Paul Creed III

Any suggestions for a WeatherTech-like floor liner/mat for the trunk for a 2017 Energi?

In the year+ since the 12volt battery issue was finally resolved (resolved by replacing the defective-from-the-factory 12volt battery and several rounds of software updates), I have had no further 12volt battery issues even though my driving style has remained largely unchanged.

+1 on the OEM blades. I used to use various aftermarket blades on my vehicles over the years but none have performed as well as the OEM blades on the Energi. I just have them replaced when at the dealer for service otherwise.

I am getting close to 40MPG here in Ohio in the winter which is roughly in line with what I have gotten the two winters prior that I have owned the FFE. The worst MPG that I ever got was on two long trips, both times refueling from the same Mobil station - just barely over 30MPG. I stick with BP fuel as much as possible.

I have started experiencing the same issue too.

Depending upon when I go to purchase my next ride, it'll either be a Chevy Bolt, Hyundai Kona Electric, or Tesla Model 3. Glad to see that the EV market is really opening up with a number of options now.

I concur as well: I'd prefer to give the ICE at least a few seconds to get all of the oil circulating, especially when the ICE has been sitting for a while, such as overnight. What I have observed is that when I switch to EV Later and the ICE kicks on, there'll be a few second before the ICE will significantly rev and the HVB usage drops off - kinda like the computer gives the ICE a couple of seconds to get oil pressure up before letting it take over the propulsion load.

Yes, I had this issue happen several times before the last round of 12volt battery issues (which would have had the 12volt battery disconnected, e.g. a full system shutdown).

Nope; factory fresh Apple cable.

I have had random issues with CarPlay and my iPhone. Straight-up Bluetooth works fine, but connecting phone via USB to get CarPlay features (primarily for Pandora and Apple Maps) is only about 75% reliable.

Yup, it was in L yesterday. Did the very same drive today just in D, with the HVAC on a touch, and the ICE didn't start at all. I'll keep it in D for an initial short distance to "burn off" some charge then switch to L for my city driving. Thanks!

I had this super high rev happen this morning. Started with 100% HVB charge in Auto Mode, HVAC completely off, along with recent ICE usage and fresh gas, 65F temps, and the ICE kicked on in my driveway at a couple MPH. The ICE ran, along with some HVB usage, for a mile or so through two stop signs/red lights. When I went to slow down (from ~20 MPH) at the third red light, the ICE was still running and kicked into super high rev even though the downgrade was incredibly tiny coming up to the light.

Last night, I drove from work to a local Walmart, and the HVAC seemed fine (there was heat and fan control). Left Walmart and had no ability to change HVAC - no amount of fiddling with the power switch, auto, fan speed, or temperature would get the system to actually do anything; rear defroster worked, though. Got home, shut the car off, turned it back on - same issue. I have a Go Time set for work each morning and the car was warmed to the pre-set temperature and I had full HVAC on my drive in. Anyone else had this issue?

Successfully installed the update. Haven't noticed any changes.

Looks like there's an issue with the instructions for extracting on a Mac. I just downloaded and extracted on a PC and the extracted files match the folder structure from the instructions. Will give the update a try tonight.

Anyone having any luck with updating to Sync 3 version 2.3 that was just released? https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/keep-your-sync-up-to-date/sync-software-update.html#/download The installation instructions do not match what is actually downloaded. When the .zip file is extracted, there's no SyncMyRide folder, just a couple executables and a bunch of .gz .tar files. Extracting those (for fun, since just placing the .gz files resulted in ERR5 on screen on the touchscreen) yields folders with SyncMyRide in the folder name along with additional random characters. Since the instructions do not match what the download even contains, I've tried manually creating the SyncMyRide folder and copying the .gz .tar files into it, along with extracting into that folder to no joy. Every time yield ERR5 on the touchscreen. I can't park close enough to my WiFi to pick it up so the USB option is the what I have to work with.

Your's could have been manufactured after mine, then. Those made after April 2016, from what I recall, have a different model of 12volt battery and weren't faulty.

There's several threads on the 12volt battery drain issue which I have experienced myself. There are NUMEROUS software updates that came out for my 2017 after it left the factory, most of which were for battery drain issues. Also, the factory 12volt battery for the early 2017's was defective, as documented on these forums. Stress to your dealer to install all available software updates and try to get them to replace the 12volt battery, if your's was made early in the 2017 production year or you'll just be back to the dealer in short order.

+1 on this question.

You shouldn't have to pay for any software update since the vehicle is under warranty and the updates are to fix known problems.

Have you been to the dealer in the last month or so? There have been a slew of software updates in the past few months, including one for the Body Control Module that came out only a month or so ago.

My 2017 has 15,000 miles, I am easy on the brakes (still on the first set of pads), and the front rotors needing machining and the rears replaced. Tech blamed it on the weather.

Dealer had the car for a week. They finally replaced the 12volt battery after it failed testing, installed an update to the BCM, and did a master reset of Sync stack.

Barely one month since the last visit to the dealership for the "System Off to Save Battery", it is occurring several hundred miles from home. I am leaving the car "on" all the time so I don't have to rely on the 12volt battery until I get home.

I had this same re-programming done to the TCU in mid-May when the vehicle's 12volt battery died on me (for the second time) - likely I caught this update right before the recall notice went out to everyone en masse. There's an update for the Audio Control Module as well which is for parasitic power drain; might want to acquire that update while at the dealer too.