during a Michigan winter (I do not have a smart battery maintainer) and it started right back up when I got back. The 12V is more resilient than I expected. My garage is not a fancy heated type, but it does provide a reasonable amount of insulation (at least a 10C difference between inside and outside) which probably helps. I would not expect to see the same result if I'd left the car in, say, airport long-term parking (or even on my driveway), where it would be directly exposed to harsh cold. Nevertheless, I have a portable jumper in my center console storage just in case the worst happens. It stays plugged into my 12V port all the time (I used ForScan to make the 12V shut off instantly when the car is off, so it doesn't cause issues) so it always will have a charge if I ever need it.

Nice work! Surprised that fogs weren't standard on the SE luxury. I previously had a 2013 hybrid SE with the luxury package and it came with them standard - I guess Ford decided to do a bit of cost cutting on the '18s?

I've left my car in the garage for 2 weeks during extreme Michigan cold while on vacation and it still starts. My car received all the possible software updates before I bought it (used) and thus far battery drain hasn't been a problem. To be safe, I make sure to take a relatively long drive (20 min or more) when I first start the car after leaving it for a while.

And this is why we call them stealerships :D Congratulations on your purchase. You paid less for a new one than I did for a used one with 7800 miles!

Easiest way to "add" range: Drive like a grandma and be exceptionally stingy with HVAC :P In a flat area like Metro Detroit you can get close to 30 miles during the summer when not on the freeway!

I bought a 13 month old car, that is now 25 months old, and it still shows 5.4 kWh used on a full charge (same as the day I bought it). That is indeed weird...