4cylinder

Not installing TPMS will cause your car to throw a fault message every time you start it up. You'll still be able to drive but do you really want to live with that alarm on startup and the warning light on your dash for the entire drive?

You could probably mess around with the wiring to keep the LEDs on but they aren't of the highest quality and will burn out quickly. Quite a few people here have reported seeing one or more quadrants in the ring burn out. Doesn't affect actual operation but does spoil the look a bit. I always thought the dashboard indicator used on the Volt/Bolt was much better.

Literally every EV that's currently being sold has this exact idiot proof feature :) Tesla, Chevy Bolt/Volt, Prius Prime, whatever. Otherwise you'd be hearing of ripped-out chargers in the news on a daily basis.

Bump: My EVSE still works, but the green seal deformed some more (even with the wall holster I bought) and eventually fractured partially, causing part of it to repeatedly stick into the empty space and make it difficult to properly insert the plug into my car. I ripped out the seal completely and the plug effortless slides in and out of my car's charge port with no issues. The question is, could this cause any problems, e.g. if the port itself is wet from being left open in the rain? I park in a garage so the plug itself will always be protected, but if water/ice is transferred from the charge port without the protection of that green seal...

I've had it happen to me (loud groan while stepping on brake) when reversing after the car has sat through a long thunderstorm. Seems to go away on its own though.

Switch to metric and your consumption will change to 0.0 L/100 km (higher = more gas being used). There is nothing wrong with the car. Ford's programming just doesn't let the number rise above 999.9 MPG if you use the imperial setting.

I will never use a stealership except for recalls and warranty work. Besides being much cheaper, independent shops also generally give you more transparency. At my last oil change I was able to stand by my car and see the staff do the job properly, using the correct oil in the correct quantity. Electric certification doesn't mean much. The average Ford stealership is uninterested in selling EVs regardless.

This is a bizarre problem that acts only during the summer and only if the car has been parked in the hot sun in temperatures of at least high 70s F. If it's a cool day or if I parked in the shade, then I won't hear the noise. When I go over cracks/bumps at low speeds, I can hear a loud squeak that sounds like plastic-on-plastic or plastic-on-metal. This is quite distinct from the normal interior creaking noises one can expect from any car that's been subject to hot weather. I don't hear the noise at freeway speeds, but I suspect that's only because it's masked by wind noise. Obviously this has to be something that's capable of expanding when subject to the sun's heat. I actually tried taking it to the stealership at the end of last summer and while they confirmed the sound was a problem, they said it was a "nuisance issue rather than a safety issue" and since I was about to leave on a road trip, I just took the car back. Unfortunately the temperatures dropped just as I finished my trip so I couldn't reproduce the sound anymore. Now I actually have some free time and it's still pretty hot outside in Michigan. However I don't trust the incompetent stealership staff to identify this on their own, so I'm wondering if any experts here can chime in. Could it be coming from the shocks/suspension springs? I think the sound originates from around the footwell which is why my theory is the shocks/spring. I also had a bad 2018 when it came to pothole collisions and it's not unlikely that something got misaligned as a result. Here are 4 videos showing what I describe. The descriptions in each video mark the timestamp at which the sound is most audible. Sorry I don't have the best phone out there for this so the squeaks don't sound as bad as they do in real life. Thanks in advance!

I can do it myself as well - but I like the front sensors for really tight spaces. Saved me from curbs before. If there were an option to have the front sensors but not have Park Assist for a lower price, I'd take that haha.

I know that 20" wheels are able to fit on non-hybrid Fusions easily, but you will be stuck with low-profile tires since it is a sedan after all - that's not good for ride smoothness but if you really want the looks go ahead.

Not surprising - even Tesla isn't offering battery upgrades. And I wouldn't even want a new Energi myself due to active park assist being removed :(

I don't know about the insulation, but the active park assist was removed from all non-Sport Fusions for MY 2019.

Yep, the Energi has been introduced to police departments for non-pursuit duties. Makes perfect sense for patrolling places like downtown NYC where there would be significantly more idling than moving.

Can confirm, I don't trust stealerships and only go for recalls/TSBs nowadays. Independent mechanics are better in every way - faster, more skilled, more transparent, and cheaper. When I did my first oil change I got to stand outside my car and see every step of the procedure and be confident that no corners were being cut. Additionally, I was in and out in less than 30 minutes. I currently have a rubbing noise issue that only manifests during hot weather. I tried going to the stealership last summer and they left the car parked in the shade and barely drove it, so they claimed there was no problem. When I forced them to actually ride with me on a hot day, they claimed it wasn't covered under warranty and just guessed that it was the body panels. By the time I got my car back, nothing was fixed and temperatures had cooled down enough that the noise didn't occur anymore. Now that temperatures are hot again, I'm going to give my business to an independent. Even if I'm technically eligible for a warranty claim, I'm not going to waste my time arguing at the stealership anymore. As for buying the Energi itself, I got it used and like others said, the staff didn't seem enthusiastic about selling it. At least they didn't try to push me towards a gas guzzler, and they didn't argue with me when I revealed I knew more about how the car works than they did.

I heard of faulty ACMs on the first batch of '17 Fusions causing the audio system to drain the battery when the car is off. Someone even captured a video of the CD player randomly making cycling noises and whatnots while the car was off.

Ford also claimed that the trunk cargo nets for the regular Fusion wouldn't fit in the hybrid/Energi... lo and behold, they were totally wrong. Heck, they claimed a spare tire wouldn't go into the Hybrid, but the bracket and 16" donut spare actually fit there just fine (not the case for the Energi sadly). There are no dimensional differences on the exterior between the Energi and gas models. Go ahead and use the car cover for a gas model.

Thanks for the suggestions. I wonder if it's safe to drill into the plastic shell of my EVSE (the part that hangs off the wall plug) as that seems like the best place to mount such attachments for those of us who live in rentals.

Haha yeah, the stealership charges through the nose for the simplest things - they quote $80 to change my wiper blades when I was able to grab Motorcraft blades for $32 off ebay and install them myself. No doubt they'd charge $100+ just to reset a rubber seal... Although I park in a garage, sometimes my car charges at public stations in rain/snow conditions and that could lead to water entering the port, and then being transferred to my EVSE plug when I get home.

Thanks, that confirms my suspicions. I'll see if I can dismantle the plug and get that seal back into shape. Edit: Yes, my car is still under warranty until October (bumper to bumper). Totally forgot about that - I'll see if I can get it covered! I also park in a garage so in case they don't cover this, I could remove the seal. EDIT: Fixed! I was able to just nudge all the warped parts back into place with a screwdriver.

I'm using the stock EVSE that came with my '17 Energi. Unlike more professional-looking charging stations, there is no "holster" for the plug head to rest in, so I just leave it on a cardboard box next to my car in my garage. Probably not a good idea after all due to the highly variable weather of the Midwest. Today when I came home after work I found that the plug wouldn't go all the way into my port (couldn't click the latch) which was strange as I'd just charged it at work with no issues. I shone a flashlight into the port and didn't see any obstructions. I then checked the plug head and took a photo. It looks like the inner green rubber seal has warped on the left (in the picture) and bent inwards between two of the pins, causing an obstruction. Am I correct? If so, any suggestions for fixing it? I'd really prefer to avoid blowing $200+ on a new EVSE.

I'm surprised that Ford even bothers exporting such a large vehicle to Europe. Their roads and parking spaces are not friendly to that vehicle class. That's why BMW and Mercedes assemble all their large SUVs in the USA rather than in Germany. Also excited for the Escape PHEV - I might trade in my 2015 Escape when 1 year old ex-fleet/lease vehicles hit the market with the tax credit factored into depreciation :P The all-LCD cluster and improved CoPilot tech are very enticing. Unlike GM and Tesla Ford hasn't hit the tax credit cap yet so bring 'em on!

Never heard of this problem on the Energi itself, but fires caused by failed parts are not uncommon on just about any brand of car. I'm guessing the previous owner(s) did not maintain the car too well during the 120,000 miles the car was driven in the USA. Salt corrosion and other wear-and-tear conditions will take their toll on any car and if they aren't addressed in time, disaster ensues. As much as I like this car, I honestly would not grey-import it into a nation where such cars are not popular, due to difficulty of repairing and getting replacement parts. Japanese cars are dominant in the Middle East and Africa for a reason!

Welcome! There is one bummer for 2019 owners though - the Titanium has everything except Active Park Assist which isn't even offered anymore on the Fusion (except on the Sport V6 where it's standard). While the auto-parallel-parking feature isn't all that impressive, it does give the car parking sensors in the front bumper, which I find very useful.

To add to wazer's answer, when you're looking at pictures of the used car, you can tell whether or not it has ACC by looking at the steering wheel switch. Fusions with ACC have a rocker switch on the lower left with two arrows: https://www.eurocarspreowned.com/imagetag/2645/20/l/Used-2017-Ford-Fusion-Platinum:-Heated-Seats,-Sunroof,-Heated-Steering-Wheel.jpg Fusions without ACC have this switch instead with the words RES and CNCL in place of the two arrows https://www.rochestermazda.com/inventoryphotos/5388/3fa6p0t98gr156075/ip/19.jpg?height=400 It's often the case that the Autotrader or Truecar listing incorrectly reports the options, saying that the car has ACC when it doesn't, or not specifying the existence of ACC when the car most definitely has it. The car I bought also failed to mention that the ACC exists on its TrueCar listing.

I have an aftermarket heads-up display that is powered from the OBD port. When the car first starts while in Park, the HUD always shows the battery voltage briefly for a sanity check before switching to show my speed. It's always 15-15.4V when I start it up.