Johnny Mo

https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/another-modem-upgrade-2020-fusion-energi/13446/18?u=johnny_mo

I had this happen on my 2015 when my main commute was less than the PHEV battery range - but it took several months and then car went into hibernation mode. I added a charger to the battery overnight and then made sure to include an occasional full 30+ drive on ICE only to keep the alternator charging the 12v battery. Traded in recently for a 2020 but was not an issue for over a year after that revised approach.

I had a 2015 Energi that became my son's car - at 106k miles this past December we decided to upgrade (he loved his Fusion) to a 2020 Energi, knowing about the battery issue and a hope for a fix. With that I was also surprised and upset about the modem issue - took matters into my own hands and replaced it with a newer modem from a Ford vehicle that was 4g and used Forscan to update it on his 2020 - works like a charm. Check out the Cyan Labs forum for more details and what specific modem and antenna will work. Hopefully we get a battery fix soon. I had a lifetime 59mpg on that 2015 with 106k.

So after scouring Ebay for an H TCU, I gave up and went with a JL3T from and 18+ Expedition/F150. I also purchased the PIFA antenna from the same seller (outstanding customer service by the way) I installed everything, did a Forscan firmware update (thanks to the crew at CyanLabs for the instructions), took about 35-40 minutes, car was doing all sorts of weird stuff (wipers going, HUD crash display lighting up etc) I checked all the as builts and settings - had my son add the app and activate the car - it immediately showed up on the sync screen that he was requesting access. After about 5-10 minutes all of the features started populating in the app, remote start and lock, tpms, fuel level, location, scheduled start etc. Very thankful for these forums and the people that paved the way for DIY. Well worth the $200 or so spent on TCU, PIFA and antenna cable.

Wound up trading up to a 2020 FFE - the car is my son's at this point so I'm happy that he's got a warranty and didn't break the bank to get a relatively new/low mileage upgrade.

Brake upgrade - painted calipers are a nice sporty look. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ux1bCShw7ZxoGxXX7

Sorry - just seeing this, I just traded in my 2015 which had upgraded assemblies from when it was new - I got one of the last good bi-xenon setups from the lighting firm. I gave them the factory housings also - didn't have time to swap and see if anyone had interest on here before I got the deal done. They are likely on the car at Dana Ford in Staten Island NY if you are interested in trying to get them.

Just traded my 2015 FFE (106k miles) for a 2020 FFE (17k mile) and looking into the modem upgrade - actually the 20 is now going to be my son's car. Will let you know what I find out about the modem and any possible self install. ON a side note I also have OBDII tool and licensed copy of Forscan (that I use on my Bronco) so I'm hopeful it's that simple once installed.

I replaced mine at 75k - made the mistake of going with Monroe quick-struts - now 30k miles later the boots on them completely disintegrated. Looking at the KYB now...not expecting this car to go much more than 3-4 years - it's in great condition but with the battery degradation and I'll be over 140k by then.

Mine (2015 Energi) stopped working about a week ago, and my dealer is telling me that I need to have 3 modules updated/replaced - ohhh yeah at my cost (I have ESP BTW). So apparently FORD feels that since this is an option that I should have to pay for the upgrade, when clearly the change in modem and firmware that THEY engineered is causing my MFM to not work. That's like saying hey we loaded this new firmware that will no longer allow you to use your heated seats unless you replace them, or your moonroof unless you replace the control panel...WTF seriouslY??? This aint over...stay tuned boys and girls, shit's about to get real.

I had this happen as well and chalked it up to an improper reinstallation of my front bumper after I did my lights...much more prevalent with the new update, but it could also be a similar issue with bad connection since they recently replaced the outside temperature sensor. I'm gonna take the bumper off this weekend and rule out improperly seated connectors. Also going to try and rule out the piggyback fuse block I added for my tlf lights. Still getting on software, but won't know for sure without more tests...if it is software...so much for remote start getting fixed I suspect...

murph - not sure if this was for me, but to clarify my 1 of 4 starts was spread over several hours, and the first of all of them was unsuccessful from the onset.

Funny you guys mention all this - I have another thread I started asking about which motor(s) are used to heat the car during a remote start. Here is a synopsis of my issue which I think ties right in - Remote start had been fine up until these events (or at least in the summer when it was hot out)- my charge port ring had a blown quadrant - then I got a check engine dummy light on the dash - which I was told by the dealership was related to said charge port ring. Ring replaced. Upon replacement of the ring - noticed 2 things - remote start not working and the left dash menu options under remote start for climate settings grayed out - back to dealer SSM45143 performed to re-flash and activate settings (also noticed heated steering wheel option don't recall it being there before) Reflash fixed gray out, but not remote start. Also noticed that now the Plug in Battery icon no longer displayed the miles remaining on the plug in battery (there's another thread here about that too). Car goes back to dealer - they cite a faulty outside temp sensor (mainly because I pointed them to it based on some intermittent issues with O/S temp displaying 50* when it is in the 20's out (actually just 50 always regardless of outside temp) Replace temp sensor - remote start still not working. Back to dealer for a week this time - re-flash done assured that remote start fixed - but alas when I tried it 4 times from the pickup at the dealership it worked only 1 time out of 4. Also on way in today outside temp gauge was displaying proper temp and then about 15-20 min into my commute went right to 50* and stayed there.Now I am working with the dealership and the factory hotline folks to try and run thru a few scenarios like RS with plug in batt charged and discharged, MFM app or key fob to see what triggers it to work or not. Also - while driving a brand new 2015 Fusion Hybrid loaner - I experienced the EXACT same issue with the outside temp gauge - 37* outside and gauge showing 50. This leads me to believe there's likely a software bug in this latest re-flash that is creating a host of problems, guess we are going to have to be the guinea pigs that help them fix it. Sucks since now that it is cold out I'd really like for my RS to work...sad thing is you trigger it from the office window and see the lights all trigger like it is going to work and then you get out there 5-10 min later and it is freezing still. I have a Case # with Ford Customer Service open - will keep you guys posted on what comes of it.

Thanks guys - that helps...so my settings were greyed out a week or so ago and then they did an ssm 45143 and it fixed that but I lost my plug in mileage indicator on the battery icon. Before that my charging ring was replaced and the dealer said that is what most likely triggered the grey out condition. When my remote start was working - settings in the left menu were all on AUTO, and never when plugged in - use GO-Times for that year round. Problem is I am not plugged in at work, so I generally remote start from my window when I cna see my car and validate the response, or from the app. THe last several times when it was in the mid 40's F, I did not feel the same level of warmth (didn't feel any actually) when I would get out to my car - whereas in the past it was nice and toasty - seats and defroster. So I am pretty certain at this point that my RS is not working so back to the dealership we go. BTW - all of this started once I noticed my charge port ring had 1st quadrant out - then a check engine light - the trip to the dealer pointed the check engine light at the charge port ring fault, and then when I got it back - RS options fro climate were greyed out. I think that gets us all up to date ;)

I have a question I was hoping you guys could answer - mainly to help troubleshoot an issue I think I have with my remote start. Not sure when the issue started, but definitely feel that in colder weather 40-50 my remote start has not been operational. I expect the ICE to turn on during remote start where heat/defroster is required (below 50 F) but I don't know if that is the case. Does anyone know if the Remote Start uses the Plug in battery or ICE or combo of both. Reason I ask is because even when Plugin Battery is fully depleted, I'd expect ICE to turn on from the beginning and it hasn't. So trying to get a sense for how "should" remote start operate. J Mo 2015 Fusion Energi