larryh

You also get EV miles from regen and when the ICE charges the battery. I think you need to do the following to compute what you want: Reset the trip odometer. Assuming you run in EV mode until the battery is depleted, note the mileage and kWh used when the ICE first turns on. Those kWh should be used to compute how much electricity you used to charge the battery and to compute the electricity cost. However, the kWh will probably also include some regen miles resulting in kWh that did not come from the power company. So I think the only way to do this correctly is to measure the actual kWh from the power company used to charge the battery. In addition, any additional kWh used or EV miles driven while in Hybrid mode were provided by the ICE burning gasoline and not the power company. So I think the electric cost that you are computing is too low (you are including ICE regen miles in the calculation). For the fuel economy in hybrid mode, you want to take the total miles driven and subtract the initial EV mode mileage until the ICE turned on, and then divide that by the gas consumed. Consequently, I think the ICE mileage cost that you are computing is too high--you need to include the ICE regen miles. Larry

I don't think that is the way you want to calculate your fuel cost savings. A gasoline engine is only 1/3 as efficient as a electric motor--your calculations fail to take this into account. Assume that you can get 21 miles on a full battery charge. I think you can use about 7 kWh before you enter hybrid mode. So that works out to about 3 miles/KWH. You used 60.51 kWh or went about 180 miles on electric power. If you used a normal gas powered car that gets 40 mpg, that would be 4.5 gallons of gas. I don't know how you are getting $3.469/gallon. I just checked the stations in my area, it is $4.299/gallon. So with a gas car, you would have spent $19.35. You saved $10 with the Energi. Note power companies generally raise the rate during the summer months. My company charges $0.115445/kWh during the summer and $0.10144 the rest of the year.

I called the dealer I bought the car from the other day and verified that the Ford ESP warranty was entered into the system. So, yes the prices from Anderson-Koch are for real.

I would ask the dealer to make sure that the car has the latest software that controls the battery and engine systems installed and to reset the system to restore the car to its original state when it was manufactured in case any of the data the car has stored is corrupted. That would at least help decide if the problem is with the software or hardware. See the above post.

Yes, the ICE is very efficient. On my last 56 mile trip driving mostly on freeways/highways, the ICE used 0.77 gallons of gas. 20 miles were in EV mode. So that works out to 46 mpg in hybrid mode. I'm not sure what I would get in city driving. So far, that has all been in EV mode. I just read the local news. Gas prices are now $4.19 per gallon.

I was trying to determine whether the Fusion Energi or Hybrid would be better for my winter commute to work, so I researched this topic. The major differences that factored into my consideration were the Energi's larger battery, plug in capability, and electric heater for the engine coolant. I was convinced that being able to warm up the car using the electric heater and power from the power company was a much better option when going to work from home. However, I wasn't so sure about the return trip home since I don't have a place to plug the car in. I will probably have to remote start the car and let the electric heater warm up the car before I leave work. That might not leave me enough charge to get home without starting the ICE. But the alternative would be to let the ICE start to warm up the car. However, I suspect the electric heater is going to come on anyway to warm the car up as fast as possible. As with all gas engines, I suspect it will have poor fuel efficiency in the winter. I will have to experiment to find out the optimal strategy next winter. I was experimenting with the Run Power Active Mode, when you don't press the brake before pressing the start button. It was cold, so I had the electric heater going with the car plugged in using the 110 volt charger. The battery charge was low and getting lower--the charger could not keep up. Then to my dismay the ICE started. I was parked in the garage with the door closed. I would not expect the ICE to run in Run Power Active Mode. It should shut off the heater first rather than starting the engine. In a normal car, the engine would never start in accessory mode. I am going to get a 240 volt charger. Otherwise, warming up the car, even when it is plugged in, is going to drain the battery in the winter. Winter is when I need a fully charged battery the most to minimize the use of the ICE.

The Fusion Energi has an electric heater to heat the engine coolant. It has a main electric pump to circulate the coolant for the engine, and smaller pumps to circulate the coolant to the inverter and the cabin heater core. So the car can be warmed up with battery power alone. Note that the generator serves as the starter for the ICE. If it is not too cold and the battery has enough charge, the ICE does not need to start (at least when it is in the upper 20's from experience). However, you are not going to get high EV mileage when it is cold. I suspect the ICE will start when it is really cold (since the battery is not going to work well when it is cold) and it will warm up just like any other car. If you can find a charging station at the airport, you could warm up the car using power from the power company and save your battery for propulsion (I don't suppose that would be an option if you are leaving the car there for a while). I notice the following from the owners manual: Possible Message on the information Display: Transmission Warming Up Please Wait: Transmission is too cold. Wait for it to warm up before you drive. Why does my engine stay on when it is extremely cold outside? In order to ensure that the climate control system can begin heating the cabin or defrosting the windshield as soon as a driver requests it, the engine coolant temperature has to be kept sufficiently hot. Keeping the engine on is required to maintain the correct minimum temperature. (For Fusion Energi vehicles, this is not required to maintain cabin conditions.) Engine On due to Batt Temperature (Energi Only) The engine is on due to high or low high-voltage battery temperature. This is a normal operating condition. The vehicle returns to electric mode automatically when possible. It appears the only reason the ICE needs to start is if the battery is too cold. I wonder how a pure electric car handles this?

I would set the Display Units for Fuel Economy to Fuel + Electric so that the car displays MPGe and then monitor the MPGe for your trips. When I get more than 21 EV miles from the battery, the MPGe for the trip, when I turn off the car, is around 135 to 150 MPGe. If I have the heater or air conditioner on, the MPGe is more like 95 and I am lucky to achieve 19 EV miles. Larry

The dealer I purchased the car from said they could not offer me the Ford ESP warranty at that price and offered to sell me a more expensive warranty ($1400) from another company instead. So I went to another local dealer (the one I mentioned above). I asked how they could offer it at that price while my other dealer could not. He stated that they are not making much money and that the dealer I bought that car from could offer me the warranty at that price. I have a signed copy of the warranty. I went to the dealership and purchased it. This is the dealer that I used previously to service my old car. I have not yet checked to see if it is entered into Ford OASIS tracking system yet so other dealers would recognize it. I will have to ask. Larry

I purchased the Ford ESP PremiumCARE 7 year/75000 mile plan with a $200 deductible from a local dealer for $900. Their web site is http://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com/. There are several other Ford dealers that have web pages for Ford ESP.

They now all close after performing the calibration. Thank you.

Has anyone tried Global Opening and Closing with the remote control. After unlocking the doors with the remote control, if you press and hold the unlock button on the remote control it opens the moonroof and all the windows. That works fine on my car. Then pressing the lock button on the remote control is supposed to close all the windows and the moonroof. On mine, it fails to close the front windows. I have to go inside the car and press the buttons to close them.

Ford recommends a dedicated outlet for the 120v charger. The charger takes 12 amps. I do not have a dedicated outlet in my garage. It is a 15 amp circuit that includes the garage and laundry room lights and outlets. I have not had any issues with having the lights on and the washer/dryer (gas) going at the same time as charging.

I just set it to MPGe to see what I was getting for EV mode driving around town: 133 MPGe. I wasn't expecting it to be that high. I will have to check again.

In the left information display select settings, then display, then units, and for fuel economy, select fuel only.

I think you can file an updated W4 form to claim additional witholding allowances now for the $3751 tax credit on your 2013 tax form. You will have to go through the instructions to determine how many additional allowances you can claim.

If you change your mind about the Ford ESP, you can at any time, cancel the contract and receive a prorated amount of the purchase price plus a $75 processing fee (provided the dealer is still in business). Or you can transfer the warranty to the new owner. Larry

I have had three prior cars. The first one, a 1981 Dodge Aries, I purchased an extended warranty (they were only about $400 back then), but never used it. That was a waste of money. So, on my two subsequent cars, a 1996 Mercury Tracer and a 2006 Ford Fusion, I never purchased an extended warranty. I had no repairs to those cars either that would have used the extended warranty had I had it. So I came out ahead. All repairs (relatively minor) on the 3 cars occurred during the basic warranty. However, the Energi is much more complex and technologically advanced than those cars. There are more systems in this car than any of my previous cars and a lot more that could go wrong.

One thing to note, I asked the dealer about the pricing of the Ford ESP. The warranty price for the 2013 Ford Fusion is apparently the same for all models and options. So people who purchase a warranty for an Energi are getting a bargain versus the people who purchase a warranty for a normal gas-powered Fusion.

Yes--I chose the PremiumCare with a $200 deductible. PremiumCare covers just about everything. I am buying this to cover expensive repairs, like a $1200 computer module. So $200 deductible is OK with me--hopefully I don't have to use it. However, there is a lot of stuff that can go wrong. On my 2006 Ford Fusion, I had absolutely no repairs. A warranty would have been a waste of money.

Does anyone know many kW each tick mark on the Enlighten, Engage, and Empower displays represent? It shows the units as being in kW, but it does not display any numbers besides the tick marks. Similarly, how many kW does each tick mark on the vertical display to the right in the Energy Use display represent? The only display that labels the tick marks seems to be the Climate energy use display--each tick market represents 1 kW. I suspect that each tick mark in the other displays represent far more than 1 kW. There are 5 tick marks. If each represented 1 kW, then at maximum power the car would run for 7.6 kWH / 5 kW = 1.52 hours in EV mode. At max power, going 90 mph, that would amount to 140 miles of EV range, which is not correct. Also, the maximum "depletion" power output of the car is 195 HP = 145 kW. I would expect the maximum power shown by the gauges to be at least 150 kW.

Thanks for the post. Note that you can buy an extended warranty for the car from several dealers via the internet. I too was concerned about all that technology might be expensive to repair. I purchased a 7 year/75000 mile Ford ESP warranty from a local dealer for $900 on Friday (http://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com/). I consider one of the more important features of the Energi, in addition to plug in capability, to be preconditioning. You can remote start the vehicle, or set the Go Times for when you plan to leave, with the vehicle plugged in. The car will use electricity from the charging station to prepare the battery and the passenger compartment temperature. Warming the car on a cold day can use a lot of power from the battery (5 kW). Also, I'm not sure that the battery works as efficiently when it is cold. Its very nice to have the car fully charged, all warmed up, and ready to go on a cold day. I'm not sure how much air conditioning uses--it hasn't been warm enough to use it yet. This significantly extends the range of EV mode of operation.

I fixed my post above after you read it.

I would make sure that what is displayed in the hybrid settings on the touch screen in the car for charge settings matches what is shown by MyFord Mobile. I'm not sure what happens when they are out of sync. I don't know if MyFord Mobile will reset the car back to the settings made in the MyFord Mobile application or MyFord Mobile will accept the new settings made on the touch screen. If I want to the car to charge immediately and it doesn't, I usually go to the touch screen charge settings and select value charge and then charge now. I make sure that the touch screen says that charging is active. I notice many times that the display says charging when value times is selected and it should be waiting until night to charge, and vice versa, it says waiting to charge when charge now is selected. To get it to do what I want, I select the opposite setting and then the correct setting. That usually clears the problem. You might have a wait a while for it to respond though.

There is an interesting document at http://www.motorcraf...DSM1302_HEV.pdf that might help if you read the introduction section.