BadRock

I got 47k out of the stock Michelin Energy Saver A/S tires, replaced them with Michelin Premier A/S tires. So far so good, they have much better traction and handling in wet conditions and hopefully they're better in the snow. Haven't seen an impact on milage yet.

It's been nearly 10 months and 20k miles and the oil life indicator still says 28%, not bad.

I go off of the Oil Life Monitor and change my own, it doesn't happen often but when it does this is what it looks like.... http://youtu.be/fdXENJFMliA

Do not use the Jtech 10x 194 168 2825 T10 5-SMD White LED Car Lights Bulb found on Amazon. Here's what you'll end up with if you do.... http://youtu.be/0rmqZepCICU

Well!? :shift:

Here's all you really need to know...

Got mine, $850. Maybe now I will invest in a L2 charging station.

This is the result of the DC/AC conversion that takes place in the inverter. Depending on the switching frequency of the inverter you may experience audible noise. This is normal, they can increase the switching frequency but you overdrive the inverter and produce more heat which leads to premature component failure (IGBT) or you can decrease the switching frequency and end up with more audible noise. This is always a balancing act when tuning a drive unit. Ultimately the actual noise is the result of an AC motor operating with a no sinusoidal wave. "When a motor is powered from an adjustable frequency drive using a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) output waveform, the audible noise produced by the stator laminations has a different sound quality than with sine wave power.The adjustable frequency drive produces an output voltage waveform made of high frequency pulses. The frequency of pulses is determined by the carrier frequency of the selected adjustable frequency drive.The motor stator core laminations vibrate at the carrier frequency changing the pitch of the audible noise. Whether the actual power level of the noise is increased due to a PWM waveform will depend upon the level of the applied excitation voltage."

Sorry to hear of your loss, glad to see you made it out okay. Hopefully they do you right.

My A-plan on my configuration (shown in forum signature) is $39,953.60, MSRP is $44,420.00

Finally changed my own oil, shot a quick video of how to remove the panel if anyone is curious of this process.

I have noticed clicking lately too, I can also reproduce the noise buy turning the steering wheel from side to side while stopped.

It has been a little while! So I thought that TSB might be related but it says "vehicles built on or before 4/16/2013" but mine was built at the end of May. Not to mention it's not just the defrost that's not selectable it all the selections within the sub-menu.

I have a remote start issue that I can't solve. When I go Vehicle--> Remote Start ---> Climate Control all of the offerings are grayed out and you can not select them. The system is enabled and set to a 10 minute duration. Any ideas? I am not using MyKey and I have tried both keys, with the car "running" and in ACC mode. I've even tried accessing it while the car is started via remote start. Nothing seems to shake it.

So I've tried both keys and still no luck. Starting a new thread for ease of use.

I have not tried the other key but I am not using MyKey in any capacity.

I have a remote start issue that I can't solve. When I go Vehicle--> Remote Start ---> Climate Control all of the offerings are grayed out and you can not select them. The system is enabled and set to a 10 minute duration. Any ideas?

If you push the release button on the handle and hold it for ~5 seconds you will hear the car make a click/clunck noise. This is a large relay disengaging the charger and acknowledging that the car is being unplugged. Once you hear this noise you can unplug the car and you will not get this message. This feature is to alert you when someone promptly unplugs the car.

Yep, pass code started working on my HTC One after the latest app update.

Apparently I'm #1 for braking in my region!

I regularly transport 4 full size men in mine without issues. Having the efficient car makes it the lunchmobile in my office. :shift:

I believe hill assist works in conjunction with data collected from the on board gyroscope. Depending on the angle of descent the car will apply appropriate regenerative braking to attempt to maintain the speed you were traveling when your foot left the accelerator. If you are traveling at 0° grade no additional braking is applied. 10°+ grade regenerative braking is fully applied. I use this often and it works rather well.

Probably not, the stock lamps are 35w. If you go HID you will probably go with a 35w as well. A watts, a watt.

Thanks! Good stuff.

I had the exact some experience.