larryh

Yes, both the gas engine and electric motor provide power to the wheels. Then can both contribute simultaneously, or just one or the other can contribute. When the battery is depleted, the car turns into a hybrid and car functions similarly to the Fusion Hybrid.

The charge extracted from the battery in the graph above is about 21.7 Ah. That is far less than 650 Ah for a normal deep cycle car battery. But this battery does not have to crank a starter to start the ICE. The HVB starts the ICE. The engineers at Ford must have analyzed the power requirements for the battery and determined that this one was adequate under a given set of assumptions. However, the assumptions may have been too optimistic for the way the car is actually used or they failed to consider all contingencies. The HVB must be carefully monitored and controlled by the battery control module. That is a very expensive battery and you don't want to damage it. For example, the battery temperature must not exceed 113 degrees F. Something has to power the battery control module to control the energy being extracted from that battery. The energy cannot be extracted until the control module is powered up. The only way to do that is to use a separate 12 V battery.

So 0.8 amperes is only a 12*0.8 = 10 watt load? That's not much of a load. But I would hope that it would usually draw a lot less than that when it is off. What should the graph look like for a car battery?

From this data, I am guessing you had 26.8 EV miles from plug-in energy and 2.2 hybrid miles. That matches the data in my other posts for average speed of around 54 mph. The most plug-in energy I have observed used from the battery is 5.9 kWh. You got 6.1 kWh for the first trip. I wonder if you average lower power usage during the trip, you can extract more energy from the battery. You had good driving scores.

There are three tabs at the top after selecting view all: Value Charge Profiles, My Charge Locations, and My GO Times. Select My Charge Locations and click the circled blue x to the right of the location to delete.

In MFM, select view all under value charge profiles and then my charge locations. Click on the circled x on the location to delete.

For all batteries it takes more energy to charge the battery than you can get of the battery. In addition, during the charging process, the on-board electronics must run to monitor and control charging along with the battery cooling fans. This take additional 60 watts of power. With a 240 volt charger, the charging time is reduced. So you won't have to run the on-board electronics or fans as long. So you should use less electricity and hence get more efficient charging. Note that there is no way to get any energy out of the HV battery unless you power the on-board battery control module. The 12 V battery is the only means of providing this power. The 12 V battery is supposed to be adequate to provide the power to start the car under normal conditions. You're not supposed to have to worry about a dead 12 V battery.

You can always delete incorrect charge locations. You home address should show up in the charge locations when you charge from home. You can then name it as your home charging profile.

The manuals are available at the following link: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/SPubs/default.asp?pageid=oghome&gutsid=spubs_serv_all_new&TYPE=OWNERGUIDE&menuIndex1=11, The old and new manuals are the first and third printings of the 2013 Fusion Hybrid/Energi manuals.

You could use your actual electric rate which is zero. You have no electricity costs so you will have very low operating costs for the car. I get a lot of free electricity too. But I haven't taken that into account in Fuelly. I simply use my standard electricity rate for all the plug-in energy.

Thanks meyersnole! I wanted to find a way to reduce the gas consumed on my 56.5 mile one-way weekend commutes. Using these results, I have been able to reduce the gas consumed for the one-way commutes from 0.8 gallons to about 0.6 gallons in my most recent trips. And now following my weekend commutes, MFM shows my EV range to be 31 miles. That goes down during the week with my commutes to work.

Are you driving any different lately than before? If you are completely frustrated with MFM, you could always do a master reset of MyFord Touch/Sync and erase all the previous data so it has to compute your EV range from scratch, on the remote possibility there could ever be bugs in the Sync software ;) and it is now confused by the transition from a 120 V to a 240 V charger. What charger voltage did you specify in MFM in the charge profiles? If you do a master reset, then you are going to have restore all of the settings that you modified back into MyFord Touch, re-pair your phone, and reconnect to MFM.

I let the car sit two days after charging on Friday morning. The 12 V battery was down to 12.45 V on Sunday from 12.65 V when fully charged. The HV battery was at 100% charge. I plugged in the charger. The charging ring turned on for about a minute and then turned off. I observed that the charger drawing 160 watts of electricy and slowly ramping down to 60 watts. It was apparently topping off the HV battery and charging the 12 V battery. The voltage on the battery monitor was at 14.45 V. After about two hours, charging stopped. The 12 V battery is now at 12.85 V. So apparently, even if the HV battery is fully charged, the car will charge up the 12 V battery when plugged in. However, I doubt that once charging stops and all the electronics in the car for charging turn off that they would ever turn back on again without some sort of trigger. Plugging the car in (or turning on power to the charger with the car plugged in) and starting the car are the only triggers that I know of. I don't know if GO times would trigger the charger to begin charging the 12 V battery if the charge was low. SYNC has the capability to install downloadable apps. I wish someone would come up with some apps that we could install to better control charging of the car and monitor what is going on. For instance, it would be nice to have an app that displays the temperature of the HV battery.

If you look in the C-Max forum, you will see that may people get identical results to what I get. They all get 1.4. At least for the 120 volt charger, the results are consistent.

The MPG reported by the car seems to be accurate. I reset the trip 1 odometer whenever I refuel. Last time, the pump shut off 0.1 gallons before the amount shown on the odometer. So I simply added an additional 0.1 gallons to match the amount displayed on the console. I have a spreadsheet that calculates the amounts to enter in Fuelly. It takes the gallons of gas G, amount paid for the gas C, kWh of plug-in energy displayed on the trip 1 odometer since I last refueled E, the distance traveled on the trip 1 odometer D, and the rate for electricity R. The equivalent gallons of electricity is: Ge = 1.4 * E / 33.705. The cost for electricity is: Ce = 1.4 * E * R, The total energy cost is Ct = C + Ce (gas cost plus electricity cost), So, I enter in the Fuelly gallons field: Gt = G + Ge (the gallons of gas plus equivalent gallons of electricity), I enter in the Fuelly Price/Gallon field: Ct / Gt (the total energy cost divided by the total equivalent gallons). I determined the 1.4 factor by plotting the plug-in energy displayed on the console vs. how much electricity, measured using a Kill A Watt meter at the outlet, is used to recharge the battery over a two month period using the 120 volt charger.

The MPGe reported by the car is not correct. When computing MPGe, you are supposed to measure the amount of electricity consumed at the wall outlet. The car measures the amount of electricity that is extracted from the battery. There are losses associated with charging the battery and then with discharging the battery to propel the vehicle. If you are using the 120 volt charger that came with the car, the actual amount of electricity from the wall outlet used to charge the car is 1.4 times that reported by MyFord Mobile. So, in your case, it will require 1.5*1.4 = 2.1 kWh of electricity to recharge the battery. Your actual MPGe is 194 / 1.4 = 139 MPGe.

As stated in the manual, and as others have reported, the ICE comes on with Grade Assist when the battery is full to maintain constant speed. It turns on in a mode that uses no fuel. It may startle you.

I believe that L and D are identical except that L has more agressive regen. You can use L at any speed. It will just slow you down faster than D when you let up on the gas pedal. The manual states that you can shift into L at any vehicle speed. But if you are using L and let off the gas to slow down, I'm not sure that your brake lights will go on to warn drivers following you.

I believe the grade assist attempts to maintain the current speed during downgrades by using regen. L uses a more aggressive regen than D. When you coast in L or D, it uses regen to slow you down. L slows you down faster. Put another way, lifting your foot from the gas pedal is another type of "braking" via regen in either D or L. You get more braking when in L. If you want to maximize EV range, coasting should be used when you want to intentionally slow the car down. Otherwise, try to maintain constant speed.

I am glad it was a simple fix to the problem and that you finally now have the chance to enjoy your new car. I don't think anyone is going to be awarded any accolades for their diagnostic skills for this. More training is in order--they need to have a better understanding of how things work. I would hope the field engineer knew his stuff and immediately diagnosed the problem.

First of all, look at the Coach display on the console at each of the individual Acceleration, Braking, and Cruising scores. You will need to determine what technique you need to work on the most. If it is cruising, then you are driving too fast. I think you need to stay below 60 to get a relatively good score there.

EV miles include the regen miles. If you drive entirely in EV mode, you will see as an example in MyFord Mobile: Trip Distance = 7.8 miles, EV miles = 7.8 miles, regen miles = 2.6 miles. So the 7.8 EV miles includes 2.6 regen miles.

You probably turned the climate control on. That will reduce your EV range shown on the console. The AC and heater can consume significant amounts of energy and reduce your EV range. The information sent to MyFord mobile does not contain climate settings. So the estimate at MyFord Mobile is for when the climate control is off.

I submitted a question at the MyFord Mobile web site asking why the car was drawing 60 watts of power waiting to charge when the charge settings were set to value charge. I have a Kill A Watt electricity meter attached to the outlet I use for the 120 volt charger that came with the car. They called me back a week later stating that the electricity is used to power the modules used to charge the HV battery and also to charge the 12 V battery while waiting to begin charging the HV battery. I suppose the control modules require similar power to a PC to operate. Most 30 amp chargers cost about the same, so pick the one with the features that you want. There is a 20 and a 30 amp charger for about $600, but they don't have the features of the Versicharge. I am considering the Versicharger charger for its delay feature. I don't want the charger to consume any power during peak electric rates. So Value Charge is not of much use to me.