openair

Well the smells are mostly gone but today my orange wrench returned in the exact same weather as previously and disappeared after power cycling the vehicle as previously. The electric heater also seemed to be getting weaker in advance of this. I can only imagine I'm in for another months long battle to get Ford just to accept there is something wrong and I can only hope they'll look for the real problem this time rather than just throw another heater at it.

Today my orange wrench returned 2000km outside the bumper to bumper warranty. It occurred today in exactly the same weather as previously and disappeared after power cycling the vehicle just as previously. The electric heater also seemed to be getting weaker in advance of this. This suggests the electric heater only lasted 9 months after being replaced and dieing again due to some undiagnosed problem that is the real problem. At this point, if you have to pay out of your pocket to replace your electric heater, I would suggest not bothering unless you can and want to spend $1000 every ~9 months on a new heater.

I, like bdginmo, have also had my electric heater replaced with the same DTC eventually pulled. However the DTC is not stored beyond one or three power cycles of the vehicle and in my case was accompanied by the orange wrench for a powertrain fault. Because the DTC is not stored beyond one to three power cycles it took me ten months of multiple visits to multiple dealers with orange wrenches and "No codes, nothing wrong" to get the issue resolved. May help to have a dealership pull the DTC without the usual power cycles that come with the normal routine of dropping a vehicle off for service. I'd power it down to park it. They'd power it up and down to move it and again before the tech even got close to it, nevermind check for DTCs. So the DTC would be long gone. Also ambient temperatures between 0 to 3c with light partially melted snow or freezing rain on the vehicle seemed to trigger my powertrain faults that were eventually resolved by replacing the electric heater.

Had my brakes serviced on Friday. Now there is a clicking sound at the gear shift when the brake pedal is pushed and the brake booster noise is gone completely. Going to have to either convince the dealer to pay for a rental so i dont drive with malfunctioning brakes or take time off work or wait until Friday. Safe to drive without the brake booster?

OK, thanks Larryh.

I didn't ask that. I understand that while it is actually engine braking it is not using fuel. However when the engine continued to turn after the vehicle came to a complete stop, only the white bar grew as i accelerated away from the stop and the instantaneous fuel guage and trip both showed fuel had been consumed it is definitely running. Is the behaviour of the brake pedal supposed to be drastically different, having to push it much harder to get similar deceleration along with some pulsing in the rate of deceleration, during engine braking? Is the engine supposed to complete a warm up (20c, run for one minute) afterwards?

When the battery is too full to allow regen braking and the ice is used to engine brake is the behaviour of the brake pedal supposed to drastically charge? Have to push it significantly harder and some pulsing of the rate of deceleration behaviour with the pedal kept steady? Is the engine supposed to complete a warm up phase afterwards?

Place that did the alignment says they put the serial number in their computer and do what it tells them and that it wouldn't have much affect on the fuel economy but looking at the front end you can see the tires are obviously toed in. If i see can it with the naked eye than it is probably more toed in than it should be. Went to a different place for a safety today. They wouldn't pass it due to some new Ontario rules that the brake pads must make 75% unrusted contact with the rotors. They say the rotors are more 50% than rusted. They also say it is out of alignment and another look at the numbers they gave me show the toe for the front at 0.21 degrees and the rear at 0.25 degrees which is outside the 0.20 degrees I've seen as proper numbers. The dealership that did a works inspection two weeks ago says the rust is not really a safety concern and simply noting that the rotors were slightly rusty is sufficient. They say these new safety rules are designed to protect used car buyers and not a safety thing per say. Going to get them to look at the alignment again. Idk what to believe about that. Anyone able to confirm what the alignment numbers should be?

You're probably right. I was unaware of this. I bet it didn't even need an alignment.

I got better fuel economy this morning at 0c with the heat on than two weeks ago at 20c with no climate controls on. Under inflating the tires and not allowing the vehicle to relearn it's idle and other strategies after resetting it definitely has a big impact on fuel economy.

I stated both winter and summer numbers in the op. I was getting better fuel economy 4 weeks ago with the ac on at 26c than two weeks ago with the ac off at ambients of 21c to 24c(75f). The trip meters and instantaneous fuel guage. I checked the air pressure of the tires yesterday afternoon though. They were below the factory recommended 35psi. When they did the rotation they most have bled them from where i had them slightly over pressure. My fuel economy seems to be improving again.

Go times were using tomorrow schedule instead of today's. Excessive moisture inside the vehicle every morning. They reset the battery management system and a few other modules and preformed the Tsb related to moisture updating the fcim and whatnot. The go times issue remained afterwards and was fixed when i pulled the 12V. The moisture issue is fixed.

Yes, my14energi. That is nice fuel economy. Better than i use to get before Ford got my vehicle. Much much better than I get now. If i had continued to get those numbers I would never have made this thread.

I'm not fixated on anything. TLDR for op: Ford did some updates and resets and did not follow the manual instructions related to allowing the vehicle to relearn it's idle and other fuel trimming strategies (evident by having to redo certain settings on the left lcd and touch screen and mfm trip data). I got the vehicle back from Ford and it was using nearly twice the gas for the same trips I'd been making daily for a year. I fixed this to within 15-30% of that and your videos fuel economy by pulling the 12v and letting the vehicle relearn as per the manual. I'm still concerned about that 30% so I made this post. That part about the numbers was in reply to my14energi. Edit: I followed rborts advise and set it to Ev later at 95%. Got the same 15% worse fuel economy then before Ford had my vehicle that I've been getting.

The videos are interesting but i use to get those kind of numbers (50mpg) without worrying about when i put it into Ev later. I wouldn't be worrying about the numbers if they continued to fit the advertised fuel economy and the budget based on that when I got the vehicle. They no longer do and increasing my $3000-4000/year commute by 15-30% is worth thinking about. I drive 50k km a year. $1000/year can influence if and when i get a different vehicle

For 10 months now I've been commuting 160km round trip 5+ days a week. During, and even before, I noticed that if you keep the vehicle above 114km/h it no longer tries to cycle between charging and discharging the battery as it (and hybrids in general) do at lower speeds. After making this trip many many times over the past year it became evident that driving 114km/h was more efficient than driving 110 or even 100km/h for the above and below reasons. At 100km/h the engine will consume between 6 and 8L/100k until the charge is high enough that the threshold allows some electric driving until it discharges enough that the cycle repeats. This has the following negatives: charge/discharge wear of the battery, the vehicle cannot predict rolling hills resulting in repeated circumstances where the engine is now consuming 12+L/100k as it is both climbing a hill with no electric assistance and charging the battery from the bottom of the hybrid window. Keeping it above 114km/h sees the following behaviour and benefits: the engine now consumes between 6 to 8L/100k until the battery is charged to the top of the hybrid window. The engine continues to run afterwards consuming as little as 4L/100km and 5.4/100k average. Climbing those same hills has the engine consume up to 8L/100k with electric assistance instead of the 12+ above. This all results in less charging/discharging wear of the battery, less fuel consumed and less stress on the engine and rest of the powertrain. That was my experience for 9 months. I would get daily trips, one way, of 3.2 to 3.8L/100km and 4.5 to 5kw consumed with the ac on. Or 4 to 4.5L/100km and with the heat and winter tires on at below 0c. That was my experience 5+ days a week for 9 months. Then about three weeks ago I had an alignment, tire rotation and other maintenance and diagnostics done. Including resetting the battery management system. They claim not to have disconnected the 12v or reset anything to do with idle or fuel trimming yet for a week afterwards I saw trips of 6L/100km and 4.5 to 5kw for the same trips as above but even with no heat or ac. So I pulled the 12V battery and went through letting it relearn it's idle strategy and what not and I sometimes get similar fuel economy to what I had previously and sometimes not. When I don't the vehicle runs in a charging or warm up phase much longer than during those previous 9 months. The engine will consume 6-8l/100km randomly in the same locations of the rolling hills I use to see 4-5l/100km. I'll be driving down a very gradual slope and the fuel consumption will begin to drop near the top of the slope than jump back up when the slope and increased or remained the same. I believe the reason for this is partly due to me not being as good at letting the vehicle relearn it's fuel trimmings as the tech who did it 9 months ago but also that both the age of the battery (I see 5.0 kws at best) and the reset of the battery management means that the battery is correcting it's state of charge more often and when it corrects the state of charge to below the top of the hybrid window the engine has to run longer to return it to this Ev later set state of charge. I know the system is constantly over estimating and correcting in a negative fashion as I can park the vehicle at 10% or 3 Ev km remaining and return to find the hybrid portion more than half depleted. This, imo, is a significant weakness of the implementation of the charge maintaining Ev later mode if true. I couldn't care less if I end up with a few precent fewer Ev km or less charge in the hvb but using 15-30% more gas is huge. Edit: TLDR: Ford did some updates and resets and did not follow the manual instructions related to allowing the vehicle to relearn it's idle and other fuel trimming strategies (evident by having to redo certain settings on the left lcd and touch screen and mfm trip data). I got the vehicle back from Ford and it was using nearly twice the gas for the same trips I'd been making daily for a year. I fixed this to within 15-30% of that and your videos fuel economy by pulling the 12v and letting the vehicle relearn as per the manual. I'm still concerned about that 30% so I made this post

Does anyone know what temperature the first hash mark from the bottom on the engine temp gauge represents? It is normal the engine temp gauge would remain at this temp for nine hours after the engine last ran?

Yes. Same animation as lock and unlock. Seems I'm mistaken about there being window controls in the previous version.

Yes, I did get the set passcode to eventually work this morning but I had to sign in and push ok to set a passcode about 6 times before it actually advanced to that screen. The remote start does work but sometimes you have to wait for it to finish updating first. All the other bugs still stand. My phones back button also doesn't work correctly with the app and I have to use the back button within the app instead. Still would have preferred they wait to release this purely cosmetic update until it was functional and not removed functions like windows up down.

Downloaded a new version of MFM this morning. Mostly a cosmetic ui styling update that came with a functionality cost. The set passcode function is broken and the remote windows up down function is gone. Also unlike the old app continues to display my 5:45am go time in the upcoming go time section for hours past that time. Likely now just displays today's go times in this section instead of the next go times as the old app did. Also only displays the switch to skip a go time next to this already passed go time making this skip feature broken for all but the first go time of the day. If you haven't updated yet, don't. There is no real benefit. Only broken and missing features.

Works for me without any tricks but at a slow rate. Have you tried a different USB cable? Is it an iPhone?

Same thing this morning. 17c. Doesn't so much temp related as driving conditions. The manual states the touch screen power flow screen should show hybrid drive due to high/low temp if this were the cause. http://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/749-hybrid-motor-on-due-to-battery-temp/page-2 This thread has an owner experiencing aa somewhat similar situation. A change in the behaviour of how the vehicle drives related to available power from the traction battery. He does get this temp message on the power flow screen though. The dealership and hotline stated it was normal. A zone manager was condescending about the issue. Yet they still in the end found a DTC related to charging system cooling performance that was only found after the dealership reproduce the issue. A repair was performed.

At 29c I was able to reproduce this by accelerating at 3.5 to 4 bars for about 90 seconds. When this occurs in EV now the pop up engine enabled for system performance appears instead of the usual press ok to enable engine. So it appears that something at least thinks it is overheating at temps ranging from 5c, 9c, 18c and 29c. I say overheating while the hot line said cold because my understanding and prior experience is the limiting of the ice threshold behaves differently for hot and cold. Over heating the ice threshold behaves as described in this thread. For the cold, and this is what I experienced the first winter with this vehicle, the ice threshold will fall to about 2 bars after 2 miles of driving and then remain there for the rest of the trip. It does not gradually recover as it does in the heat. If this is correct then it does appear that the temp sensors are malfunctioning. Can someone please confirm this before I try to overcome my "repeat caller" flag with a new dealership?

Again this morning. 19c. Switching to EV now after the threshold has fallen gives engine enabled for system performance (while the ice doesn't actually run) and the brown EV icon. Will try to see what happens if it is already in EV now when the issue occurs next. Last night, 24c, accelerating from a stop the ice came on instantly. Had been very light all electric driving, with a majority of the time spent stopped at red lights. The ice continued to run in warm up so was unable to check the threshold behaviour. I definitely did not press the pedal hard enough that it would have passed even three bars. I'm thinking something at least thinks it is overheating or it's a condensation and electrical issue (been intermittently having to reinsert the navigation SD card as well. Dealership said there were lost communication DTCs listed for this when they checked my vehicle but refused to look into it).

I will try this next time but believe it won't really avoid anything and will simply cause the issue to manifest with the enable engine pop up appearing at 2 or 3 bars instead.