stevedebi

On my first fill up, I realized that the dealer didn't fill it up all the way. When full, mine goes above the full line. I got mine with the guage right at the full line. That is probably part of it.

Uh, OK, but I'm still not sure why they would have two ways to measure ECT if it is all the same.

I think that may be the case. I was using the illustrations in the Ford OBD documentation for the C-Max, which shows the two sensors. But that document only tells what settings will cause the OBD2 errors to come out. It lists coolant temp as an input to several codes, and the diagram shows two different methods of obtaining ECT, but they don't explicitly say it is measured differently when the ICE is running. However, it makes sense to me that they would use the inferred ECT when in EV Later, because the heat is coming from the other loop, where as in EV mode it is coming from the electric loop. At least I hope that is what they do - when I'm running in the desert and have the Temp MyView up, I want to know the engine temperature, not the temperature of the electric heating loop!

Larry is right, but let me restate it in simpler terms I myself understand, and by the questions you asked: 1. The height of the threshold is based on the speed you are going and the amount of battery left. The faster you go, the less energy required to get into EV (or stay there). It is a complicated running algorithm that Ford uses, and does not publish. 2. On your second photo, there is a really low amount of energy available, so the blue line is very small. This meter always shows the amount of energy available to run in EV mode. If the white line is running, you are drawing too much energy to get into EV.

Raja, OK, I looked it up. There is a coolant sensor in the electric loop, and when the ICE is running the Engine Coolant Temperature is inferred from the Cylinder Head Temperature.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm on L1, can't precondition efficiently. Very interesting though, and I can't imagine why they would put coolant temperature there when it doesn't reflect the engine temperature. Unless they switch the guages when the engine is in use.

Are you certain of that? I thought it shows the calculated water temperature. There is no sensor for ICE coolant temperature, so Ford generally takes the cylinder head temperature (Cwt) and interpolates the estimated water temperature.

I think it was Switzerland, but can't remember.

In case you didn't get the chance to follow the link, the charging system is water resistant. I used it here in the recent LA rains. I charge outside. Just make sure the 120v side plug is protected from getting wet (the charger itself is weather resistant, but not the 3 prong plug).

Note that what matters is where the car was first sold, for those buying it second hand. NOT where it is now residing.

I don't see how it could work, considering the car has an AT&T 3G module, and I don't think that would work in Europe. They use a different GSM band. http://www.worldtimezone.com/gsm.html

The hybrid specific components have an 8 year / 100K Federal warranty. For CARB states it is 10 years, 150K.

Technically it isn't legal here in CA either, but they do it and never get stopped. The lane sharing was supposed to be for stop and go conditions.

I'm with you there. I do pretty well with the 120V, and no matter how efficient, preconditioning costs electricity. Maybe it works out better financially than accepting the potential lower MPG because the cabin isn't pre-cooled or pre-warmed. I know a lot of folks on these forums are focused exclusively on maximizing MPG, but I prefer to think in overall costs. If I had a need to constantly recharge over a short period a L2 might make sense. But my driving cycles really only needs one charge per day, which the L1 does fine.

Not sure which VW you have; our 2014 Passat has four positions for the headlights - we leave ours on Auto. The DRL are always operating when the headlights are off.

Ah, you mean for the owner to manually wire the thing into the existing charge. Got it. Yeah, that could work. Better than getting it repaired, but probably still more expensive.

Gary, Take another look at the last couple of posts. They shutters are based on cooling, not speed or aerodynamics.

That is a juicebox cable, and different from the OEM cable. From the ad: "Perfect addition to your JuiceBox or a DCCharging system." EDIT: To clarify, yes, it has the correct connector on one end, but nothing to provide the power on the other end.

Headphones? You can't drive with headphones on... I'm assuming you adjusted the equalizer and it didn't help?

As Raja has posted, it isn't rocket science to fix a broken wire. But it needs to be extra sturdy and weatherproof. I'd still take it to a professional.

Thanks for that URL - I'll file it in case I ever need another charger!

I don't think that DRL is bright enough. Certainly not as bright as most cars.

Ford will fix that under warranty if you are within the 3/36.

I concur with murphy. Take it to a professional electrician and have them make a waterproof repair. It is going to be outside, so a DIY is not recommended.

Larry, I've not heard of the Locked Electric Mode Override by Driver mode, though I've seen the car do that several times. Is there a document or something that describes these modes?