openair

In this thread we have the two theories. One: that ev later will deplete the hybrid battery during ev later use based on visual observation of a more or less gradual drop of the ice threshold when the ev range is depleted. And two: the distinction of hybrid and ev battery operation is software only based on the current true state of charge. One is based on visual observation and opinion. With no quantification of the variables involved (time difference, power demands, other driving conditions). Two is based on evidence drawn with OBD II scans of data from the battery. I think rbort, that it is time to re-evaluate your assumption your previous experience with a more or less gradual decrease in the ice threshold is related to ev later use and consider some of the numerous other variables. At least until you can provide some quantified evidence of your own and before continuing to tell multiple other people there is something wrong with their vehicles.

Except I never said that. TX NRG did. I still get the expected 5.7kwh in ev mode on my 2014 ford fusion. I like how you decide your car is the one working perfectly while trying to convince others their ev later mode works just as incorrectly as your does.

I had assumed this was as simple as the physics of an object in motion stays in motion and an object at rest stays at rest combined with mechanical nature of electric motors and the CVT.

Poor memory? Difference between the Cmax and fusion? Cooling seasonal weather? Your HVB still in its settling period? I am almost always having made use of EV later when I do deplete the HVB. I just got back from a trip having not used EV later once to double test and refresh my memory of what is being discussed here. The ev potential on the empower screen dropped from 4 bars to 2 bars and the charge level of the hybrid portion dropped just as when I do make extensive weekend long use of EV later. In fact, due to the continually cooling weather, it dropped even faster than the last time I depleted the HVB after making extensive use of EV later.

I have tested it myself. As i already described in this thread. I see the ev range and battery % drop to 0 before the switch to the hybrid portion of the battery and a gradual but relatively quick drop in the charge of the hybrid portion equal to about 3km of ev range for the entire hybrid portion of the hvb.

This was my understanding as well. That the distinction of ev and hybrid portions of the battery is a software distinction based on the current true state of charge of the battery. If this is true than the hybrid portion of the battery cannot be depleted during ev later use as steve and rbort describe. And I am fairly certain what larryh and i had describe is how my 2014 Fusion Energi SE operates. Which lines up with the numbers larryh states and is expected. 7.2 kWH max true state of charge. -1.0 kWH reserved for HVB health. -0.5 kWH reserved for hybrid portion. = 5.7 kWH ev. Or 0.2kWH off what you've experienced. A loss of 4.5%. Well within the HVB warrantied parameters (the HVB warranty states a loss of up to 30% is acceptable before they will replace the battery). Or 6.3kwh vs 5.9kwh if we included the potential of the hybrid portion and your experience with "most of" it = a loss of 0.3kwh. A 6.3% loss. Still well within the warranty. I think ppl in this thread are just expecting far too much from the ~0.5 kWH used for the hybrid operation. The hybrid portion is slightly less than 9% of the size of the EV portion. Or about 3km, 2 miles, for the entire hybrid portion.

The remaining EV range changes during EV later because of the ~5% charge window.

100% of the hybrid portion of the battery is reserved for hybrid use regardless of operation mode. EV later is programmed to allow a ~5% window +/- of the current % when EV later is set. Some give and take is required for efficiency (so it can operate as a hybrid while in EV later). The EV range reported is the range under the EV portion of the HVB. The display does not display any range related to the hybrid portion. This is observable as the EV range drops to 1, than 0 KM(miles) before switch to the hybrid portion display. As well as by observing the actual battery % on the touch screen. This reports only the % of the EV portion of the battery.

It is possible but rarely happens under normal driving. Requires a fairly long and or steep hill. Define quickly. 1 or 2kms of pure EV driving? What are your break scores like? What speed are travelling at during this time? How many bars on the empower display do push while accelerating?

My hybrid portion of the HVB also depletes gradually but while it is gradual it does happen fairly quickly relative to the main portion of the HVB. I think "gradually" and "almost instantly" are not definitive enough for gauging battery performance like this. This is not a valid reason when discussing the hybrid portion of the battery. EV and the hybrid portion both use the same physical battery. The distinction is software only and, as discussed elsewhere on these forums, it is possible it get enough regen to climb out of the hybrid portion back into the EV portion. Once in the hybrid portion there is the entire EV portion that could store energy regened through breaking.

It's November and I live in Ontario, Canada. It's 9c, at best, at noon. I could crank the heating while it's in the sun and it wouldn't do squat (as far as evaporating water is concerned). Never mind that I am at work during that time and cannot. I removed the panel but the water was long gone through the other wholes and whatnot under it. Gave up.

Today I split a bit of water between the gear shift and the storage and media compartment. A first I thought: it's plastic instead of upholstered. No worries. Easy to clean. I go for some paper, and look back, and most of the water had seeped through the crack between the two pieces of plastic. Possible to remove the elongated 'u' shaped piece of plastic to dry inside? Anything sensitive inside I should be worried about?

Have you tried actually saying "point of interest" instead of p o i?

Long story short. My Z1 died of water damage. My Z3 is working good so far. Must have been my phone.

My phone does not have a removable battery but I have power cycled it using the master power switch multiple times. I was away on holidays for a week but shortly before that we synced my brothers phone to the car. It worked flawless for about 20 minutes before the car stopped displaying ANY texts from either phone. It's possible all the old texts the car is flagging as new from my phone are ones transferred to my sony by the sony software from my old LG phone. Going to perform another master reset on the car, purge my phone of these texts and see what happens. If this does not fix the problem I expect there is some faulty hardware in my vehicle.

One more day and the Bluetooth music issues from my op have returned as well. I should master reset every three days to keep it working?

Spoke too soon. Music works now but messaging has developed the same issue again 2 days later. It worked for awhile but now displays at least one old text as new each time a new sms is received. It starts off always marking the first text (by date) from my first contact (alphabetically) as new. Evening after viewing and listening to it on sync in the car multiple times. Deleting all texts from the vehicle reproduces this. Deleting the offending text from my phone has the vehicle mark the next text (by date) from the same contact as new. Eventually it also marks texts from my most contacted contact as new but I've been unable to identify any rhythm or reason this contact and their texts are being marked as new. (Except maybe the fact that this contact is the one sending 95% of my incoming actually new texts.)

A master reset seems to have fixed my issues thanks!

Saw this thread and thought I would ask if what I've been experiencing with my energi's brakes is normal. Sometimes when I press the brake pedal, I can hear what sounds like an electric motor running. Similar to the sound of the parking brake but sounds as those it's coming from the front rather than behind. Almost always occurs at least the first two times I press the brake pedal when getting into the vehicle. Sometimes stops after I start the vehicle. There is also a clicking noise and sensation felt on the shifter when pressing the brake pedal in park.

I don't think it was outside an 8% window but it's possible. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see how it goes.

That would explain why it run sometimes. Why I get ~110mpg on myfordmobile occasionally when I though it was a 100% ev trip. But it does not explain why it does the ice comes on similarly at lower SOC. 20%-70%. I suppose this could be due to a low SOC and I may have had it in EV later mode at the time but I didn't think it was supposed to run the ice at a stand still only to charge the battery. These times the ice comes on I am talking about, the empower (or engage I forget which is which) display shows the ev motor running at where I would expect if only the ev motor were driving the vehicle and the ice running below any rpms I've seen it use to propel the vehicle by itself. It could be the battery is too cold I suppose and only loading the ice enough to make up the lack of power from the battery due to cold. I always use the empower or engage displays. I am never accelerating fast enough the ice comes on only for that reason. I never accelerate fast enough I get the enable ice pop up in ev mode.

I sync my phone. I Bluetooth music. Works no problem. I shut the car off and leave it. Come back. Start it up. Bluetooth works no problem. I put the radio on. I try to Bluetooth, sticks at audio throwing. Text messages, calls, etc work, but music will not with my phone stuck at syncing throw. If I put the audio system on anything but Bluetooth, even for 1 second I cannot Bluetooth music from my phone until I completely delete my phone and resync it all over again. I also occasionally get old texts text-voiced instead of the new one just received or the wrong number, name, picture displayed for a text. Are these the kind of glitches ford is still working to resolve or something wrong with my car? Or possibly a very strange incompatibility with my sony Xperia Z1?

I've two trips atm. Trip one: 251.5 km. 123.6 ev km. Trip two: 2588.6 km (exactly the same as the odometer). 65.6 ev km. Trip two obviously includes trip one yet reports fewer ev km? Impossible. Both trips have each been reset at least once since I bought the car, yet trip two reports total kmequal to the odometer. Impossible. Are these the kind of glitches ford is still resolving with the software or something wrong with MY car?

Afaik the battery has independent electric heating and cooling and the ice plays no roll in battery temp management. The EV now or EV later modes have never been disabled while the ice is running while the vehicle is at a stand still. They have only ever been disabled if the battery is depleted far enough they should be.

Near 100% sometimes. I understand the ice may need to warm up but my understanding is the ice needing to warm up is related to the temperature of the ice due to ambient temps approaching freezing. The temp of the battery is unrelated. 17c is tshirt and shorts weather. The ice should not need to warm up at that temp.