jasper7821
Fusion Energi Member-
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Everything posted by jasper7821
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WOW, finally found the modem. Can see the part number from a little hole in the trunk. And now need to take the parcel shelf off to remove the modem. The Ford replacement file in my last post has a part number for my Fusion Energi of HS7Z-14G229-Q, but the part number Ford installed a few years ago is HS7T-14G087-ED. Just curious which modem I should try to buy. And just talked to the dealer and they said for my VIN, the P/N is DS7Z-14G229-A. But if I buy it and it's not it, I'm stuck with it. And I can't find a used one out there.
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WOW, thank you very much. Since I found nothing on/under the parcel shelf, looks like it's next to the taillight harness. I'll pull that sides covers off and see what I find. Thanks again.
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I'll look again but I looked all in the trunk on both sides, I peeled back some of the liner on the right side last night and only wire bundles I saw was for the lights. I'll pull out the liners tonight and see what i can see. Thank You
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Really wish I could find it and change it out, there's nothing on top or below the parcel shelf except the HV battery ducting on bottom and on top vent grills, seat fold down latches, and child seat hooks. It get's 110 here in the desert and my car is parked 10hrs in the direct sun at work. I have a temp gauge inside and it was 167 degrees. Even if it gets shut down in Feb, I'd still love to recondition the car when I leave work. Only thing I found while searching Telematics location is this, but this is the OBD. https://btcgps.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/Fusion-Ford-Telematics-Install-AMFL3J-70G476-AA-Rev-1.pdf
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I removed the fuse for about an hour and still nothing. Still says CPPM ESN: Unknown. Also disconnected the negative side of the battery for an hour as well and still nothing. Also, I cannot find the modem. Different sites said on the underneath side of the parcel rack. Only thing there is the ducting for the cabin air to the battery. 2015 Energi. And you say 3G gets shutdown 2/22. Then what, no more remote access to the car ? Thank You
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I did the same thing and replaced the fluid last weekend. My tranni is fine, just when the car is really hot there is a slight jerk every time the motor generator starts the engine, feels like the cars with the auto stop at a stoplight with the engine that quickly starts. It's better now. I too had an issue and needed a smaller tube cause the hole is too small. It was pouring rain and I just got done detailing me Porsche and wasn't about to take it out in the rain to get a different tube. What I did was in the Harbor Freight pump package, there's a red plastic tip for blowing up rafts or whatever. I used that and cut the tip off about 1/4" so it was much larger and it fit into the hole. It wasn't snug but good enough to pump the fluid in and only leaked out a tiny bit. When I first took the screw out, about 9oz came out and was told before that I had to put in the exact same amount. I bought the car new and has 130k miles so it was like that from the factory. After draining, the total that came out was 4qts 6oz. I didn't know how I was going to get an extra 9oz over the fill hole line. I was going to test drive then jack it up on that side and hopefully 9oz would go in. I was already frustrated cause it was taking so long that I just ended up putting in 4qts 9oz knowing some was going to spill out when I pulled the tube out and hurried to get the screw in. Ended up working just fine and been a few hundred miles and all good so far.
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Searched and cannot find out what’s wrong with my system. Cannot connect to the app anymore. It used to quit often and disconnecting the battery fixed it. It does have a 3G modem. I deleted the car and cannot re-sync now. Haven’t pulled tie use yet, (at work) but since disconnecting the battery several times, I’m guessing removing the fuse isn’t going to help. It’s a 2014 Energi. Any suggestions? maybe have to install another modem ?
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Ok, there’s about 1kw efficiency loss on a charge on 110 which makes sense since my home meter says 4.8kw used and the car when empty says 3.8. But I don’t fully understand the rest of the statement, I know .5 is unusable but I thought the 1.5 hybrid capacity was. But it does kinda make sense since I lose full battery at 3.3kw or so and lose hybrid at 3.8kw.. My simple math has me thinking I’ve lost 48%. I used 7.6 minus .5 to equal 7.1, then divided my 3.8 that I get by 7.1 to equal 48%.
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Replying to this old thread. My Energi is 4yrs old and has 96k miles. I’ve owned it since new and complained many times about the battery degradation. I finally paid the $175 for the full testing and Ford said it’s normal for my age and mileage. I only get 10-13 miles and 3.4 on full electric and 3.8 until battery is done and It runs on full gas. When charging on 110v so I can connect my monitor, it only takes 4.81kw and that’s including the inefficiency. so I’ve lost 43% battery in the 4yrs, much more than I would think is acceptable. And I contacted the class action attorney in the link and she’s not there anymore and the person who took over said they decided not to pursue a suit due to Ford’s warranty states that their will be some degradation over time. still, with almost 50% capacity lost, I think it’s unacceptable but seems there’s nothing I can do.
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The PID test on mine says 4.84kw and Ford says that's normal for a car of my age and mileage. BUT, I deplete full electric at 3.4kw and deplete hybrid mode at 3.8kw, then it's 100% gas. When I do a full charge from empty on 110v, my meter says 4.81kw was used. Is that what the PID test also states cause the numbers are similar? I was assuming that if my car switches to full gas at 3.8kw and it takes 4.81kw to charge, then the extra kw is due to inefficiency of the charging. So if my battery only uses 3.8kw plus the .5kw non-usable, that means my battery's total capacity is only 4.3kw. And when new it was 7.6kw, so I've lost 43% of the full capacity ? It doesn't sound like normal degradation to me, just seeing if I have a valid case to try and dispute Ford's claim that it's normal.
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2018 96,000 miles 3.4 kwh to hybrid mode 3.8 kwh to empty about 12 miles EV
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I'm in Arizona and it's been in the 40's on my way to work. I pre-heat the car so when I leave I still have 100% battery and the Climate bar is only at about 2kw. When I have it off and turn it on when the battery is depleted, I only get about 2-3 more miles on electric. And good to know the heater is 5kw. I really with the battery was fluid cooled instead, cause in the summer it's 110-120 degrees in the desert when I get off work and the car will not even run on 100% battery at all. I love the quietness when in full battery mode. Oh Well, my car will have to do until the Cybertruck arrives :0 Also have a reservation for the Mach E, so we'll see what happens.
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I would like to know this too since Ford denied my battery warranty, I wouldn't mind putting in a different battery. How much do the batteries run at the salvage yard.
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Just curious if there's others like me out there with the same degradation. I bought a new 2015 Fusion Energi 4yrs ago and it used to get pretty decent electric mileage. Now I have 95k miles and I only get 10-13 AC/Heat on, and 12-14 AC/Heat off miles until the motor kicks on. If I totally milk the gauge keeping the power under the blue line I can squeeze a few more miles. After fully charged it'll say 12-14 miles depending on the temperature in my garage I think. I took it to Ford and they denied the warranty. The battery Cell team concluded after reading the PID info it's characteristic to the car for the age and mileage. To get almost 1/2 of what I used to get doesn't seem characteristic to me. Here's the data, just curious if this is normal. They gave me the Ford Customer Service number, called them and they said there's nothing they can do.
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Just curious to know how many miles of my 62k are EV and also curious about the lifetime MPG. I reset trip 1 every time I fill up reset trip 2 when leaving for work every day. I saw somewhere that a 2013 Fusion had a Lifetime Summary when turning of the car. I don't see that on my car. The left screen shows Trip Summary and the right screen says "Thanks for driving a hybrid".
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My 2015 has 62k miles and I am in AZ too and I have a 70 miles round trip commute to work and work in the middle of the desert with zero shade and I charge on 110 there during the day and when I get in my car at the end of the day it's 140-150 degrees in the car. And at night it's about 105 in the garage and I charge on 220. My car uses 4.5kw now until the battery is out. But when I get to work (about 1/3 city and the rest freeway and rural road) it usually says 20-24 miles EV. When I exit the freeway, I have about a 4 miles road until I get to work. I use the Empower screen and can usually stay in EV mode until just about up to the guard gate unless there's cars behind me and I have to speed up and use gas. Several months ago I think I was close to 5kw, so it's gone down almost .5kw in the last several months. For the first two years I was in California and now I'm in the miserable heat, so I think being in the heat has degraded the battery more than being in nice weather.
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Yes, I understand the time is set for the time I want to leave, but the car coming on more than 45 minutes before I want to leave should be right. When I use the app to start the car and get it cooled, it only takes about 5 minutes until the car is at temperature.
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Another question, Everything is working better except for the pre-conditioning. I have it set for 6:10am and for the last two days I've got out in the garage about 5:30 am and the car is pre-conditioning. When I went in the garage at 4:30 the car was off so I don't know what time it started pre-conditioning. But having it set for 6:10, there's no reason for it to start 45 minutes before that. The time is correct now as when it's charged and texts me it has the correct time stamp. What could be the reason it's not pre-conditioning as the correct time ?
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I'll try another battery disconnect. It seems to only do it when at home, but my Verizon has full signal and At&t works great here too. Thanks
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The car was charged and sitting there silently. No matter what time I set the GO time for, as soon as I turned the car off it came back on and started pre-conditioning. It’s also intermittent with the syncing when I start the app, sometimes it syncs and sometimes it says update failed. Not sure why it’s doing this.
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Another weird thing now with the GO times, I'm guessing the time is correctly set now cause when the car is charged the text it sends me the time stamp is the same time as the current time. BUT now I just set a GO time for 15 minutes from the current time, when I turned off the car it came back on and started pre-conditioning. I thought maybe it's so close so it started now. I changed it to another hour from now and same thing happened. I changed it to 3 hours from now and it still came on when I shut off the car. I have no idea why it doing this and also why sometime the app sync update fails and sometimes it works.
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Sorry, yes I moved to Arizona. Also, the app is not working much anymore. I’m constantly getting update failed. Sometimes it will still let me start the car but mostly it will not. I’m going to do the battery disconnect thing again and reboot the modem and see what happens. I really wish the app would work correctly. And don’t know if this is normal, but when the app did connect it would always take about 20-30 seconds until it synced with the car. Just seems like a long time to connect to the car.
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I got in the car at 4:30 Arizona time and I bumped up the time to 5:30 then hit the GPS time reset and it went to back 4:30. Does that mean it is correct now, I guess I’ll find out in the morning when I test a precondition. And does it matter if I have auto time zone update on off ?