zippoking

For FFE, would this transfer shaft kit possibly prevent the transmission failures that some have had (although it seems much more prevalent on the FFH)? I have a '14 FFE, with a 70k miles now and about 1 year left on hybrid parts warranty. So I'm wondering if I want to keep this car for the long haul is it possible that this kit might be a little insurance just in case something hits the fan after the warranty expires?

I took a simpler approach, especially since I (think) I did it very early at around 60k miles. Drain as much as possible from the petcock on the bottom of radiator, then refill and run a few times to top off. But then I did all that again a few months later, and figure I've easily replaced about 75%. It will always provide cooling, but the anti corrosion properties diminish over time, I've read.

Thought the manual says it's a lifetime filter

I had this done at a dealer that has good prices generally for $140 out the door w/ $10 off service coupon. I'm only at 60k miles but I want to keep this car a long time so was being proactive. They said the oil looked really clean. 10 quarts on the invoice. Also it's apparently more complicated than the regular hybrid, they hadn't done many if any Energi's yet. Another dealer quoted as high as $280! No flush, just a drain and fill as recommended by Ford, which I think makes sense if you do it early enough. 150k that the manual recommends seems way too long to wait, but who knows. I tend to think the interval is extended to lower the "5 year cost of ownership" price that you often see for comparison shopping on new cars.

On my wall (and now my watch begins)

I got the new one, its very rectangular now. They took the old one and said they are sending it back to Ford. I mount mine to the wall as I use it every night. And they give you a replacement foam piece for the trunk since it's different dimensions.

I'd also like to hear more about anyone over 100k miles. I have a '14 at 56k miles and plan to hopefully go to at least 150k. Was thinking I'd do a trans fluid change somewhat soon at a dealer while still under warranty, just in case...

There a drain underneath the front shield, not the same one as the eng oil, but its a real pain in the butt to get to, I had to also loosen a bracket that goes across just under the radiator, but if you have a hose to put on to drain then its not too bad.

I did a partial drain and fill of a gallon after 50k miles, and it drained from that reservoir too. I think the color change isn't a huge concern, but you're due for coolant change now I think.

On second thought, maybe I tricked myself into thinking it works

I think this is finally working again, it's giving me my specific charge profile at home and I don't have to keep switching the default anymore.

My EV miles are updating now!!!!

For me it's mostly working, the % reported is always correct, and I can start car and remote lock/unlock. I think the issue with charge now/value charge has to do with it confusing between default and a specific location set, but I tried removing and add that location back in and it still gets confused. I have to set default to value charge and then at home it does my scheduled charge times. Still wondering if anyone is sure that removing vehicle and adding again on the website will definitely fix the issue and if that resets stats?

Mine is also stuck at 11 miles after the modem upgrade. Also it seems I cant set new go times and it also doesn't seem to switch between value and charge now. Someone mentioned removing the car from website and readding. Will that reset the stats like gallons saved and achievements?

In my 2014 FFE, I think the switch over is more noticeable the very first time it happens in a trip, when it is cold out. But otherwise its very seamless.

I used to get audible beeps all the time when I was near something like a garage pillar or backing up near a garbage can, but lately I never hear it beep. I don't have the reverse sensing system, just the reverse cam and BLIS. Anyone else ever notice something like this happen?

Yeah I agree here, the cooling works fine at 120V but you can't expect much from the heating, that will use extra HVB power. In polar vortex season in Chicago, this is still worth it!

Someone at work that has a Volt and I with my FFE tried each others chargers and they did not work. The Volt charger has (and this may have changed at some point) a selector button for 8 and 12 A charging, since the Volt supports that with its charger. That may be controlled on the dash in newer ones. But this charger wouldn't work on my FFE at the 12A setting. He also couldn't use mine, but the outlet we had was really remote and maybe had some Voltage drop, because he would get a fault charging at 12A, although 8A would work. I could charge just fine at 12A with my Ford charger, so it must have been close. I'd be curious if anyone else has had success with Volt charger. I may have posted about this a while back... He's not here anymore so we can't experiment anymore, plus they took away the plug for this use (ggrr). Whatever, I still average 80mpg.

So all winter that I've had this car, I always noticed that if you turn on the defrost when its below freezing the engine will run. I assumed this was due to possible safety concerns of visibility and needing to get warm air fast. Sometimes I notice that you can avoid the engine running when sitting at a stop light and not moving, but if you then accelerate the engine comes on, or sometimes it will just come on anyway after a certain amount of time. Well today I thought about the vent only issue regarding the AC, and it turns out that if you set the temp to LO, it will not run the engine when defrost is on nor affect the battery range, I'm guessing because the compressor doesn't come on. This won't melt ice off your windows, but I notice a lot of times in winter the windows just get foggy from me breathing, so this counters that and you can stay in EV mode only. Seems to work in AUTO and EV only mode. This may still be colder than some prefer, but I like it!

Not to mention the potential of damaging the Fusion battery, and perhaps setting that on fire. I wonder if part of the communication in the charging plug includes the Voltage level, or if that is automatic. Either way, you're just asking for trouble with that idea...

I went to a dealer with a Quicklane for an oil change, had to ask them to move the service vehicle but they happily did, and I charged for a bit while I waited.

I thought if you just have the regular charger plugged in it will keep the 12V battery charged too?

I did that twice in the same way, if you use the keypad to unlock the car, I think you press the last button a second time or something, and I at first thought this might then unlock all the doors rather than just the one, but no, it was the trunk. The second time I did it was just me being an idiot an not remembering that, doh. I figure there's a good enough chance I'll get rear ended someday so why bother fixing...

I think you'd be ok because as I recall it was for models built before a certain date in 2013, which included some 2014 models. But it would still be good to know what you find out or notice. I also haven't gone back to ask due to the difficulty in demonstrating the issue. Another way I'm sure it is happening is when you press the AC button with a full charge and see the EV miles drop off a lot, as expected, but then try to turn it off again and they stay the same. I don't think the service personnel are experienced enough always to know about stuff like this, can't say I blame them.

Does anyone know how to verify the FCIM calibration? I asked my dealer to do this the last time I was there and the said they did, but it seems like there are still some situations where I can try to cycle the AC button and it won't change.