openair

The owners manual recommends that if the vehicle is to be stored for 30 days or longer to store the HVB at 60%. 2 or 3 weeks may be short of this but it certainly doesn't hurt to follow this advice for shorter storage periods. It's not as though the chemical reaction occurring within the battery suddenly changes between the 21 day and 30 day marks.

Exactly. A failed battery. There is a lot of potential lost capacity that the warranty doesn't apply to. And while an energi will function as a hybrid after it has losts all of its extra HVB capacity over a hybrid, we'd paid a lot of money for that capacity. Many, such as the op, will also operate their energi as a hybrid by choice, after the ev range has been depleted or in ev later, long before the battery has degraded to the point where it may still function as a hybrid for a "long, long time." So the op wants to know which is less stressful on the battery in an effort to minimize this degradation and get the most of why we paid more for these vehicles over a straight hybrid. Running in ev later at a higher soc or a lower soc.

They also have no specifics in these warranties as far as performance or capacity. People have fusion or cmax energi batteries that only now charge to a usable capacity of ~4.4 kWh and nothing is done (almost 25% loss of capacity). The warranty has absolutely no bearing when concerns about how to keep the battery healthy and able to maintain a usable state of charge are raised.

Various locations. Work. Home. Gfs apartment. Random parking lots

Intelligent access not detecting the key fob this close to the driver's door handle is non actionable by ford. It is intended or at least intended to work with the fob further away. Reproducing this similar issue to my intermittent issue in this way doesn't have ford any more interested in fixing my intelligent access headaches. Basically my earlier guess that the hotline would respond "use the other hand" was correct. lol Since discovering this deadzone around the driver's door handle I have still experienced intermittent issues with the key fob and the driver's door handle not unlocking or locking many times. Even when careful to keep the key fob further away from the door handle. This past Sunday none of the doors would respond until I pressed the unlock button on the fob.

Because, at some point, gas may be cheaper than electricity. That is the discussion occurring in this thread. Why would you run on the HVB rather than the ICE if the ICE is cheaper? Because, for very short trips, you're unlikely to hit your average mpg. Therefor this is a reason to charge the HVB and drive using the HVB even if gas is cheaper than electricity (and do a second calc based on what you might get as mpg for short trips mostly in the warm up phase).

That means you haven't authorized the app by accepting the two messages (24 hours apart) in the vehicle. This can sometimes be a communications error were the message was not received. Starting over should allow you to use the app fully.

'Additional features added to MFM' could be stuff as simply as windows up down the from the MFM website/app. Or scheduled remote starts (different than preconditioning). Or other fluff like new rankings.

I wonder what this means for us Canadians whos 2g support will not be phased out for at least another year after AT&T does. First I thought it was I good thing I'd have 2g access longer. Now it looks like I won't receive these added features until a year+ after those in the USA do.

My 2014 has always been between 5.4 and 5.8 kwh. If this number is just kwh it should become a variable like all the others in the formula has kwh can change with the life of the battery or maybe you want to factor in some preconditioning or use this formula for a vehicle other than a ford energi. Also, if 6.08 is just kwh or includes kwh (which it must), than listing the formula as... kwh / C * E * H / B Removes the need for brackets and makes the formula progression and arrival at a meaningful number easier to understand

As this doesn't consider $ at all it doesn't really relate to the op. Just converting kwh to gallons without factoring in what each cost and the variation in those costs is meaningless in the context of the op. Can you explain where you get 6.08 from? It's difficult to understand how this formula arrives at a meaningful number without knowing what 6.08 signifies.

I don't think it's very intelligent or the threshold is quite high. I've used the ice quite a lot this summer and am also on track for 20000 miles. But yes, 20k or two years, which ever comes first, is the max. You could never use the ice and the iolm will still want the oil changed at 20k.

From what is posted multiple times in these forums, 16s will not fit a fusion energi.

$2.5 for 20 miles of ev driving is equivalent to paying $5.25/g at an average of 42mpg. Even if it's all city driving and you manage 30 ev miles for that $2.5 you're still paying the equivalent of $3.5/g at an average of 42mpg.

I use the spreadsheet I worked up and posted in this fuel mileage forum. While this is true, this number is just as meaningless as mpge for someone who is concerned about things like total cost of ownership when cross shopping with other vehicles and break points where low gas prices may make driving on gas cheaper than driving on expensive electricity. Or "how much saved vs his sonata." For example, a slightly different calc, closer to the OP than yours, is needed for me to know that buying gas is cheaper than ever paying $2 to use some of the pay per hour or use public chargers around here.

I use auto or ev later all the time. Because unless you're a lead foot auto functions exactly the same as ev now anytime ev now is selectable. I never use ev now unless maybe I want to pass someone on a county road.

Wireless charging does have some losses making an item like this purely convenience. But imagine if those losses were offset by only carrying half or less of the battery weight (BEV). The UK recently completed a feasibility study and is now holding bids for a contract for real world tests to install wireless induction charging in roads and highways themselves so that vehicles could charge while driving. Even if they were only installed in highways, such that a BEV could get between cities with most or all of their charge remaining for use around the city.

The Ford Fusion and Cmax and what are known as parallel-series hybrids (as opposed to series-parallel or only one or the other). It would be pretty difficult for these parallel-series hybrids to run in a series without both a traction motor and a generator motor.

Here in Ontario, Canada insurance for plug in hybrids is cheaper than straight hybrids and hybrids are cheaper than straight gas cars. I would have paid less insurance for a 2014 fusion hybrid than I did on my 2001 f150 and I pay even less than that on my energi. Including paying extra for a waiver of depreciation on the 2014s.

That's nice. Not what I said but nice. Heating or cooling working "fine, as well, better, worse" is subjective and can depend a lot on expectations and ambient temperatures. What I said is that on level 1 charging I never see the HVB run down during a precondition triggered by a go time. It only does the best it can with the power available from the plug.

In my experience with my 2014 fusion energi, this is not true. While a level 1 does not supply enough power to completely condition the cabin, it does not run the HVB to supply the missing power. It simply does the best it can with the power from the plug. I use level one preconditioning all winter and most of the summer. I have never seen the battery below 100% when it shouldn't have been. A remote start however, being different than a precondition from a go time, does use the HVB or even the ice. It is my understanding that even a level 2 does not supply adequate power for all precondition scenarios. It is in fact only when the vehicle is plugged into a level 2 that the HVB is used to provide extra climate power to provide a burst of conditioning that will bring the vehicle more quickly to sustaining drain from climate demand (≤800 watts vs few thousand) and then charge the hvb back up again in time for the set go time.

Yes, and yes.

At least for my 2014, this is exaggeration. May be problems. Not will. I've had the car sit for two separate instances of more than a week without being plugged in, checking it an average of once every other day with mfm and without any 12v issues. Currently my vehicle is coming up on four weeks without a full charge (one part charge to bring it back to 60%) and having only been idled long enough to provide some charge the 12v twice.

What does titanium have to do with this? I think the real question you were asking is "do you have an energi with push button start?“ You can add push button start to the SE as an option option.

Unless your electricity is free or close to it, or you don't care about the cost and have your electricity supplied by a green grid, your millage really isn't that high anyway.