Scooter80

Well, they only give me $10/month for that luxury. IF they use it.

I don't have any mats other than the Titanium Package's included ones, but I have had Lloyd's mats in the past and they are gorgeous! High, resilient pile, good color match, great fit. Again, can't vouch for the Fusion fit or even Lloyd's of late, but they were awesome years back!

I edited my original post to add a chart of the Charge Profile for those who've been wondering what wattage when! Enjoy!

6.8kWh used today for a full charge. At 9.8 cents or so per kWh, this costs me less than a can of Coke! Certainly less than the snide remarker's Starbucks! I charted the Charge Profile for everyone's enjoyment:

Yeah, there is a cost to it, I'm sure, but not to us. Just like when you buy a 3G Amazon Kindle. Amazon eats the small Data cost of the 3G because they roll it into the price for the books and device. Same here with Ford and the price of the car.

The grille in the overhead should be the mic for voice commands and noise canceling system. The extra grille in the back is for air circulation to keep the batteries temperature controlled.

So it appears it is likely a problem with the included charger encountering a fault of some sort. I know most of the L2s have a retry feature so they will attempt charging again automatically after encountering a fault. I guess the included charger does not have this feature. Do you guys have anything else plugged in on the circuit with the charger that may have caused a fault?

I can't get a result on #3. I've tried continuing to hold the seat memory button while hitting the lock button on the fob, and I've also tried releasing the memory before hitting the lock. Either way I've gotten the doors to lock, and/or the horn to chirp, but never another chime. If its like my Audi, it will adjust the seat to the carried fob's program as the door is unlocked with it.

Any resolution on this on your end? Charger problem? Car problem? Just retry and it worked? Service visit?

So, while I love this feature and have marveled at how accurate and useful it has been, I did encounter an issue with it the other night. I was on an airport pickup (which ended up being perfectly timed btw, consider my horn tooted), I got behind an old beater Oldsmobile with those tail lights that extend across the whole back end. Well, either they weren't bright enough, or the auto high beam system just didn't recognize them. So, when there wasn't oncoming traffic across the median of this lesser traveled, unlit 4-lane, my high beams kept kicking on even though she was still right in front of me a few car lengths away. Must've really made the poor lady wonder what this jerk was doing. I got to verify that car was the prob since I slowed to allow someone to pass me and get between us. That car had "regular" tail lights and no further problems. Makes me wonder it will do with some of these newer cars with that feature (a la Dodge Challenger, Charger and Dart). Anywho, just be aware this could happen, and know how to defeat the auto highs! "Manually overriding the system Use the lever to switch between the high beams and the low beams. Note: This is a temporary override and the system will return to automatic operation after a short period. To permanently deactivate the system, use the information display menu or turn the lighting control switch from autolamps to headlamps." Wish I'd been able to recall this that night. Felt like a real jerk.

Anyone been able to tie their seat position to their Fob? I'm having no luck trying per the manual's instructions: "Linking a Pre-Set Position to your Remote Control or Intelligent Access Key Your vehicle can save the pre-set memory positions for up to three remote controls or intelligent access (IA) keys. 1. With the ignition on, move the memory positions to the desired positions. 2. Press and hold the desired pre-set button for about five seconds. A chime will sound after about two seconds. Continue holding until a second chime is heard. 3. Within three seconds, press the lock button on the remote control you are linking. A single chime will sound."

Ruh roh!

Just did it via MyFordMobile app for iPhone for my wife for today and yesterday. Worked great on L2. Didn't used to work on the included Ford charger. Now, we are still heating up here in "can't seem to decide on a season" land. Maybe it's not as effective with cooling? And FYI, go times are when you want the car READY. Not when you want it to start conditioning.

Cool little charger! I think you answered why it gives you more range from work. "Preconditioning" with go times will help immensely. The car will figure that into your miles calculation.

Yeah, I remember the format of which you speak. I don't recall when they made the change.

I've also driven with the charge port open. My wife did 36 miles twice with it open. Didn't notice it was open even though she got out and back in at work. Ha! The gas door is locked. Can only open from the button on the center console.

Yeah, it got me too! Have to make sure you've pressed the "iPhone apps" button on the top of the search pane in the iTunes Store on your iPad.

It is not specifically for the iPad, no. But it Is universal and can be used on the iPad.

No, the Siemens has the delay built into the unit itself for those vehicles which do not have a function similar to the MyFordMobile app. With the app, that feature on a chargepoint is redundant, but some may prefer to do it with the chargepoint rather than the app. That would make the app the redundant one. ;-)

You're absolutely right. Having to break in brakes in order for them to "let go" would be a flaw in a design. A dangerous flaw. And ridiculous for your dealer to suggest is the case. I think you should try to get your dealer to elaborate and if they continue on this line, you need a new dealer. I can tell you my brakes are not and never have been engaged in the least when I let off the gas. Now, that is physical friction brakes. Regenerative braking WILL engage at release of the accelerator, but I'm sure you knew that. And the drag that those cause during coasting would be nothing close to a friction brake dragging. It is not designed in to have the friction brakes drag during beak-in. So, if you truly are experiencing this, you ARE experiencing a defect. The norm for regen braking/coasting drag is equal to that of a conventional ICE's drag. Since an Atkinson cycle ICE mated to an eCVT does not provide this drag when running, let alone when not, they have programmed the regen brakes to provide this drag to forward motion, and boost to battery. Hopefully your dealer was referencing THIS drag and maybe there is some sort of firmware tweak to modify this normal behavior to be more to what you're used to. Again, I hope your dealer follows through and can make it right.

Glad I could help. I'll be installing my kWh meter's remote monitoring/data logging equipment soon here (wife doesn't know I made this purchase yet, sssshhhhh) so ill be able to provide much more data much more easily.

What you're saying makes sense for sure, but then, since we know there IS a 12v battery in the car, try to account for those who can go for weeks, months, or a year without the ICE kicking on. How are we charging the 12v battery then? We know Ford has accounted for this lack of use of the ICE on the fuel side as they have programmed in a "fresh fuel cycle." There is no "top off 12v battery" cycle for the ICE. I am sure there IS a dc-dc converter, for the specific purpose of keeping the 12v system charged and healthy. There is the obvious lack of storage on the 12v side with only a dc-dc converter and no battery, that would cause other problems and make the hybrids (plug-ins or straight hybrids) an altogether different animal than a conventional car. Something I am sure they're not willing to do for cost/trim/model line continuity reasons.

I'd like to echo that the battery DTE gauge on display is NOT a charge level, but a rough estimate based on past trips and current behaviors. EVERYTHING will factor into it. I verified this just tonight. Unhooked from charger it showed 19 miles. While enroute to work, I played with climate, turning it off and then truly off, manually disabling the a/c compressor, and I gained 2 miles. Turned a/c compressor back on with climate still in manual and lost the 2 miles again on the gauge. Repeated once more with same result. Btw, as seen in other postings to this forum, it takes an extra step or two to truly disable the a/c compressor. Simply turning climate off doesn't do it! And I believe ANY 12v accessory or function (yes, headlights) will drain the hybrid battery as it is the hybrid battery that charges the 12v battery from what I understand. I haven't spent a lot of time in the engine bay to see if there is a true alternator or not, but have heard the HV battery does the charging, not an alternator.