larryh

But I wonder if that is all that it was doing. It charges the 12 V battery anytime it requires power from the charger, e.g. while waiting to start value charging. I can't be sure that it wasn't drawing power for some other reason, or it was just to recharge the 12 V battery.

Today it has been 0 all day long. It was about 20 degrees in the garage. Preconditioning took 45 minutes and consumed 2.2 kWh of electricity (about $0.15). That is better than taking 10 minutes to warm up the car using the ICE and consuming about 0.1 gallons of gas ($0.29). The car was nice and warm at the GO Time and I was able to go to work entirely in EV mode when set to EV Now. I had to turn on the climate and heater every once in a while to defog the windows. I was also able to drive entirely in EV mode, at least initially until the HVB was depleted (which didn't last very long), with the heater on after the car sat outside all day. For the 8 mile trip, it consumed almost 0.2 gallons of gas and 2.5 kWh of electricity (27 MPGe vs 150 MPGe in the summer). I'm not quite sure what the threshold is for disabling EV mode operation in the cold. I noticed yesterday when I charged the car, that after it had completed charging the HVB, it continued to consume power for another 2 hours. I'm not quite sure how much power it was taking, but it was probably around 100 Watts. I wonder what it was doing?

What would really be nice is if the car would remember your frequent routes and globally optimize energy consumption over the entire route. At the moment, it only optimizes consumption based on the current conditions. It doesn't know what is coming up next.

The energy shown on the console is the energy, in kWh, consumed by the car for climate, accessories, and propulsion. The extraction of energy from the high voltage battery is not 100% efficient. Perhaps, 10% is lost as heat. So you will not get the full 7.6 kWh of energy stored in the battery back. Also, discharging the battery completely will shorten its lifetime. You don't want to extract all the energy from the battery. EV+ mode is also not as effective when your destination is off a highway. Slowing down to turn into the destination significantly recharges the battery. And it is impossible to maintain speed without the ICE coming on. When I near the destination, I generally pulse the accelerator to force the ICE to bring the car up to speed and then let off on the accelerator. Then I use as much power as possible to maintain speed while keeping the power below the threshold that the ICE turns on. I may repeat this several times. I will be below the speed limit by the time I am at the destination. However, I am able to park with significantly less charge left in the hybrid battery than if it just drove normally.

The MyKey settings are programmed using the Admin key. MyKey users cannot override the settings that were made via the Admin Key. I would try programming the optional settings the way you want as described in the manual on page 48 using the admin key. I'm not sure if it will remember the settings for LKA. But I would not expect the LKA settings you mentioned above to be restricted options that require admin privileges.

I am seriously considering them. Did you mount them on the existing wheels, or did you purchase additional wheels for them? I see in you other post that you used the OEM wheels.

Fat Fusion, I see that you now have a Fuelly banner. It looks like you are only tracking gasoline consumption at Fuelly. I keep track of both gasoline and electricity consumption in Fuelly, converting kWh of electricity to equivalent gallons of gasoline using the formula equivalent gallons of gasoline = kWh of electricity / 33.705. I have a separately metered circuit for the charger, so I can easily keep track of the amount of electricity used. The meter records all electricity used by the car including energy used for preconditioning (which has been quite significant now with the recent cold weather), charging, and the standby power consumed by the charger. I have to manually track any additional electricity consumed when I charge somewhere other than at home. However, that electricity is generally free. So I don't include that in the total cost. But I do include it in the total kWh/equivalent gasoline consumed. I'm not sure how you are measuring the kWh of electricity you are consuming in the calculations above, but if you are using what the car reports, note that it is significantly under reporting the amount of energy consumed from the wall outlet.

Yes, MyFord Mobile has been updated to include various utilities/plans for value charging. Unfortunately, it doesn't include in the list of power companies my service provider. I find that MyFord Mobile does not always reliably sync changes made to value charging on MyFord Mobile with the car. Sometimes, it takes hours to complete the sync. But most of the time it is successful. You will just have to keep trying and eventually it will get it right. After the initial setup, fortunately, you should not have to change it any further.

There is no way, that I know of, to adjust the EV+ settings (other than turning it off). To use more charge from the hybrid battery, I choose a route with slower speeds, requiring less power, as I near my destination. If you set the left console to display the Empower screen, you can see the threshold at which the ICE will turn on. You can then adjust how you apply the accelerator to prevent the ICE from turning on. The hybrid battery and high voltage battery are the same battery. The car reserves 1.1 kWh of the entire 7.6 kWh capacity of the high voltage battery for hybrid mode. The remaining 6.5 kWh are used for EV operation. After the first 6.5 kWh are used during EV operation, the car now has the full 1.1 kWh of energy for the hybrid battery. So yes, the car charges the entire high voltage battery, including the portion reserved for hybrid mode.

The car doesn't seem to be doing a good job of recognizing the Intelligent Access Key this morning. I had to use the Keyless Entry Keypad to unlock the doors. And then insert the Intelligent Access Key in the backup slot in the console. It was only temporary. It works properly now.

Yesterday, it was -6. It was 16 degrees in the garage where I had preconditioned the car. I left the house in EV mode. Within a minute, the ICE came on, and EV now and EV later modes were disabled. They remained disabled for about 15 miles until the HVB was depleted. I'm not going to get the range that you do, since the speed limits on the streets for my commute to work are 55 mph. I drove the car 56 miles, so it was well warmed up. I then recharged the battery for a couple of hours. I was able to go entirely in EV mode after recharging the battery. So if the car is warmed up (as it would be in a heated garage), the ICE will probably not turn on.

This morning it is -13. The car has been sitting outside all night. MyFord Mobile now shows an EV range of 13 miles. Normally, in the summer it shows 25. EV Range has been reduced by half by the cold weather.

I drove yesterday until the gauge turned red and indicated below empty. The range remaining was 18 miles. It required 12.952 gallons of gas to refill the tank. The car stated it had used 11.97 gallons on the console. It was off by a gallon. If usable amount of fuel in the tank is 13.5 gallons, then I had 0.5 gallons left until running out of fuel. I could have gone another 20 miles. I would have run out of gas at about a remaining range of 0. On MyFord Mobile, it looks like the range calculation assumes 40 MPG and 13 gallons of gas. I just filled the tank, it shows 520 = 13 * 40 miles of range in hybrid mode.

This morning it was -6 degrees. In the garage, it was 16 degrees. Preconditioning started 50 minutes before the GO time. The car consumed 2.9 kWh of electricity using the 240 V charger. The temperature in the cabin only made it up to 43 degrees. Its better than 16 degrees. So even with a 240 V charger, the car has a hard time heating up the passenger compartment when it is very cold. At least I have a garage that is about 22 degrees warmer than outside to help. It probably wouldn't work well if the car was left outside in the cold in below zero weather. For my 57 mile weekend commute today, I got 39 MPGe. In the summer, it is in the 60s and 70s. The trip was only 31% EV. In the summer, it is usually in the 50s and 60s.

This morning, it was 6 degrees. I preconditioned the car in the garage (which was 24 degrees). The car was nice and warm. It consumed about 2.1 kWh of electricity and started preconditioning 40 minutes before the GO time. The ICE never came on for the drive to work, even with the heater on. I had the mode set to EV Now. On the way home, it was 8 degrees. The car was outside all day. The ICE started after a few minutes even with the climate control off and in EV Now mode. It cycled on and off periodically on the way home.

Are the bars showing the total cost for electricity usage during each hour? And the colors indicate the rate? I assume this is total electricity usage for the entire house. Those are high rates. My normal, fixed rate is $0.10144 / kWh for my home. I also have a separately metered circuit for the charging station with the following rates: June-August Weekday Weekend and Holidays 9 pm - 8 am 5.85 ¢ 5.85 ¢ 8 am - 4 pm 11.544 ¢ 5.85 ¢ 4 pm - 9 pm 37.85 ¢ 5.85 ¢ Other Months Weekday Weekend and Holidays 9 pm - 8 am 5.85 ¢ 5.85 ¢ 8 am - 4 pm 10.144 ¢ 5.85 ¢ 4 pm - 9 pm 37.85 ¢ 5.85 ¢

I use the Current Cost EnviR home energy monitor. It uses Current Transformer clamps to connect to the mains in the service panel or leads from a circuit breaker. It only measures current, so its accuracy is about 9%. It doesn't measure the voltage or the power factor (when I measure the power factor for the 120 V charger using the Kill-A-Watt meter, it usually reads between 0.99 to 1.00, so what I am really missing is the voltage which varies from 117.5 to 123.5 V, but is usually very close to 122.5 V). The transmitter sends a wireless signal to a monitoring unit which is attached to my computer via a serial USB cable. The results are then sent to a web server. I use it to monitor both the total home electricity usage from the mains to the service panel and the electricity supplied to the charging station using the leads from the circuit breaker. I also have an individual appliance monitor. I have calibrated the measurements from the EnviR against the power meters from the electric company to make it significantly more accurate, usually within 2%. At least the bill from the electric company closely matches the cost predicted by the monitor. Its main purpose is not to provide an accurate measurement of electricity usage, but to help you identify ways to reduce your electric bill, which it has done. I like the ability to see what is going on when I am away from home. By watching the charts that are produced, you can see when various things are turning on and off, such as the refrigerator, charging station, or furnace, as well as the current temperature in the house. So in the winter, when I am away, I won't come back to a frozen house. I also have a separately metered circuit for the charging station with a meter from the power company. So I can accurately measure the power and energy consumed when charging or preconditioning the car. But then I have to go outside and read it. The following chart is last night from about 8:30 pm to midnight. The small humps on the left are the refrigerator turning on and off. The spikes at the right are the furnace blower. The units are watts. The baseline should have been about 120 W. I forgot to completely turn off the home theater system which uses about 60 W in standby mode.

You could try a master reset of MyFord Touch. But then you will have to restore your phone and other settings. The fuse they are referring to is fuse number 10, cell phone passport module. See page 232 of the manual. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1209-seriously-lost-my-energiin-mfm/?hl=passport&do=findComment&comment=6653 http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/1349-my-ford-mobile/?p=8462

If you click the Update button, does the app communicate with the car and update the display to show the current state of charge of the battery? Or if you modify GO times, does it sync the GO times with the car successfully? MyFord Mobile doesn't always work reliably to communicate with the car. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It uses celluar phone technology to connect to MyFord Mobile. There has to be a good signal to connect.

You can also try Value Charge to delay charging until a specified time. You can then plug the car in and charging will begin later.

Preconditioning the cabin when it is cold has worked OK for me as long as the car is plugged into a 240 V charger. The coldest it has been when I used the 240 V charger is in the mid 20's in my garage. A 120 V charger is useless for preconditioning when it is this cold--the windshield will not even be defrosted (well maybe it warms up the HVB so you get better range). The air coming from the vents is barely warm. Preconditioning begins one hour in advance of the GO time when it is this cold. So it takes a significant amount of electricity. However, the HVB will be fully charged at the GO time with either the 120 or 240 V charger. If you have a 120 V charger, you will have to remote start the car to warm up the cabin. If you leave the mode in EV Now, the ICE will not start and the HVB will be used to warm the cabin. The ICE will do a better job of warming the cabin, so you might want to leave it in EV Auto.

If you are using the MFM web site: From the main screen, select view all under value charge profiles. Select the value charge profile that you wish to modify by clicking on edit. The value charge profile will be displayed and you can select the edit button to modify it. You can reset it to the default (effectively deleting it), or you can modify the settings for weekdays or weekends. I notice that they now list various power companies servicing my area. Unfortunately, they don't list my particular power company. So I still have to manually create the value charge profile for my home.

46.2 is MPGe, which includes electricity: 257.1 / (5.18 + 12.6/33.705) = 46.3 The 33.705 divisor converts kWh to equivalent gallons of gasoline. MPG is 257.1 / 5.18 = 49.6. Going 60 mph in hybrid mode, you should average about 47 MPG.

Thank you for your reply. I think the choices for the Energi include: Firestone Winterforce Goodyear Ultragrip Bridgestone Blizzak Michelin X-Ice Xi3