dperreno

I just had to call the dealer, they looked up my car, ordered the part and called me a couple of days later to make an appointment. Had it replaced Monday. Washed the car for me too, but didn't charge it. That's ok, I'm just happy that they got it done in a day and it was waiting for me when I stopped by after work. I, too, found that MFM is not updating the miles. It is reporting 0 miles for me, which is what the car was at when I dropped it off (seems consistent with what others have seen). I just now deleted the car using the MFM website and am adding it back in. Have to wait 24 hours to get it reactivated. I'll let you know if that fixes it.

I had a similar issue with the blinking ring and the prompts about being plugged in several times last month, as did a co-worker. It seemed to happen after charging at a particular bank of chargers at work over the course of a couple of weeks. After a couple of restarts and/or charging at home, the issue would go away only to return after I charged from those chargers. I haven't had the problem in a couple of weeks now, so I would recommend that you see if it seems to be related to the specific charging station that you are using, and so perhaps reporting the issue to the charge station owner.

I know that this is a bit late, but... You say TSB is for Energi "built in 2013." If that is what it really says, then yes, your 2014 Model Year Energi could well be covered, since the 2014 MY vehicles were built from around July, 2013 - June 2014. If the TSB is for 2013 Model Year Energis, then it is less likely to apply, but might be worth checking.

The last letter of the suffix is incremented with each design change, so AH is more recent than AG.

Wow, that's great! I didn't think it was possible using the existing screen -- I wonder if it includes a new 8" screen as well? Speaking for myself, it's more than I'm willing to spend on the upgrade, get it down to $1k and I'll think about it. But I'm happy to see that it is possible and available to those willing to spend the cash.

I bought a Nissan charger and upgraded it myself using instructions on the web. Cost me $250 for the charger on eBay and $20 for a cord and crimp connectors. Only 12 amps, but works fine for my Fusion as that is as much as it can take anyway.

The Ford/EPA estimate is 19 miles, not 21. Also, it is a mixed commute cycle, which I'm sure includes a lot of in-town speeds (45mph and below). I have an 18 mile commute each way, about 11 miles on the freeway (50-70mph), and I can make it most days all electric. This is in Detroit and I bought the car used in November with 20k miles on it, so I am talking winter weather, temps from 50 degrees down to 10 degrees. As it has warmed up around here lately, I've been getting home with up to 5 miles of estimated range left (~20% SOC). There is an alternate route to work that I sometimes take which is about 5 miles longer, but all surface streets (max 50 mph). I can usually make it home using that route also, even though it is longer, but no 70mph highway driving. This is Detroit, so it is pretty flat - no hills. Oh, and this is all with the heat off. If I have to turn on the heat, then my range is can be cut in half. So that is my experience, I hope it helps.

I can't tell what broke off from your picture. All that really matters is that the contacts are properly aligned and undamaged - if it plugs in and the car charges, you should be fine.

Note that all of the Hybrid components, including the HVB, have an 8 year, 100,000 mile warranty.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'm going to have to take it in. The charge rate seems to vary on a single ESVE, starting out fast and then slowing down. 2 days ago it charged relatively quickly at home, but then last night it took 5 hours. The temperatures here have been in the 20's (below freezing), but I suppose that the high capacity battery could still become overheated if the fans were not working properly. When I had it in for service last week, they did repair some chafing of the battery fan harness wires, perhaps one or more of the wires was inadvertently broken or severed. Who knows. Back it goes...

And now it is charging at the slower speed again: I got 4.5 kwh in 3.5 hrs of charging. I get the first 4 hours of charge time free here at work, so I moved my car between meetings, that's why I didn't charge it all the way. Any ideas anyone?

I watched the progress in terms of both % of charge (using myfordmobile) and kwh (using the gewattstation app). It was charging at about 1kwh/hr as opposed to the ~2.5 kwh/h rate of the level 2 charger.

Update: I did the system reset and now my car is charging at the faster speed as it should! I did have to re-link the car to My Ford Mobile, so it'll be 24 hours before I can check on the charge status using my phone app, but that's ok, I'm just happy it is working the way it should.

This just started this week - coincidentally when my 12V battery went bad. Last weekend, I was checking the 12V battery by unplugging my car after it had fully charged and then coming back 5-6 hours later and checking the voltage (via a voltage meter plugged into the power point outlet). The voltage was down to 8.8V! I plugged the car back in and on Monday I drove to work. Here is where it got interesting. We have L2 chargers at work so I snagged a spot and plugged in. Instead of charging to full in 2 hours or so, it took almost 6 hours. I chalked it up to the weak 12V battery. I took the car in to the dealer on Monday and left it with them for a couple of days. I forgot to mention the slow charge. I got the car back yesterday (Thursday). They said the 12V battery was bad and it was replaced. When I picked up my car, the 12V was fine, but the large battery was at 0%. Gee, thanks for charging it up for me. I got home and plugged it in to my L2 charger - it took 5 hours to charge. Drove to work this morning and... that's right 5 hours! I'm going to try doing a system reset this weekend, and if that doesn't work, it's going back to the dealer. In the mean time, I'm open to suggestions...

Convenience: Just do it - you'll be happy you did! Cost: Just to reiterate, it shouldn't cost you $1,000 for a level 2 EVSE. You can get a 16 amp charger for under $400 (Clipper Creek), and you should be able to get an electrician to wire up a 240V outlet or junction box for $200-$300, so $700 max. If you already have a convenient 240V outlet, or if your breaker panel is in or near your garage, you can reduce or eliminate the additional charge for the outlet.

This morning it was about 30 degrees F outside when I got in my car to drive to work. The HVAC was on set to Auto. I am fairly certain that it was turned off last night when I parked the car and hooked it up to charge. I tried turning it off using the soft-touch button, and I would get a beep, but the HVAC would not turn off. I then opened the HVAC on the touchscreen and turned it off there, and it did turn off. Then, within 10 seconds, it turned itself on again. I turned it off, it turned itself on. This probably happened around 5 times before it finally remained off. This has happened to me once or twice before, but not recently. Has anyone else had this happen to them?

I have Go Times set up for each weekday morning to warm the car before I go to work. Yesterday morning the car was cold - the Go Time had not been implemented. I checked the app and the Go Time was still there, the car just ignored it. When I got to work and shut the car off, I got the "12 Volt Battery is Low" message, even though the car had been plugged in overnight. I plugged it in at work to charge and I haven't seen the message again, but I'll have to admit that I'm a bit worried. It's good to know that the Remote Start procedure can sometimes be used to revive the car.

You say Ford "will NOT" offer an upgrade kit, I say Ford "cannot." Sync 3 is a completely different system from My Ford Touch. It runs on a different operating system (Blackberry's QNX vs. Microsoft's Windows Embedded Auto), it uses different chipsets, and the touch screen technologies are different (capacitive touch screen instead of resistive). The only way to upgrade a My Ford Touch vehicle would be to swap out the entire system, which just isn't feasible, especially when you consider that My Ford Touch is offered on Ford's entire vehicle lineup. An upgrade kit is not the type of thing that any OEM presently offers or is likely to offer in the future. Aside from certain performance add-ons, OEMs are not in the business of upgrading their vehicles. They provide for fixing and maintaining your current car, but if you want an upgrade (different engine or transmission, optional heated seats, etc), you have to get that when you buy the car or wait until you buy your next one. Electronics work the same, BTW. You want the Apple interface, you buy an iPhone. While it may seem to some that this is a money grab by Ford to get you to buy a new car, to me it is an acknowledgement that the My Ford Touch was not meeting customer expectations, and the best way to fix that for future customers was to toss the old and go with the new.

Not exactly. If the battery has any dead cells, then those cells (or the entire battery) will be replaced. Loss of capacity over time (or more accurately vs. # of charging cycles) is a known phenomenon and no, it isn't covered. I couldn't find any information on what would constitute a "normal" amount of degradation for Li-Ion battery packs, but the DOE did test a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid NiMH battery and found a degradation of only 8% over 160,000 miles of on-road fleet testing. http://avt.inl.gov/pdf/hev/batteryfusion4757.pdf Now I will grant you that this is an apples and oranges comparison since the test was of a NiMH battery in a hybrid-only vehicle vs. our Li-Ion battery in a plug-in electric hybrid, but to the best of my knowledge Li-Ion batteries are no worse than NiMH when it comes to capacity loss vs. cycles. I spent quite a bit of time looking for comparative data, but I couldn't find any - the best I could do was to find qualitative comparisons which described both NiMH and Li-ion to have "High" lifetimes vs. other battery chemistries. I also found a document from Johnson Controls stating that they design their battery packs with an expected 10 year lifetime (which correlates to more like a 15-20 design requirement). The Fusion and C-Max Energi vehicles use this JCI battery pack. http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/us/en/products/power-solutions/products/lithium-ion/plugin-hybrid-electric.html Some people have reported a 25-30% drop in capacity and ev range after about two years of 2 level 2 charges per work day. That is indeed a very large drop. I would like to see the results of a capacity test on their batteries to verify the loss. That would represent around 1,000 charge cycles, or around 20,000 EV miles (max), and I know that I would consider that to be completely unacceptable. If it were 25-30% loss after 100k miles? Still not good, but I probably would not be that upset about it. 8% after 160k miles? Totally fine. My car has just shy of 20,000 miles on it (I have no idea how many EV as I bought it used) and I have been getting 19 - 23 miles of range in Michigan in November (and a little over half of my 18 mile commute is at 70mph). A complete charge from zero miles runs around 6.5kwh input (before losses), which is in line with the published capacity. At the end of the day, I guess we are all going to have to just wait and see both how the batteries perform, and how Ford handles their warranty claims - such is the fate of the early adopter.

What stevedebi said - having an L2 charger makes a world of difference for me. I have an 18 mile commute each way and free L2 charging at work (I work for Ford!), so by the time I get home after work, I am out of charge. With my L2 charger, I can plug in at 6pm and by 7pm I have 8-9 miles of range available to go to the grocery store, run errands, etc. Same thing on the weekend. As to pampering the battery with late night charging times, I don't bother. I don't get a discount to charge after hours and I figure that Ford has designed in enough safeguards to maximize the battery life, seeing as they warrant it for 8 years / 100,000 miles. I also live in Michigan, so my car doesn't regularly see the kind of high temperatures that are common in the south and west.

I brought my FFE in for an oil change and to have a second fob programmed and they performed this repair. It took awhile. I'm in metro Detroit and it is snowing as I type, so probably good that I got this done.

2015 is the first year that the Mondeo has a common bodystyle with the Fusion, so the only possibilities would be for a '15 or '16 Mondeo headlight to use in the current Fusion.

Although this post is a little old, it answered my question! I just got my 2014 Fusion Energi last week and this morning I drove to Home Depot (about 1 mile). When I left Home Depot, the ICE started up and kept running until I stopped at a light about 3/4 of a mile down the road. I was in EV Now mode. I couldn't figure out why the engine was running - the display just said "for performance" or "for normal operation" or something unhelpful. Reading this thread, I remembered that I put the transmission into L as I was leaving the parking lot. Since the car was almost fully charged, that must have triggered the ICE to start. I'll have to remember that!

Hi. I'm reviving this thread to suggest the Saris Bones RS rack (https://www.saris.com/product/bones-rs). It is a trunk-mounted 3-bike rack that fits on almost any vehicle. It takes only a couple of minutes to install using two built-in steel straps with ratchets. It has a key lock to lock the rack to your trunk. I've used it on everything from small cars up to full size vans (mounts to the rear door just fine). I've been able to pick them up used for around $150 on ebay or craigslist. The only vehicles it doesn't work with are ones with a spoiler mounted right on the top edge of the trunk lid (Energi Titanium?), and some hatchbacks with a long reach to the top edge of the hatch. (e.g. the straps aren't long enough for my Mazda 6 hatchback). For those, the hitch-mount might be a better choice.