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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the FFe? I need to understand the tail light signals so I can isolate them with diodes properly.

Hi all, I have a 2013 FF Energi, I've installed a Curtis 56178 vehicle specific trailer wiring harness and lighting isolator module so that I can wire up some trailer tail lights on my bike rack which mostly blocks view of my tail lights when loaded with a 26 and 20 inch fat tire bike. My problem with this kit is that the brake lamp signal seems to be on a different line than what the trailer wiring kit's connectors intercept. They only pluck three signals, so my parking lights, left and right turn signals work but no brake light illumination at the trailer (or on the sense line from the fusion taillights). Anybody run into this problem? I will take the taillights out again soon and identify the brake lamp wiring, I have some diodes on order that I can use to isolate them from turn signal wires but still trigger the trailer lilghting isolator module. I've reached out to Curtis support but not heard back yet. Thanks.

Same here. First quadrant does not illuminate when charged. Also does not illuminate when it cycles upon first connection.

Built and installed a 40A/10kW OpenEVSE L2 charging station. I can adjust the pilot signal duty cycle on the EVSE from 6A to 40A, although FFH only uses up to about 13.5A with its 3.3kW charger. FFH uses 110W of overhead as the charger is active and the battery management powered up, and also includes the traction battery cooling fans. I saw this 0.4A draw for 1.5hrs before the value charge start time occured, and then for several minutes after the charge cycle completed. It may be trying to reach a target temperature for the battery pack... not sure how long it will use 110W but I will continue to watch the data. The lowest rate you can charge at is with a 6A pilot signal on 125VAC is 750W. Just an FYI from my experiments that I wanted to share. Attached an image of the 6A charge cycle completing.

HI everyone, I wanted to chime in here. I've tried two LED options in my '13FFE. I first tried the fanless Phillips H11 product in my halogen headlamp. I wrote this review on Amazon: "These LEDs have identical lumen output to a 55W halogen, but the photometric distribution is still wrong compared to a halogen filament. This translates to how well the lamp housing can collect and aim the light down the road. With identical lumen specs but poorer photometric distribution this lamp fails to project the same amount of usable light down the road. The range these bulbs cover is noticeably shorter than halogen counterparts, especially in side by side testing. Look for LEDs that produce 360 degrees of light output at precisely the same distance from the bulb base as a halogen, with better lumen output instead." I had intended for these to go in my fog lights, but had tested them in the headlights. In the fog lights they performed a bit better, and will certainly be cooled much better. They fit in both headlamp and fog lamp just fine. They do not project enough light for headlamp usage, although the beam pattern was acceptable. I then went the brute force way, and used the Starnil 3600 lumen 40W triple COB fan cooled bulb. With a bit of fines, they did fit in the low beam H11 sockets but I had to remove the fan guard. The LEDs operate at 160F open air and the LED driver operates 150F open air 80F ambient. Anyways, these bulbs have brutal lumen output but the "COB triad" has much worse photometrics then halogen capsules and the phillips LEDs. I end up with a very bright region close to the car but it fades quickly. There is almost zero overlap between where my high beams start and the low beams end. They are bright enough as headlamps but HID would have the closest photometric match to halogen. PS the fans are noisy, especially when you have an electric car. The H7 Starnill product does not fit the high beam. The headlamp housing is too complicated and contorted to get this in place. I would like to improve this system and make my H7's work as high beams... I want to get PC CPU water blocks epoxied to the LED bulbs to replace the fan heatsink, epoxy the LED driver to the other side of the water block and then run hoses to a small radiator somewhere behind a fog light with a 12V pump. Don't want to cut into my EV low temperature cooling system, although it would be ideal.

Greetings all, I was hoping someone might know where an input signal exists that triggers the anti-theft system, such as the trunk switch or similar. I would like to run a security cable though various parts of my bicycle carrier so that if the wire is opened/cut/broken (aka bikes are being tampered with) that the car alarm activates and MFT alerts me via SMS. I am hopeful the trunk lid switch can do this since it is in such close proximity to the trailer hitch bike rack area. Appreciate any advice others have here. 2013 FFE Ti.

Just found notes from this thread: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/8581-climate-control/page-4 SSM 44558 Reprogram the Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 90.02 and higher. Also found this: https://discussions.myfordmobile.com/discussions/MyFord_Mobile_Discussions/BEV_Accessories_and_Modifications/Energi_Design_Suggestion/mfm010000d1/438.74?redirCnt=1&nav=messages Thanks all for the excellent responses!

Any time I try to use the climate control without running the AC, the AC jumps on and runs very hard for a few minutes before starting to ramp down. It doesn't feel like a malfunction, it feels like Ford thinks they know what is best for climate control with little regard for battery energy consumption. Does anyone have any good tips to just start out with the vent fan only and no AC action? I keep my climate control off quite a bit just because I don't need the AC running. It ramps the AC up very hard even if the climate controls are set to the outdoor temperature. Thanks.

It feels as though everyone wants Ford Mondeo headlights for their 2G Ford Fusions, but as far as I can tell these don't really exist except for perhaps 2016 ROT active LED lamps. Sometimes I find a picture that shows a Mondeo with DRL light pipes but I can't find any real parts to support this. If these DRL Mondeo headlights do exist, what countries and years were they sold in?

Recce93; I looked at these ebay lights quite a bit, and just returned from the LV SEMA show closely examining lights there (none found for 2G Fusion). How bright are the amber and white LED elements built into those lights? How do you rate the quality of those light fixtures? Which H7 LEDs did you install for high beams?

Hi Recce93, sounds like you installed the Philips Ultinon LEDs, which I tried @18W. No bulb out warnings from my H11 fogs or H11 low beam headlights. Note that Philips Ultinon LEDs are not bright enough to use as headlights. I did install an LED PWY24W in my turn signals, which turned out to be white instead of amber so I removed it again. It drew about 10-12W and the instrument cluster turn indicator blinks fast, but the LED bulb blinks at a regular rate. I also installed a 5W COB LED in the 194 running light socket near the high beam and no warnings from it.

I would like to be able to disconnect the cellular modem. I didn't see a fuse dedicated to it. I'll go look at the rear package shelf. Has anyone disconnected this before?

Was wondering if anyone knew which front light fixtures had bulb out warning monitoring? Was interested specifically in fog lights, high beams and low beams. I know the turn signals hyper-flash on the interior only.

This would be a disaster. You have a 50% chance of bridging two 110VAC circuits that are opposite phase which is a leg to leg short circuit. Even if you used two cords from opposite phases that jumpered into a 240VAC SAE J1772 plug, it would be 240VAC 15A which is half the amperage that a J1772 connection expects for 240VAC. Even if you found two circuits that are same phase, there is a possibility they are both on the same branch circuit.

So is this service cost covered by Ford? Is it a perpetual subscription? What network/carrier does it use? MFT wouldn't send a vehicle health report out until I BT'ed my iPhone with it, even when it was on WiFi. I bought a used car and it "just works". I also see that Sirius Travel Link only has audio subscribed. Is this a freebee for a while?