larryh

Here is an article you may find of interest: http://ev.sae.org/article/11705

When switching between Engage and Empower, the marks don't seem to line up. The marks seem to represent about 12 on the Engage screen--but I can't be sure. When power is as 20 kW, two marks, on the Empower Screen, the bar occupies less than two marks on the Engage screen. If you accelerate hard, it could be that the car rescales the display. I haven't tried it.

Since you have barely used the ICE, does your car show 100% oil life remaining?

You could try setting the climate controls to vent air only to the floor to prevent the air from being directed to all the other vents. You should be able to feel the warm air blowing from the vent near the front of the center console. In my car, it doesn't seem to blow very strongly when the other vents are active.

The 120 V charger will heat the interior using GO Times/preconditioning, but only it is not too cold (maybe in the 40's and above). It can't provide enough power.

Oops. It is 64% remaining, not 64% used. It is 36% used. 7,500 / 0.36 = 20833. So is the intelligent oil life monitor just assuming I can go 20,000 miles between oil changes regardless of how I drive? My actual mileage is 7485. 7485/20,000 = 37% used or 63% remaining? Does the Intelligent Oil Life Monitor actually compute different intervals based on driving conditions? Or does it always used a fixed 20,000 miles--that doesn't seem very intelligent. Does anyone's car compute the remaining oil life based a different interval than 20,000 miles?

The oil life monitor on my car shows 64% remaining after 2,250 ICE miles and 7,500 total miles. This yields about 12,000 total miles, or 3,500 ICE miles between oil changes.

For the empower screen, each mark represents 10 kW. I'm not sure for the other displays. The approximate power required for various speeds is shown below: mph kW 20 2.7 30 4.6 40 7.1 50 10.8 60 15.3 70 22.6

That is not set using MFM. You set that using the car's left display under vehicle settings.

Value charge profiles are associated with charge locations. Delete the charge location corresponding to the value charge profile you wish to delete. Using a web browser, select View All under Value Charge Profiles from the main page. Click the My Charge Locations tab. Click the circled x corresponding to the charge location.

You could also reset a trip odometer before starting out. Hopefully, the kWh of plug-in energy consumed does not go negative as you go down the hill, i.e. the regenerative braking is adding additional energy to the battery which is already full charged. I don't know if it goes negative. So maybe you could observe what it reads when you start out, without resetting it, and make sure that it never becomes less that what it was when you started.

Which time are you referring to?

The only thing I could suggest is that you monitor the state of charge of the HVB using the MFT Electric Vehicle Information screen. Is the HVB at 100% when you descend the hill, or does it go below 100% and then increase back to 100% as you descend? At what state of charge does the stop safely now notification occur? The ICE is used to brake the car when the SOC is at 100% to prevent overcharging the battery. If the car fails to brake using the ICE, then a fail safe mechanism should kick in to prevent damage to the battery due to overcharging from regenerative braking. Does the problem occur if you leave it in Drive and use the brakes? If you fully charge the car and immediately afterward being descending down the hill, the ICE should start and brake the car soon after you begin the descent. The dealer should be attempting to reproduce the problem and/or get in touch with Ford to resolve the problem. But it might be difficult if they are not near a hill to descend with the state of charge of the battery near 100%.

Of the 7,500 miles that I have driven, 5,250 of them have been in EV mode. So the ICE has run for 2,250 miles, or 30% of the total miles. It looks like your ICE was on for 240/1240 = 18% of your driving. In the post above, many of the others experienced OMM at around 200 miles on the ICE. I assume that none of your ICE miles resulted from long trips, but instead, you are driving mainly in EV mode with the ICE only briefly turning on. You could try taking a relatively long trip (maybe 20 miles) using the ICE every couple of hundred ICE miles or so (when it is cold and the ICE only stays on only for short periods of time). Maybe that will prevent OMM? I don't think you want to change your oil every 200 ICE miles.

This is discussed in the following thread. According to the comments there: The mode is supposed to go on only when the ICE has not been used hardly at all for a prolonged period to prevent too much condensation from building up in the oil (and leading to damage). http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/1046-oil-maintenance-mode/?hl=%2Bmaintenance+%2Bmode This probably wouldn't occur if you made longer trips. I make 60 mile trips twice each week. I have not experienced this yet in 7,500 miles of driving. Apparently, the ICE needs to run periodically when it gets cold. I would let it run rather than stopping what it is programmed to do to prevent damage to the car.

If you are trying to see if it recorded any DTCs, you can enter Engineering Test mode by holding the left OK button while starting the car. Hold it until the Engineering Test Mode screen appears, probably underneath the current prompt being displayed. Then scroll using the arrow keys until the DTC screen appears.

I only see my last trip duplicated. It says my car will charge from 9:00 to 9:52 pm. It takes two hours to charge. Otherwise, everything else is fine.

I noticed today that turning on and off climate control for heat when the car is cold may not be the most efficient way to warm up the car's interior when the ICE is not running. I have the left console displaying the coolant temperature. As the electric heater warms the engine coolant, I observe the results on the display. When I turn off the climate control, the gauge shows the temperature dropping back to minimum temperature. When I restart climate control, it takes some time before the gauge shows the engine coolant warm again. Meanwhile, the air coming from the vents seems to be cold again. So turning it on and off is probably wasting energy. Its OK if your goal is to defog the windows. But it doesn't seem to be the most efficient way to warm up the car.

I certainly use the heater in the car. I don't think it is even optional when it is around 0. I do however keep the temperature set low. I prefer it that way for my short 12 minute commute to and from work. I keep the house around 60 while I am awake and in the 50's at night. I am very comfortable at those temperatures.

It helps to park the car in a garage. My attached garage is about 20 degrees warmer than outside. As long as it is not much below 0, I am able to drive the 8 miles to work in EV mode using EV now. If it is much below zero, the ICE turns on, especially if I turn on climate control for heat, or to prevent the windows from icing up. I do not use the defroster (which would turn on the AC). I do not have enough charge in the HVB battery to make it back home when it is cold. So I can't be sure what the threshold is when the car is left outside in the cold. Maybe 10 degrees? But it does come on sooner than if it were parked in the garage. If the car has been previously warmed up, the threshold is lower. The threshold for turn on seems to be more complicated than just the outside temperature. Various other factors come into play. I'm not sure if preconditioning directly affects the turn on threshold. The interior will be warmer so you will use less heat from climate control. The less you use climate control, the less likely for the ICE to turn on. If the ICE is warmed up, the temperature threshold is lower.

I reset the timer to start charging at 1:00 am. Today, the car wasn't interested in charging the 12 V battery. The charger shutdown normally after the HVB was fully charged. So, it appears that continuing to charge the 12 V battery after the HVB is not the norm for my driving pattern (even in Winter). The previous day was probably just an exception.

I have only seen the charger continue to charge the 12 V battery after finishing charging the HVB once before now. I look at the recordings for the power consumed for the past two months. Every time, the charger shuts down shortly after the HVB finished charging. So this is new charging behavior for me. I have some hour long trips during the week, so that must have been keeping the 12 V fully charged. But now the cold weather is putting more stress on the 12 V battery so it needs additional charging?

The car is continuing to draw about 110 watts of power again this morning from the charger after charging the HVB has completed. Maybe the cold weather is hard on the 12 V battery and it needs to be recharged longer? It runs the fans and climate control for 45 minutes during preconditioning. Also, the fans are on high for climate control while driving to and from work. During my 12 minute commute, it probably doesn't have enough time to fully recharge the 12 V battery? I might need to reset my timer to 1 am, rather than 3 am, to give it sufficient time to complete charging. It only has just over an hour this morning to recharge the 12 V battery before I leave (half an hour before preconditioning)--last time it required two hours.

Note that the MPGe for the commute to work was 98 MPGe with preconditioning. The MPGe for the trip home, without preconditioning, was 27 MPGe. I consumed the same kWh from the high voltage battery for both trips. The return trip required 0.2 gallons of gas was the difference. If I include the kWh for preconditioning for the trip to work, the MPGe is reduced to about 54. So preconditioning is cost effective, especially since electricity is much cheaper than gas by about a factor of 3.6. In addition, I start out in a warm car. Actually, the cost to work was $0.39. The cost home was $0.77. Normally, the total roundtrip cost in the summer is $0.24. It cost more than four times as much to drive at 0 degrees vs. 70 degrees.

We've had some snow lately. I haven't noticed anything significantly different driving in snow with this car vs. my previous 2006 Ford Fusion which also had all season tires. I notice the orange stability control light flashing once in a while. But I haven't driven all that far in the snow. At least it slows traffic down so my driving scores are now in the upper 90's, and I am moving up in rank on the scoreboards at MyFord Mobile.