larryh

MPG and MPGe are almost identical in hybrid mode. To compute the average for your three days, you need to do the same calculations as you did for an indivdual day. Compute the gas for each day: 137.3/41 = 3.35 17.8/35 = 0.51 52.4/62 = 0.85 Then the MPG is (137.3 + 17.8 + 52.4) / (3.35 + 0.51 + 0.85) = 207.5 / 4.71 = 44 MPG.

If you took 4 trips during a day and wanted the average MPG for the day, you would need to compute the number of gallons of gas used for each individual trip. To compute the gallons for each individual trip, take the miles for the trip and divide by the MPG for the trip. Add up the distances for each of the trips and then divide this total by the sum of the gallons for each trip. That is your average MPG for that day. We can also estimate the MPG for the days that you used plug-in energy if you display the results for MFM for those days.

My Ford Mobile displays the MPG or MPGe for each trip. You can deduce how much gas you used from MPG or MPGe values. For the days with no charging, you can see how many miles per gallon you got in hybrid mode directly from MFM.

It takes a lot longer than a few seconds for everything to shut down. The battery voltage will slowly rise from 12.2 V to 12.6 V after about 20 minutes when everything shuts down and stabilizes. You have to wait that long to see the correct battery voltage. While things are on and loading the battery, the voltage will be less than 12.6 V. The car doesnt always start charging the 12 V battery immediately after you plug it in. It starts after the 12 V battery has been sufficiently depleted. Your car is doing what I would expect.

As soon as you turn the car on, the car starts charging the 12 V battery so you see 14.6 Volts. The voltage is going to drop after you turn the car off because things are still running and drawing power from the battery. Anytime there is a load on the battery, the voltage on the battery will fall. The higher the load, the more the decrease. You have to wait until everything turns off, which takes a couple of minutes, and things to stabilize before full voltage will return to the 12 V battery. I generally wait 20 minutes.

I just came back from a trip. I am not at home, so I have to use the 120 Volt charger. It will not complete charging until 10:00 pm. I noted the following 12 V battery voltage readings after plugging in the 120 V charger: 10 min - 12.63 V 20 min - 12.74 V 30 min - 14.31 V 40 min - 13.35 V 50 min - 13.38 V 60 min - 13.34 V 70 min - 13.34 V I am going to assume that it stays at 13.34 V for a while. It looks like it took 30 minutes before the battery was discharged enough for the car to decide to start charging. It initially charged at 14.31 Volts for ten minutes and then has now switched to 13.35 Volts for the rest of the time. I think discharging the battery using only the fog lamps will take too long. The other day I accidently discovered that starting the car with the charger plugged into the car, but the charger itself was not plugged into the outlet, the car would not charge the 12 V battery. I had all the accessories running, AC, lights, fans, radio, etc for more than 30 minutes before it displayed some message or other about energy conservation--probably turn power off to save battery? I think the voltage was around 11.7 V.

The voltage varies greatly while charging from 12.60 V to 14.45 V. I just depends on the SOC of the 12 V battery and various other unknown factors. I have recorded the voltage in the morning when starting off for work for the past week: 12.49, 12.48, 12.76, 12.68, 12.69, 12.9, 12.8, 12.77. The car was charged the previous evening. The voltages would, of course, be higher immediately after charging and during the night. To measure the voltage, I had to start and stop the car to enable the power points. I then waited 20 minutes for everything to shutdown and stabilize.

You should cool down the car while it is plugged in using power from the wall outlet via preconditioning. Either use GO times and set the cabin temperature or remote start the car with the climate controls set appropriately. Selecting the optimal EV Later vs. EV Auto/Now will not make much difference in the overall gas consumed--maybe at most 0.08 gallons. To realize this small savings, reserve EV for the slowest speeds.

The smoke detectors were 15 years old. I told the contractor that they did not work. The contractor told me that the city only checks to see that they are installed on each floor and in each bedroom and the hallway, and that they do not test them. Contractors, be it for home repairs or installing chargers, need to be aware of the inspection requirements and save everyone a lot of grief.

I don't know of many local companies near me that have charging stations installed for their employees. But it would be nice if more of them would do that. In the least, they could provide outlets for employees to use with their own chargers.

Yes, the inspectors may seem to be rather picky. But I don't want to have to go through the trouble and expense of a second inspection. I know that they will be looking at the labels on the Charger. So at least I have eliminated one potential violation that could fail the inspection. Last year I replaced the windows on my house. All the building inspector was interested in was testing my fire alarms. No one bothered to tell me that he would do that. I ended up having to replace all 8 of them and schedule another inspection. It makes me wonder if inspectors enjoy harassing homeowners and contractors. I complained to the officials (and the contractors) that I was not informed about the fire alarms, but that got me nowhere. They better only be looking only at the charger installation during this inspection and not pick some other random item that violates code. Otherwise, inspections can become very costly. The inspection permit should state clearly what the inspector is looking for.

The mileage is only an estimate. If you checked the HVB charge on the EV info screen, it should have been the same when your arrived and left work. Who knows all that it bases the estimate on? Maybe it doesn't save all the parameters that it uses to make the estimate when you turn the car off or some of them changed in the 8 hours.

You had to be quick, I observed this at about 4:00 am this morning. They have since restored the previous version.

Until everything turns off and stabilizes, I frequently see readings below 12 V. For the past 6 mornings, after charging the previous night, I have observed voltages between 12.49 and 12.9 V after waiting 20 minutes for things to stabilize. The lowest reading I have observed after the car sat for a couple of days is 12.35 V. If you are seeing 12.1 V after about 20 minutes after charging or running the car, that could be an indication that something is not turning off. I would continue to check it to see how rapidly it continues to fall over time. If the car is in fact not shutting down properly, you dealer should have caught that. Yes, the car shuts down the power points after a half hour or so, so you have to restart the car, close the doors, and wait 20 minutes to take a reading.

Everything is working as expected. I have the timer set to turn the charger off during peak hours from 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm. I have Value Charge enabled to start charging at 9:00 pm as a backup in case the clock for the timer is not set correctly. When I arrive home, the timer has turned off the charger. I plug in the car. Since the charger is off, nothing happens. At 9:00 pm, Value Charge attempts to charge the car. But the timer has not turned on the charger yet. So nothing happens (except I get an MFM alert stating that the car is not charging when expected). Then a little later, the timer powers up the charger and the car begins to charge. The HVB is charged as normal. I had a GO time set with the cabin temperature set to 65 degrees this morning. 15 minutes prior to the GO time the car starting running the AC. At the GO time, the car stopped running the AC. The HVB charge remained at 100%. With the 120 V charger, this would drain the HVB a small amount. So I am happy with the new setup. It is doing what I expected.

It looks like they updated the MyFord Mobile site this morning. There is now a new My Community tab on the main screen.

The wrench light could also indicate a charging fault. You would have to look at MFT EV info screen to see that. o Cluster - Upon a charger fault, the BCCM and BECM can request the P/T malfunction indicator on the instrument cluster (amber wrench light). No specific message to point to the charge system which is similar to other onboard requests for this telltale. o 8" Centerstack Screen - A charging fault message will be displayed in 8" centerstack.

I would estimate that the range of the car going a constant 40 mph is about 32.6 miles. The only way to get a high score for cruising and overall driving score is to keep the speed down.

I discovered one sure way to drain the 12 V battery. Leave the charger plugged into the car when the charger is unplugged from the wall outlet or turned off. Then start the car. The car will not charge the 12 V battery under these conditions. If you turn up the climate and accessories, it will quickly draw down the 12 V battery's charge. I was attempting to run down the HVB a little to experiment with value charge. After letting the car sit for several minutes, I noticed the car was displaying messages to turn something or other off to conserve power. The MFT display continued to show the HVB battery charge at 100% when it was actually 90%. I then turned the car off and unplugged the charger from the car and turned it back on. Now the car charges the battery and MFT displays the correct HVB battery charge.

I found the following labeling requirements for EVSE: The electric vehicle charging system shall be listed by a nationally recognized testing laboratory (i.e., UL) in compliance with UL 2202 "Standard for Electric Vehicle (EV) Charging System Equipment." (CEC 90.7) The electric vehicle charging system shall be installed in accordance with manufacturer’s guideline and shall be suitable for the environment (indoor/outdoor). If installed indoors, the charging station shall be labeled "Ventilation Not Required" in a location clearly visible after installation. (CEC 625.15) So one needs to check that the unit complies with these before inspection.

The audio system power usage is much less than AC. The AC uses from 0.5 kW to 5 kW. The audio system generally uses only a few watts (unless you turn it way up).

I plan to use Value Charge as a backup in case the time on the timer is off. The rates quoted above only apply to the separately metered circuit for an ESVE. Night and weekend/holiday rates are $0.0585. Peak rates during the week from 4 pm to 9 pm are $0.3785. All other hours are $0.10144. I simply don't charge the car from 4 pm to 9 pm on weekdays--I have no reason to do so. The rates for the rest of my home are $0.10144. I live in MN.

The 12 volt battery does not always charge the entire time the HVB is charging. Today, when the HVB started charging, the 12 V battery monitor read 12.73 V. A few minutes later, it was up to 13.38. What is important, is that when the car is turned off, you close all the doors, and you wait at least 20 minutes for the battery to stabilize, the voltage on the battery should be close to 12.6 V or more (provided you have charged the HVB within the past 8 hours).

The plug-in energy used displayed on the car's console is the amount of energy extracted from the HVB used to propel the vehicle and to power climate control and other accessories. No battery is 100% efficient, so you cannot extract the entire 7.6 kWh from the battery. In addition, the car will not allow you to completely drain the battery. 1.1 kWH of the battery capacity is reserved for hybrid operation. Generally, the car tries to keep the "hybrid battery" at about 50% charge. So you can use at most 7.6 - 1.1/2 = 7.05 kWh of battery capacity. The most plug-in energy used that I have observed is 5.9 kWh. That implies the battery is about 5.9/7.05 = 84% efficient in transforming the stored charged to electrical energy.

Yes, I plan to take the tax credit. It is worth $465 off the installation. I had previously adjusted the tax credits I claimed on the W4 form. The timer is set to turn the charger off from 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm during peak hours. My GO times are set for early in the morning. I rarely go anywhere after I get home from work so not charging during peak hours is fine with me. The timer can easily be overridden if I want to charge during peak hours. But at peak hour rates, it would be cheaper to use gas. It has cold load pick up, so there will be a randomized delay before charging begins when the timer turns the charger on. The charger is a high quality unit. It has an on/off switch and button to stop charging. It makes no noise and has a very thick/heavy cord for plugging into the car. The installation still requires inspection. Mr. Electric mentioned that he just installed two Ford Leviton chargers for a dealer. The inspector failed the installation because the chargers did not have a sticker on them stating that ventilation is not required. Obviously he was not amused since the dealer was quite far away. So he has to order a sticker from the manufacturer and go back to the dealer to put them on the chargers and have them reinspected. The first thing he checked was to verify that the Power Max charger already had all the required labeling.