stevedebi

I realize you are frustrated, but I suspect getting the battery back above 10% is done to protect the long term life of the HVB. That would be a big concern for Ford. I also suspect that their EV+ is to blame for it getting that low.

Thanks HB, I figured either you or larry would chime in with exact numbers. Hopefully Ford has researched the numbers well enough. My FEH was doing fine after 6 years.

Yes, the Atkinson cycle torque curve is poor at low speeds, but is pretty good at higher speeds. Hence the pairing with the electric motor for low speed "grunt". I really don't see the point of an F150 with hybrid. I would think it is just too heavy, but looking at the specs it is only about 500lb heavier than the Escape (the closest vehicle to the C-Max, and a better comparison than the FFE). But the battery and electric motor would have to be a lot larger to make it work, and the truck would be underpowered if the battery got depleted. Pickup owners value their power. Add that to the costs (which would probably be similar to a small diesel cost), and I'm not sure it makes sense economically.

I've never heard the rear fans running when the car is off. You should take it in for that.

Perhaps Ford miscalculated somewhat, but I don't think they deep discharge the batteries. Actual SOC probably bottoms out around 30%. I have read from those using the ScanGuage II that for the Hybrid Fords they use around 30% - 66%. That is similar to my previous Escape Hybrid, which used 40% - 66% (but those were NiMH). From posts by Larryh, it appears that the maximum actual SOC is around 94%, which seems high, but Ford did a lot of testing before deploying these Li batteries. What Ford did not anticipate were folks who pushed the system to the maximum possible. I think the concept was to charge when you could, but generally around once per day. One area I am suspect of is the charging under hot conditions. It is one reason I only charge at night.

Interesting you should mention this. It made me think, and I don't believe anyone has made a 6 cylinder Atkinson cycle engine. They are all four bangers.

I have the C-Max, and the rings always represent around the range of the EV. Several miles if the HVB has a lot of charge. Not to be confused with the small blinking circle that shows up around the vehicle. The range rings (at least on the C-Max Energi) actually darkens the map somewhat outside the EV range.

Saw another thread that might be of interest: http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/2085-custom-audio/page-2?do=findComment&comment=24518

I have driven in heavy rain and highways with the door open, and then used the L2 charger at the distant end, with no issue. Rain will not cause problems. There was a C-Max Emergi user who didn't want to mess up his lifetime mileage, so he tried to siphon the tank on his car as he approached the mandatory fuel burn age. Turns out it cannot be done - he took it to the dealer and everything. It appears that due to the way it is built, it cannot be siphoned.

LOL, I read my C-Max Emergi manual cover-to-cover before I even bought the car! But I like geeky stuff. You make a good point there, but they could have accomplished the same thing by simply burying the range setting deep in the setup menus. People who never read manuals would not know it is there.

Well, that is just plain dumb. If the info is available elsewhere, why take it off the battery?

I'm not sure how easily a door remote would work. The door requires a push in to open; I would think with a latch it would have to be spring loaded and pop directly out instead. I sometimes think how smart Ford was with this "circle out" design - if it is left open, there is little drag. That is in contrast to a door that pops open 90 degrees, which drags in the wind (like the fuel filler door).

Just out of curiosity, in NAV mode while using EV, does the map still show the range indicator?

On question 3, if you deplete the main portion of the HVB, it still retains a small percentage, which is often called the "hybrid" part of the battery (in fact, it is all one big battery, it just reserves a part). This part is charged and discharged as you drive. On a long downhill, if you exceed the small portion allocated, it continues to add charge to the HVB. What you are seeing is that there are different battery displays. In hybrid mode there is a plain battery (I think of it as "2D"). If EV is available, there is a different battery icon. Prior to 2016 the "larger battery" icon had the estimated range in it, but I think they dropped that part for the newer models. The icons will only change when you have a downhill long enough to provide a lot of charge.

Probably. Here in CA, if they have special rates, it requires a certain battery capacity. The Energi is just below the cutoff (8, if I recall correctly).

On my C-Max Energi, there is a list of canned texts that can be sent. It cannot compose custom texts.

Sorry, I use the quote hoping to avoid confusion. Looks like it didn't work here. But for his case, driving to the dealer and showing the problem would help. Personally, I think this is a software bug. The one time it happened to me it wasn't very hot. If it were a temperature problem, it would not correct itself when the vehicle is power cycled. But that is even worse, because a bug will not necessarily leave any traces behind. EDIT: I have a good dealer and relationship with my service advisor. They hooked up the machine ASAP when I got there, knowing that it had to be found before shutting down.

So long as you don't power down the vehicle, any codes will still be present. Assuming any codes are being thrown. No, I'd suggest a photo for the dealer in that case - but also going directly there. I had a few problems in my Escape Hybrid that were this way; the dealer could not find them unless I got over there without powering off. Fortunately I live pretty near one of the largest dealers in the US, with a good hybrid department. But I was directly replying to the person who had the lack of hot air blowing out. That problem would probably still be there.

Sometimes you have to get to the dealer when the problem is occurring. For some reason the car will sometimes throw codes that are not stored. If you could demonstrate the blowing cold air to them, they could hook up the computer and analyze.

That is what happened on my lease - it went to reduce the cost of the car. So I still got the value.

Just goes to show what happens when your utility company isn't required to invest in "green" energy, which is driving up costs here in LA. And will continue to drive up costs.

Your salesman probably didn't know. He had sat in the car and thought the back was cooler. Or maybe he was not telling the truth. But I think you will find both honesty and dishonesty in all dealerships, of all brands.

The Defrost runs the compressor, which causes the ICE to kick in. It happens a lot in cold weather. We have to remember that while a battery stores well in the cold, it does not perform well in the cold. It switched to "system performance" because once the ICE turns on, it has to warm up to a certain temperature to satisfy the air quality folks (heating up the catalytic converter). So even after you fixed the reason for the ICE coming on, it had to finish warming up.

I don't bother looking at MFM much, but I do find myself in the Renaissance Man randings between 35 and 25 or so in the West Coast rankings. I just drive sensibly and try to use the regen as much as possible.

I run my cable out under the large garage door. There is no way they could steal it without opening the door. The plug is attached to a huge device used to hold the cord when not it use. They could cut it off, of course. I roll mine up and put it in the garage during the day, then roll it out at night, closing the garage door over the cord.