skyagade

Had mine replace about a year ago; plug had melted. New replacement still gets fairly warm and outlet light blinks red often when warn/hot. I guess my replacement was too early to have thermistor?

Well took in vehicle this morning at 7:30am. By the time done with service write up, and shuttle home, about 45 minutes, I get call saying car was done; I guess mechanic had plenty of "practice"(?), although when I drove up to drop-off, there were no waiting lines at service (not a busy day I guess), like purchase dealer (35 miles away) always has. Waited another 45 minutes before shuttle picked up. Drove home and checked all settings and nothing seemed/needed reset, so it appears they didn't disconnect 12v battery; again, I guess that mechanic was adept at doing/knowing how to do the fix very efficiently?

Didn't receive any letter, but wife mentioned she saw on news. I proceeded to call Ford to ask about details (i.e., if driving is okay (yes), reimburse for rental (no), etc.). They said I should contact dealer when I receive letter, probably near end of April. Well, I didn't want to wait until I received a letter, so late March, I called closest dealer (not purchase dealer), and was told they depleted recall parts the previous day, but they would call me when they received more. Well, they called yesterday and I scheduled appointment on April 24; they also said they need vehicle for 1/2 day. I will update this thread how (or in what condition/state) I pick-up. Not having a whole lot of confidence in this dealer since last time I took in for 12V battery replacement, I started to leave and noticed check engine light on; I returned and waited for service advisor to reset/clear OBD....I'm guessing disconnecting 12V battery triggered something in "black box"; otherwise everything functioning okay (although I don't have nav nor upgraded audio).

I'm of understanding that hard acceleration and higher speeds (i.e., higher discharge rates) affect battery's long-term health; does that mean the high(er) temperatures related to those two driving habits are responsible for degrading battery life? If so, then logically wouldn't higher charging rates (i.e., 240v vs. 120v) either of which also create high battery temperatures, also affect long-term battery health? Thus, would charging at 120v be better (for long-term battery health) than 240v (aside from other factors)...if the option is viable for the situation?

My 12v battery just died....and I mean completely died! So dead that I couldn't even use my portable jumper to start the car. I had to use regular jumper cables connected to my other car battery, but I had a heck of time trying to connect to car's positive terminal under the hood; there is very little space between for the humongous cable clamps. But eventually forced into space to connect and start the car. I guess that why Murphy says "Standard jumper cables are not needed ..." because current draw of a starter motor doesn't exist, thus heavier gauge jumper cables aren't needed?

Murphy...thanks for the info. But to answer some of your questions, I first had problems last Friday when out on errands; that was first time...no previous warnings/MFM messages. I have two voltmeters....somewhere amongst my pile of junk in home/garage; needless to say, I can't remember where they are stored. I had to jumpstart with another car battery this morning...just to get it started to drive to dealer....luckily it didn't die on the way. My portable jump-start battery (that I have for 22-year Acura that I drive once every two weeks or so) didn't have enough juice to power the 12v system. I ended driving to nearest Ford dealer, ~5 miles of local streets, instead of purchase dealer, ~30 miles; too scared of getting stranded somewhere along the 30 miles of freeways. Just picked up car and returned from dealer; they told me 12v battery was dead...and they replaced under warranty. They told me battery warranty restarts 3-year/36K miles coverage...yeah...but not that I'm looking forward to such a sudden need/replacement again. I hate to think if I was in Phoenix (I live in L.A.) for an upcoming weekend wedding and the battery died....ugh! Anyways, dealer replaced with a BXT-99R; I thought OEM/replacement was a Grp 65R? 99R is 3/4-inch shorter in length, but 470CCA vs. 390CCA (for 65R)...according to BCI specs charts. Does that mean new/replacement should last longer (or have better performance)...everything else being equal? I too opted for 7-year/100K ESP, but bought at purchase; I too thought, too many expensive electronics nowadays, especially compared to my older ICE only cars. More for "peace-of-mind".

Suddenly, while out on errands, I couldn't remote unlock my 2015 Fusion Energi nor open trunk lid; I had to manually unlock driver door and use inside trunk release button, but luckily vehicle was driveable. Drove home and started getting messages "12v battery is low..." After doing some online research, I connected battery recharger to under-hood connections points and "recharged" 12v battery (or at least until I received full charge light on charger). Then disconnected charger, checked vehicle to "start" and "started" okay (but I didn't choose to drive it at all...for fear of getting stranded out on the road). Then several minutes later, I start receiving 12v battery low messages...again. Then went back to vehicle and tried to start again, but "no-go"; it was completely dead...no instrument cluster, touchscreen....nada! I'm presuming that 12v battery is completely a "goner" and won't even hold a charge (only 26K miles and it's not even three years old yet!). My question is, if I jump-start vehicle (HVB is fully charged) to get it "started" to drive to dealer (~30 miles) service, will vehicle continue to be driveable with 12v battery fully dead? If I start drive on electric and when I run out of HVB juice, will vehicle switch to (and be able to start) gas engine with dead 12v battery? I'm not sure how switchover from electric to gas actually works. Any thoughts?