openair

Well if i hadn't already written off Ford Canada for providing am much lower quality of service here in Canada then Ford does in the states this recall sure would have.  Multiple people in here saying they've already had this done (more then a month ago).  I got the letter two weeks ago.  I called a dealership.  We'll call you back when we actually have parts.  No call back yet.  Good to know they proritize American parts over Canadian and we're second class.

I have the same issue my EVI branded Dousida charger.  I discovered that, in my case anyway, it is actually related to the charger software not properly handling the pausing and resuming of charging related to value charging setup within the vehicle.  I have disabled value charging, now manually plug it in when value charging would have started and have not had another instance of finding it not charged the next morning.  EVI offered to exchange mine, at my shipping expense, but since you're also having this issue I'm glad i didn't bother.

The 12v battery warnings are useless.  I have various weird issues such as the clock repeatedly slow, the vehicle using tomorrow's go times instead of today's and poor fuel economy that were resolved by replacing the 12v battery while there were no warnings and the 12v passed a cold cranking test.  My 12v was once replaced under warranty without a 12v low warning from the vehicle.

Mine does this too.  In my 2014 anyway, it is switching to show that the green efficiency bar is outside the target area and prompting to push ok to enable the ICE.  It even does this while the vehicle is at a complete stop where it is impossible for the green efficiency bar to be inside the target area as any kw or gallons divided into 0 miles is 0 mpge.  It is pour and short sighted programming with lack of proper testing and follow through from ford.  The fact that even when you push ok it often does not actually even run the ICE combined with prompting the user this after the user JUST told it to go ev power is pure ridiculous.  It causes the user to take their eyes of the road and push more buttons just to get back to where the user was.

Many around suggest that pushing the EV power beyond 2 bars (of 4) on the empower display causes degradtion of the battery. Certainly, in my own experience, pushing EV power beyond 2.5 bars for even a few minutes, in virtually any weather above freezing, causes the threshold to drop as though the battery were overheating. I would not recommend daily use of EV power to accelerate to highway speeds. The ICE (EV later) is best used for accelerating to highway speeds. You will need to engage ev later and accelerate hard enough (briefly) to get the ICE running BEFORE getting to the ramp.  This is to allow time for it to warm up at least a little so the software will provide a majority of the power to accelerate from the ICE and not the HVB in first phase warm up behavior. Once you've accelerated to speed can go back to auto or EV now.

In strictly emergency situations just floor it in any mode but Ev now. In actual emergencies it's not worth the added risk of reaching for the button.

My ICE came on 100% of the time for 3 days. No matter if I had 100 % charge or not. Thats why i'm thinking they didn't reset my oil change interval. Now its operating like it should be; ICE when needed when its cold like it still is here by the Great Lakes, but mostly EV mode. 

 

100% of the time doesn't say much.  If it came on 100% of the time of 5 km of all city driving that is meaningless.  The oil maintence mode is to remove moisture built up in the oil.  You need to drive the vehicle in EV later at highway speeds for 15+ minutes to get the engine warm enough to boil all the moisture out if you're seeing the low use message.

I don't even need my wife. I am both too hot and too cold at the same time.

Has dual zone climate controls where you can set one temp for driver and another for passenger. Yet in the winter it cannot maintain one temperature vertically as there seems to only be one temperature sensor on each side at about chest height. This means that defrosting the front window warms up the upper half of the vehicle enough that when the window is good and I turn on the floor vents they blow cold air trying to cool the temperature near the sensor because it has no sensor to tell it the foot well is still significantly colder.

 

Aka the dual zone climate controls in these vehicles are done so poorly they become a sales gimmick and the overall performance is worse then a non dual system where the same two sensors are placed properly (vertically, heat rises).

My 2014 fusion energi has been making a vibration noise the past two+ winters during below freezing temperatures. Always at highway speeds. Often when climbing a hill or accelerating with the ice producing greater than 2 bars.

 

It can be difficult to reproduce on demand as variable assist from the electric motor varies the demand on the ice. When it does occur: switching to auto, so majority of the power comes from the hvb instead of the ice, causes the noise to instantly disappear. Letting up on the accelerator or pressing it harder will also cause the noise to gradually fall off. These symptoms suggest it is either a problem with the engine, transmission or maybe the noise cancelling.

 

It only occurs in the morning when the vehicle has sat overnight in the cold.

Never omw home from work. There are no dtcs. The vehicle has had numerous inspections in this time. Including their most detailed inspection last month with no results.

 

I'm likely going to have to take at least one morning off work to demonstrate the issue. Anyone else experience similar?

I'm curious why anyone knowledgeable like yourself would want a Leaf with its inadequate cooling. Worse than the Energi's, but with a higher C value.

The 60kw version is rumoured to have a thermal management system. 160km round trip commute means nothing short of 60kw will make the trip reliably in the winter. The bolt's seats are too narrow. The lack of instruments in front of the driver, long waiting list and no local stores push the model 3 down the list.

 

A local Nissan dealership will be holding onto a Leaf for test drives so I hope to drive my commute with the tester to see exactly how much the battery heats up and whether some self control will be adequate or if the rumoured thermal management system would be required. Also the leaf with all its buttons and instruments is a stark contrast to the model 3 that fits my personality better.

After driving an F150 for almost 10 years my experiences with this vehicle for the past 3 years has killed ford for me.  Has also killed any gas vehicle built in the past 5 years or any PHEV.  They're so complicated to squeeze every last MPG they can get that when they no longer get that fuel economy or something intermittent occurs they have no idea where to even start.  My next vehicle will be a BEV of some sort.  Possibly a 60kw 2019 Leaf so i voted Leaf (twice, as its on the list twice ;)).

I finally let a local Ev certified dealership complete the telematics recall a few months back. I had waited a long time after it became available as my old modem still worked for awhile longer here in Canada then those in the states. However even after waiting months to get this done the interior trim that was removed for the recall was not replaced at that time. They claimed to have broken the clips and had no spares. Being busy with overtime it was as about a month before I got back in to have them replace it. It came lose again about 1.5 months ago and I just picked up the vehicle after taking it in for some general maintenance and asked them to fix this again. The paperwork states that any trim removed for the recall is "tight and secure." The pics below show that it is visibly hanging with a large gap between this panel and the next. It was not like this before the recall. Anyone interested in buying the vehicle is going to be turned off by the ugliness. A recall that only partially restored functionality of MFM and reduced the appearance and resale value is exactly what I've come to expect from Ford and they don't disappoint!

Yes. Not just for 2018. Hybrid soon to follow as well.

 

http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1113728_ford-c-max-energi-plug-in-production-over-hybrid-has-only-months-left

Maybe I'm missing something, but the picture you posted shows your HV battery depleted and your car working in Hybrid mode with EV Now and EV Later grayed out.  That is the way it is supposed to work.  The image of your battery shows no numbers of miles left on it which tells me you used up all the Plug-in miles, and are now operating on the Hybrid portion of the battery.  You can only get EV Now and EV later when there are miles displayed on the battery, not in hybrid mode.  The little bit of juice showing on the battery is what is left of hybrid mode.

 

Feel free to correct me on this, but that's what I see.  My 15 Fusion Energi looks the same as your C-Max

 

Looks to me like the 3d icon used for the ev range.  The hybrid mode icon doesn't have the same edges.  The number was removed from this icon in later model years.  

This is programming that seems like it should be relatively easy to debug, since it likely involves only one variable, the charge level. The battery gauge and the EV mode selector code are reading different values.

 

These cars are computers, and should have the ability to push a button to dump the contents of memory and the sensors to a removable SD card.

I agree Ford should be able to do something more then nothing without a dtc however there is likely far more involved then the one variable you assume here. In my case, with the same Ev now later not available with white x's, I had a dtc for coolant heater performance and the heater was not performing as intended. Ev later and now may be locked out like this for many reasons as a safety.

 

And even though I had a orange wrench for a powertrain fault it took about 9 months dozens of trips to multiple dealers all within 3 days of an orange wrench appearing for anything from Ford other then "No dtc so nothing." Eventually managed to get into a dealer with the orange wrench still present and finally there was a dtc. The second time the heater was replaced there was a dtc without the orange wrench present. So either it was a case of a unknown and unhandled error or the dealers did not want to perform a repair they had no experience with and would take longer for them to learn then they would be reimbursed and didn't want to try. Remember we're talking about the same Ford who needed a class action lawsuit against them so they would do more then throw 3+ of the same defective clutch at a focus.

For the post that mentioned this was resolved through a defective heater; could you please elaborate more? Anything I could show to dealer on next visit would be helpful!

 

Thanks for reading my long post!

I had these symptoms resolved by replacing my electric heater. However these symptoms were also accompanied with an orange wrench for a powertrain fault and it still look more then a year and the electric heater being replaced twice. If you're not seeing an orange wrench and the dealer cannot find any dtc's you're likely stuck with the issue as is par for the course for Ford.

 

The electric heater is also likely only one of many potential causes for these symptoms.

The in car clock being out is a sign of bad 12v voltage.  I had experienced this as well.  Check for other signs like the vehicle using tomorrows go times instead of todays (would frequently think it's monday when it wasn't and the date and time were correct).  Was also causing me intermittent pour fuel economy as the trimmings were also (partially?) corrupted by poor 12v.  Never got a warning of low 12v.  In my case found major corrison on one of the 12v terminals and seems much better after cleaning.

Had the same thing happen to me last summer omw to pickup my brother for my wife and I's bachelor/bachelorette party. Inch+ tear in driver's front sidewall. So I'm out of town. I still have to pick up my brother. He was out of town with friends as well and I was his ride. And it's a weekend in Canada. I got a tow alright but I had to call about 15 rental companies to find one who was even open.

 

There was once a thread on here where someone said certain escape? spares would fit but I can't see carrying one often enough with our small trunk to make it worthwhile.

I haven't had any issues with the new update on the app, but it hasn't done anything to fix the fact the value charge locations don't work.

Yea, client side updates to the app are not going to fix this. The app knows where the vehicle is. It changes to "charging at home" or work, or whatever your profiles are named, while the vehicle remains at default. Maybe fixable with a server software update. Most likely will require a software update to the vehicle itself though.

Agreed with jj2me. New version, new bug. App shows 2% charge, updated multiple times, while it's at 100%. Have the notification that charging is complete, while showing 2% charge and updated less than one minute ago all at the same time on the app.

Thanks for testing but I could have done without the arrogance and condescension. Of course I'm not trying to put it into N. Of course I'm trying to move it one click at a time but it slips into N with little to no difference in number or sound of click(s). Unless I'm extremely careful and push it very slowly it does what it wants.

 

When shifting from L to D, without the trigger, there is significant resistance to over come. There is no such resistance from D to N when it wants to go all the way from L to N. So I have to first push hard enough to over come this resistance, then know the exact point I will over this resistance so that I can suddenly stop before it actually makes the click noise. As the noise occurs when it has reached D or N. Not before.

 

This is not correct. The behaviour should not change whether my foot is on the accelerator or not and at the very least there should be equal resistance between D and N as between D and L. Otherwise I have to take my eyes off the road to avoid accidentally putting it in N and the added wear of the sudden torque of putting it back into D from N at highway speeds.

Yea, it goes from L to D without the button every time. That's not what I'm talking about. With my foot on accelerator it will go from L, straight through D, into N without pulling the trigger. Without my foot on the accelerator it stops at D.

Without pulling the trigger on the shifter:

 

With my foot on the accelerator the shifter often slips all the way from L to N.

 

With my foot off the accelerator it will only go from L to D, unless I pull the trigger.

 

When in D, with my foot on or off the accelerator, it will not slip into N, unless I pull the trigger.

 

Anyone else??

I finally had my modem replaced.  The location based value charging worked with the old modem up until the day it was replaced.  Now, as with everyone else, the location based value charging is broken.  All the other features of the modem and MFM worked right away but the one featured that still worked before the recall, the one feature i use everyday, is now broken.  I also still, despite waiting 6 months to get this recall done in the hopes they'd have it sorted out by then, had to take the vehicle back again so they could finish reinstalling the interior panel as the clips were either broken or not ordered as others here have reported.

Don't machine them. I had mine machined and three months later, without hard braking, they were pitted and needed machining or replacing again. If they're already warped from over heating, when they're thinner after the machining, they warp even easier.