openair

No, because like larryh said, even a regular hybrid has ev miles. Some of those 3500 ev miles came from kw and some came from gasoline. There is not enough information, or the information is not specific enough (which ev miles came from plugging in and which came from normal hybrid operations), on the trip meters to calculate mpg for the hybrid portion of this 3700 mile trip. If you want to figure an average mpg for your driving style while you're driving in hybrid mode (ev range depleted or ev later) you'll need to track trips that are driven in hybrid mode. Or, in other words, trips that have 0 kw reported on the trips.

Nice work! Though I think it showing of how pour ford organization is that an owner had to find this out for other owners. That ford has a spare tire that will fit our vehicle and fit in the trunk but no one at any level of ford knows this. In fact, because this or any tire is not labelled as a fusion energi spare in their parts catalog, they would tell you no such wheel and tire exists.

As stated previously, regen rolls this number back. Therefore regen is gross not net. For example. You accelerate to 40km/h and drive for a distance, drawing 0.5 kw. Net is 0.5. Gross is 0.5. The trip meters read 0.5. You then regen 0.3kw from any means. Hills, braking, the ice. Net is 0.2. Gross is still 0.5. All meters read 0.2. You then draw another 0.5. Net is 0.7. Gross is 1.0. All meters read 0.7. You then regen 0.7 from a really long hill. Net is 0. Gross is 1. All meters read 0. You thae draw the rest of the battery, 5.8 kw. Net is 5.8. Gross is 6.8. All meters read 5.8. 5.6 to 5.8 kw is average for a healthy battery, 100% to 0% and part way into the hybrid portion, regardless of hills or regen km.

Yes, it is what was net drawn from the battery. Between 5.6 and 5.8 is average for a healthy battery.

Regen and anything generated by the ICE turning rolls this figure back. They do not add to it. So the end result is very close or identical to what was held in the battery to begin with.

Been more than two weeks since my last convo. The new CSM said he was going to call me back after his vacation. Thought that was the weekend. Than figured one week. Than maybe two. Wasn't too concerned. Especially since my vehicle is still in the autobody shop. But than yesterday I received a four question survey. Stuff like how satisfied are you with your resolution? With the length of time to resolve? How likely are you to buy another ford? Since my concerns are not resolved in anyway yet I answered dissatisfied for most questions.

The insurance company wanted to use a Pontiac dealership. I called a local ford dealer, the insurance Co isn't going to pay to have it towed all over, they didn't have a body shop but recommended the one they use for their warrantied body work. It's been sitting there a week and half with no estimate. I did finally get him to plug it in to charge it back to 65% though.

Worked up a spreadsheet to calc a MPG Dollar Equivalent using what was spent on KWH to add an amount of gallons that could have been bought for the same amount. Or L/100KM$E as well. Green cells can be changed to enter your own data if anyone is interested in making a copy. The two different sections for each MPG and L/100KM allow data from MFM or within the car. You can specify cost per gallon, litre, kw and a charging efficiency. Will clean it up, make it more user friendly and maybe hide or work in some of the less useful data eventually. Any suggestions or corrections to my math are welcome! https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Te_43B1H04qN3R-j3wt-EuyeVWUFKYjq-mZzcRid5EA/edit?usp=sharing

Maybe state of charge is also a factor. The trip out, with a high state of charge it cooled the battery to ensure it would be able to deliver the full 4 bars without causing too much a spike in heat. The trip home, in "hybrid," it warmed the battery to counter the low soc and because it was limited to the 2 bars that are available in hybrid anyway.

Driving into work this morning. Accelerating away from a stop sign. Guy backing out of his drive way at the first stop sign backs into me. Tiny scuff on his bumper and my paint on his trailer hitch. His trailer hitch took the impact. My rear passenger side door, that quarter panel, the bumper, and maybe trunk lid and wheel well liner will need replacing.

And has returned after performing another master reset... Seems the vehicle needs about two weeks after a master reset for this to work correctly. How can this even be possible??? How can the master reset break this function and it then it fix itself weeks later?

It now works again. One more intermittent thing for the list I guess.

My latest convo with my new CSM he suggested I call the dealer where I bought the vehicle for advice to give locale dealers. They said there is nothing they can do over the phone. Could tell he was resisting the urge to laugh at me. I think corporate ford needs to realize dealers here in Canada do not offer the same level of service as dealers in the states.

Did all these vehicles have their software updated at the same dealership?

Can any other fusion owners let me know if they share hybridbear's experience?

I already spoke to my CSM about this as described earlier in this thread. They parroted the dealers threat and were not interested in my side of the story. They also threatened to carry over this threat of a fee to any other dealerships I tried for a second opinion. Defeating the purpose of a second opinion and pigeonholing me to the current dealership. I was able to reason with the dealership, point out to them where our misunderstanding lay and they did not end up charging me for service. If a CSM isn't even interested in my side of the story or playing intermediary to resolve conflicts like this, than who does? I have been speaking further with a different CSM who called me shortly after I created this thread. A CSM who can call me outside of my work hours and not force me to waste my entire 15 minute break at my hot sweaty job to attempt to get a hold of her. Wasting my entire fifteen minute break to get her answering machine means I don't get to cool down and only adds to my stress level when I should be relaxing. It is affecting my job and my health. I cannot do it anymore.

All navigation right lcd commands but my home works fine in my vehicle. My home worked for the first 6+ months of ownership. Only recently, sometime in the past 3 months, did it stop working. Yes, even poi still work.

Go times benefit both the passenger and the battery. The difference Stevedebi refers to when compared to the volt is that the fusion energi uses the cabin air to cool the battery. This is the main source of cooling and therefore a big reason to use precondition besides any benefit to the passenger. The volt has independent cooling for just the battery and therefore wouldn't benefit from preconditioning the cabin as much. The volt would still benefit from preconditioning, if it had such option, as there would be less demand from the battery after the plug is removed to condition the cabin for the benefit of the passengers. Imo the best vehicle, that would get the most range from an identical battery, would use both preconditioning and independent battery cooling. There are also other differences between preconditioning and remote starting besides scheduling. Preconditioning uses only net power available from the plug to condition the cabin. A remote start will use any power that is available, as necessary. Including the ICE.

On the touch screen, under navigation, destination, my home. The address is set. I can set it as a guidance destination from here. The voice command "navigation destination my home" also works to set guidance to this address. But navigation my home from the right lcd using the steering wheel controls gives "no match," sometimes stick at please wait for ~10 seconds and will not set guidance. Another example of how the right lcd doesn't even agree with the touch screen (like my phone issue). This time ford wont have my phone as a scape goat though. I know this worked previously. After all the hard and master resets trying to get my phone or any phone to work correctly I didn't bother to set this address for a few months. At some point between then and now some update one of the dealers installed to try to fix things broke this too.

It has nothing to do with my cell phone. With my cell 100 yards away inside the house: If the key fob is close enough to the drivers door handle, say in that hand the grabs the door handle or if I lean a certain way with it in my right pocket, the drivers door does not unlock. Approximately within 1.5 inches of the drivers door handle. My hand would usually move the fob outside this 1.5 inches to press the lock button, explaining why it would lock but not unlock. It appears to be a deadzone within ~1.5 inches of or interference caused by the drivers door handle itself. All other doors work with the keyfob in a similar position to themselves.

I get some speed limit signs here in Ontario. Depends on the what level of info the nav card has about that street.

Well this is interesting though. And please hybridbear let me know if this is the same for you or not. (Yours doesn't detect the key at all? Have you tried other doors? Or only drivers?) I went out up the vehicle with my cell phone and key fob touching each other in my right hand as I touched the intelligent access sensors. The drivers door and only the drivers door would not unlock but would lock. Doing exactly the same with all other doors behaves flawlessly. Only the drivers door experiences any interference with my cell phone touching the fob in the same hand that touches the door handle. It seems likely this is a senor sensitivity issue. Not all sensors are identical. They usually need some calibration. Mine are likely not sensitive enough or calibrated off the vehicles centre. I have also never experienced water from rain or washing trigger the intelligent access as many other have reported. Which also points to a difference in sensitivity. The vehicle starts with the key fob and cell phone in my left pants pocket or in the drivers door pocket. I do not get a no key. Only the drivers door refuses to unlock. Edit: in fact the key fob only experiences interference with my cell phone when they are touching each other in the same hand that touches the drivers door handle. If I use the other hand or put them together in my left or right pocket there is no issue. So doesn't seem to explain my intermittent issue at all. Being able to reproduce this issue with only the drivers door handle with them touching each other might give me something to show the dealer but I doubt they'll get any useful advice from the hotline besides use the other hand.

My phone is always in my left front or back pocket. The key fob in my right front pocket. And I mean always. The four months with no issues after changing the batteries and the one week recently with issues everyday. Each and every time my phone is on my left and the key fob on my right. Or in one case the key fob was in my right hand grabbing the door handle. This also does not change in the 5 seconds between the drivers door failing and the rear passenger door working first try.

Right pant pocket.

Entering the vehicle to go for lunch today, as I nearly simultaneously closed the driver's door and started the vehicle, it gave a double honk as though I had left the vehicle running and exited. Seems to be another occurrence of it intermittently not detecting the key fob. It detected it to unlock the door and start the vehicle but then did not detect it and thought the fob no longer in the vehicle and gave the double honk. I have been unable to reproduce this suggesting it did not double honk for some other intended reason.