Russael

I've been eyeballing used 2017 Focus Electrics... there have been plenty of times where I could've driven all electric using the Focus but the Fusion winds up running on gas part of the day. Granted, I can't take the Focus EV on any kind of road trip, but its great for around town running. Wish I had a 3 car garage too. Considered selling my Expedition multiple times but its value is simply gone. Stealership said they'd put it on the showroom floor without doing anything to it, but at a 1k offer, I told them to fly a kite. Offsite enclosed vehicle storage is expensive too.

I don't know where that is located, but let me ask this first - did you overfill the gas tank, or keep topping it off until you just couldn't fit any more? It's possible some fuel got down in there.

The AC compressor makes a loud buzzing noise at full bore and the radiator fan draws in a lot of air. It quiets down substantially once the cabin reaches your set temperature. I've found the AC on the car to be superior to most other vehicles I've ridden/driven that have traditional ICE driven compressors. Because it is variable speed that isn't dependent on the ICE, it is substantially more efficient. The fiancee's Focus takes quite a while to cool down where mine takes just a couple minutes. If you want it quiet during a remote start (if it is in, say, an attached garage), there is an option called Quiet Start in your vehicle settings... well, at least it is in a 2013. Check your manual.

If you had just finished charging your car before you departed (such as with value charge), your battery was likely quite warm still. Very cold temps and very hot temps force the motor to run. You can make those thresholds a little higher/lower if you run in EV Now, but the car will still circumvent it if it thinks it should. I froze the first winter I had my car and still had the ICE come on even without heat from time to time. If it did, it was an "aw, screw it" moment where I'd turn the heat on at that point. It's been very hot here (low 90's - it's hot to me!) but I keep the car in a garage and I precondition it before going anywhere (remote start with it plugged in to 240 - the AC uses less power than the heater does so it can precondition without touching the battery at all) and my engine hasn't started in auto mode. Yet. I'm sure if it hits 100 here (and it has) and I drive, the motor will come on. Or if I park it in direct sunlight even with it being Oxford White. I got a white car on purpose to avoid excess radiant heat in the summer. Wish Michigan wasn't so stupid with the tint laws... but it's still amazing the number of people who ignore it.

Soooooooooooooo, For the 4th time, my HVAC system lost its mind in my 2013 Fusion Energi Titanium yesterday. One thing I've noticed is that when it DOES fail, it ALWAYS fails via the remote start. Meaning, I've never had it fail just by hopping in the car and going. Always bites it via remote start, regardless if it is plugged in or not. Now granted, the car is now 5 years old and I've had it freak out 3 times before... two of which required FCIM replacements. Symptoms THIS time... Remote started the car, went out after 10 minutes, noticed the car was on, but no A/C compressor, no radiator fan, opened the door and it's still warm inside, but the car's left screen still had "press brake and Start to run", so it WAS in remote start mode. OK, so I don't get a pre-cooled cabin. Meh. Unplug the car, it shuts down like normal, hop in the car, restart the car. Climate controls are completely off. OK, that's weird... left them on last time I was in the car. Hit "auto", hear the AC compressor start going, radiator fan going... no HVAC fan. Fiddle with the controls, nothing. Uh, ok... Time for the universal solution! REBOOT! Shut the car off, pop the trunk, remove negative battery terminal for a minute. Reconnect, hop back in the car, turn it on... HVAC FAN! No A/C compressor or radiator fan. Uh... wtf. Another reboot! Rinse and repeat removing battery terminal. Hop back in, same symptom - HVAC fan, no compressor, no radiator fan. Fiddle with controls... Max AC kicks the fan and compressor on. Yay! Touch auto.. everything stops working... AC compressor shuts off, HVAC fan goes to floor on lowest setting... Well, I have somewhere to be. Hit Max AC again, fiddle with the controls a little more, get the AC compressor on, choose dash vents, and get the thing working. Pull out of the garage, roll to the main road (about 1/4 mile away)... uh, I'm not feeling very cool here... A/C compressor shut off again. SCREW IT. Roll the windows down and drove to my destination. Arrive at destination, touch "auto" and everything works as normal. Check the remote start options to see if they are grayed out, and they're not. OK... When I depart, I touch auto and everything is normal. Drove home in comfort. Not the most reliable HVAC system I've ever seen, but at least I don't need a dealership trip again. Yet.

I haven't had any noticeable reduction in fuel economy or how it performs. Seems it was a fluke... hasn't done it since. I now run the car on premium fuel; the compression on the car is quite high (over 12:1) and even the manual says a slight knocking or pinging is normal... Well, I know knocking is BAD, and premium isn't that much more expensive, and I don't gas up that often, so it's worth the extra 5 dollar investment. No idea if this has any impact on that one misfire incident I had. I still get near 50MPG putzing along at 65 in EV Later mode. Only other thing I can think of is possibly something is slipping inside the eCVT... I can't remember if 2015s were a part of the engineering bulletin for a transmission fluid leak (mine had this too; caught it while changing my own oil a few years ago), but if your tranny isn't making any funny noises, vibrating, you don't feel the car lurching, etc, then that's probably not the case.

Guessing you were driving in L. Drive in D until you expend maybe a mile of charge, then switch back or the ICE will kick on as soon as you lift your foot off of the accelerator.

This is a good question... if you have a 20A level 1 charger, such as the clipper creek one, will the car pull 16A at 120v? The car should negotiate with the EVSE... the EVSE tells the car what it can supply, and the car uses it, up to the car's maximum, as far as I know. Since the car can pull 16A at 240, it should be able to pull 16A at 120 as well. The charger should be variable, but I have no idea what the parameters are, except that it's maximum is 16A at 240v. Any way you could borrow it and try it out and see what your charge time is?

I believe you only get that "charge depletion mode" when you are still running outside of plain hybrid mode - apparently the system will allow more energy to flow from the battery for propulsion. It is dialed back when you don't have miles on the battery anymore. I have searched for an energy flow limit from that battery but am not finding anything. I find it interesting that any of those specifications are nowhere to be found in my 2013 manual... not even the 7.6Kwh spec of the battery capacity itself. Never bothered looking until now. Oh, and I remember someone mentioning somewhere (may have been here on this forum) that the Energi could technically go significantly higher for power output, but the eCVT was the limiting factor; it is not built strongly enough to handle additional output reliably.

Oil Maintenance only hits me in the winter months, and I usually get it 2x a year. Jasonwithana, how long is your commute? While I doubt it is OMM, you could try driving around for about 30 - 40 minutes to see if the motor stops running. On the off chance that the computer in the car is acting wonky... could always try a reboot! And by that I mean removing the negative battery cable on your 12v in the trunk, leave it sit for a few minutes, and reconnect it. Or, go to the dealer and have them look at it more closely. And Murphy, if it is far too cold, that will also force an engine run, regardless what driving mode you're in. I THINK this also may apply to temperatures that are far too hot. From the 2018 manual conditions that force the motor on: Engine On due to Heater setting The engine is on because of the heater setting. Reduce or turn off the heater setting to return to electric mode. High Speed The engine is on because the vehicle speed exceeds the level for electric mode operation. Reduce the speed to return to electric mode. Drive Power The engine is on when applying pressure to the accelerator pedal or switching on the speed control. Reduce pressure on the accelerator pedal or switch off the speed control to return to full electric mode Neutral Gear The engine is on because the vehicle is in neutral gear. Shift out of neutral gear to return to electric mode. Low Gear The engine is on because the vehicle is in low gear. Shift out of low gear to return to electric mode. Battery Charging The engine is on to charge the high-voltage battery. The vehicle returns to electric mode once the battery is charged. Low use (Energi Only) The engine is on to maintain engine oil quality. The vehicle returns to electric mode when low engine use mode is complete. See Hybrid Vehicle Operation (page 146). Battery Temperature (Energi Only) (what I think is the problem) The engine is on due to high or low high-voltage battery temperature. This is a normal operating condition. The vehicle returns to electric mode automatically when possible. Normal Operation The engine is on to optimize vehicle operation. The vehicle returns to electric mode when possible. Engine Braking Actrive: The engine is on to provide increased powertrain braking. This can occur when you turn on the grade assist feature, when speed control is on or when driving with your foot off the accelerator pedal. Turning off grade assist or speed control may allow the vehicle to return to electric mode.

Putting bets that the temperatures there are so high that your car is disabling full EV driving due to high temperatures. Weather.gov says 103 degrees in Vegas... that's crazy hot. The car stops using the battery somewhere around 110F, and if your car is left in the sun, it can very easily reach that, or even at the end of a charge with ambient temps being that high. I assume you're using A/C the whole time. Make sure you have recirculate enabled; it'll stop drawing in outside air to cool and will instead just keep cycling the air inside the car until it cools off - this also allows the battery to draw in much cooler cabin air for the battery. As aggravating as this sounds, this is likely normal operation. I know people in AZ probably have this same concern.

I probably won't be buying anything new for a good, long time. I'll keep my mind open for Ford's electric SUV... and/or I'll hope some 3rd party comes up with a higher capacity battery pack for the Energi when the one I currently have bites it. But I'm NOT in the market for another gas guzzler. Debated briefly on swapping the Expo for a Ford Transit, but on the same note, I don't drive the Expo hardly at all. It sits in the garage collecting dust. Thought about selling it, but it is nice to have around in the winter for the 4 wheel drive. Of course, cars nowadays have optional AWD... An electric pickup or all electric SUV may wind up being my next ride. But not any time soon.

No, the EVSE is always plugged in, and yes, I'm aware of the random interval timer which also invokes after a power failure. That is not the case here. It's plug in, click, click, fault light illuminates for a bit, and then auto-resets, and then begins charging.

I'm guessing the unit doesn't auto-reset. I have (a now old) Leviton 16a EVSE that if it encounters a fault, it'll set a random timer (I believe between 1 and 5 minutes) and will try to resume on its own. I've seen it fault as soon as I plug it in... I'll hear two clicks of the charging relay as it goes on and immediately back off... and after a bit of time, will kick back on and stay there.

Depends on if he has pushbutton start, or if he has a key that he has to put in the ignition to start the car. If he has a smart remote, the remote has a remote start button on it. If it doesn't and is a regular key, that does NOT have a remote start button on it, according to the 2016 manual. However, that doesn't necessarily mean that he cannot remote start it from the MyFord Mobile app or website. It may simply not be available on the keyfob.

In general, they leak. There is a drip tray with drains on all 4 corners of the moonroof. Never had a problem with it leaking in to the car.

When the weather is comfortable (above 70 but below 90), I always have my moonroof open. I don't actually have it roll back in to the headliner, but I have it raise up the back end for additional ventilation. I use it a lot more than I thought I would, but would I miss it if it weren't there? Probably not. I think it's crap that if you want the garage door opener, you have to get the moonroof too.

The comment about defeating it was more of a general statement. :) My car did come out of OMM after being out and about for 30 minutes... plus it was somewhere in the 40s yesterday. While the car was in OMM, I decided to have just a little fun and stomped on it a few times... thing takes off pretty quick. It makes me scratch my head over those who want even more power, but to each their own. Driving fast is too expensive (especially if you see red and blue in your rear view).

Got the Oil Maintenance Mode message on my way home from visiting the cousins. It's a 10 mile cruise... was not enough time to get it back out of that mode. So, the ICE will come back on again when I drive it next, and I will intentionally lengthen my commute to a good 30 minute ride until it comes out of it on its own. I make this commute once a week, but the rest of the time I drive just to work once a week which is 5 miles one way (work from home the other 4 days), and to local grocery stores, restaurants, etc. With it being so cold, the ICE would come on, but wouldn't stay at operating temperature, which is why OMM exists. Rides to the parents' is 8 miles. But even with those moderately extended commutes, the car still boots me in OMM usually once or twice a winter season. But if you choose to defeat it, that's all up to you.

Went through your manual... you should've received a message that said, "Engine ON Due to Low Use Normal Operation." If you saw this, that is the same thing as my Oil Maintenance Mode. If you've only defeated it once, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The video sample above probably took a little while to get to that point. Next time you change your oil, if there's any of that pudding in the cap, just clean it out. You can change your oil now... cheap preventative maintenance. If that message pops up again, make sure you run your car, take a drive, or extend your commute to something around 30 minutes, give or take, to get it to come out of that mode on its own, but don't defeat it or you may wind up with what is in the video.

How funny that I just found a video that basically goes hand in hand with OMM and why it is there. The mechanic's first explanation is the one to pay attention to - many short trips where the engine doesn't stay warm long enough and causes condensation buildup... sort of looks like (in his words) butterscotch pudding under the oil fill cap. Granted, there could be other problems that lead to this symptom, but short trips is one of them, and why you should NOT defeat your OMM.

Yes, the car will pop up a message in my left cluster screen telling me the engine is on due to Oil Maintenance, and it would do that continually (on each restart) until it came out of that mode. The actual message is something like "Oil Maintenance Mode. Engine will run." I would purposefully extend a commute or just cruise around until it went back to normal operation. This typically only comes on if your engine comes on for short drives. There's time for the engine to warm up, but not enough time to boil any moisture out of the oil. When the car cools down, more moisture condenses in the oil and eventually could cause a problem. Even though the car offers the ability to reset your oil life monitor, that is not the intended solution - the moisture content in your oil will only continue to increase. I honestly have no idea why they put that in there. Here's the excerpt from my owners manual about it, and remember, mine is a 2013: Oil Maintenance Mode (If Equipped) The oil maintenance mode is equipped on Energi models only. The oil maintenance mode keeps the engine oil quality in good condition when you drive the vehicle with limited engine use. If the vehicle is in oil maintenance mode when you start the vehicle, a message will appear in the instrument cluster. While the vehicle is in oil maintenance mode, the vehicle will run the engine as necessary. If you select the EV Now mode while the vehicle is in the oil maintenance mode, the oil maintenance mode will be suspended for as long as you continue driving the vehicle. The oil maintenance mode will resume the next time you start the vehicle. Changing the engine oil and resetting the oil life monitoring system will suspend the oil maintenance mode.

If it is too cold outside, the engine will come on regardless of climate control, etc. The very first year I had my car (a 2013) I drove the whole winter without heat... or at least tried to... and I'll never do that again. When it drops below freezing, it is a crapshoot if the engine will come on or not. Most of the time, it would, and if it did, I'd turn the heat on. Figure I may as well not waste the comfort. And this is regardless if I was in EV auto or EV now modes. I use about 2 tanks of gas for the whole winter season, depending on the trips. The Volt does the same thing. As far as oil maintenance mode goes, I get hit with that maybe twice a winter season. It requires about 30 minutes of uninterrupted driving to get it to come out of that mode, is what I've discovered.

Do you have a short, maybe 1' long antenna where the mount is on the roof by the rear glass or is it just a hole? One of my friends picked up a brand new car and they never put the radio antenna in. If a missing antenna isn't it, it is possible that the plug on the back of the headunit came loose and fell out (but then it isn't likely you'd get radio at all). Try test driving another Fusion and see if the reception is the same. If it isn't and your car is far worse, drop it at the dealership. You should still be under warranty.

Yup, I have. When you turned your car off, did you open your door for a moment and leave the car sit a couple minutes so it fully shuts off? Sounds like when you did, you didn't do that, but the overnight sit allowed the system to reset. Now here's something else for you to check, because when mine did this, I lost pretty much everything having to do with remote start - go in to your left instrument cluster screen's main menu, go down to settings, vehicle, remote start, and see if anything within that system is grayed out and no longer selectable (quiet start and everything under climate was dead for me). If its dead like mine was, a dealership appointment is necessary for either a reprogram of a module or a FCIM replacement (Front Control Interface Module). If not and everything within the remote start system still works... lucky you. :)