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I checked the online calculator for the repurchase by Ford, and in my area of WA it is on par with used retail prices for 2020’s. Other than the recall the car has been great to drive with many bells and whistles. I will miss the car and would rather have a fix and keep it but am going to sell it back. I like the plug-in gas option. All in town electric, and a whopping 600 mile range! Probably will buy a used Honda Clarity, although it does not have all the bells and whistles!! I bought in June 2021 with $10,000 off MSRP, so that with the EV tax credit, and the repurchase I will actually be out $0. Feel lucky and fortunate! I checked KBB and my cars trade value is $18,200-$20,700, private sale estimate is $20,200-$22,700. If I juice it to excellent I get $23,612. Retail they are going for about $23,000 or so without a $4,000 used tax credit. Spoke to Ford today and locked in their offer $24,950 total. So, my purchase price was $28,442 in June 2021. Minus the $4,601 tax credit in 2021, it was $23,841. No sales tax, I traded in a more expensive car that had shot up in value! Add in the $300 for the 4G antenna and I am at $24,141. I spoke to the initial CS rep and she was great. The next level Rep Is supposed to call within five business days. I will update when I hear from them.

I have a 2013 Energi Titanium and I replaced the HV battery myself with a battery I had shipped from a salvage yard half-way across the country that I found through a used salvage parts network online. (SE batteries are easy to find, larger Energi batteries not so much). It was surprisingly easy to do (except the lifting, they are quite heavy, can get it with 2 people though). Just keep track of how it comes apart and it goes right back together. Watch your defrost clips on the rear window when taking the panels off, knocked one off on the driver side and had to get the glue to put it back on. All in cost me like $1600 to replace it myself. Dealership wanted $9500 to do it. Now I get the full charge miles from a fresh charge again (18 miles for that generation), like new and it has been a year and a half since I installed it.

In theory there should be no problem doing this if there's no other reoccurring trouble codes. The only caveat I'd make for earlier model years if you plan to run it as a pure hybrid is to disable the EV+ mode. This permits the vehicle to deeply discharge the battery when reaching often visited destinations (ie: work/home) with the intent that it's going to be plugged in when you get there. Being this deeply discharged combined with the natural self discharge that happens as the battery sits/cools has the potential to bring it too low and cause further issues especially for a degraded battery with poor cells. Off topic: TBH, I recommend disabling EV+ for hybrid models as well and without having a plug to charge them up, it's even more of something to worry about. And you're not gaining much out of it there anyways as it just means the ICE is going to work harder at the next start to charge the battery back up. There was one owner who posted here or on the Fusion Hybrid forum a while back that had to have their dealer bring in a large off-board charger after their HVB got deeply discharged from a camping trip when the vehicle was repeatedly 'woken up'/doors opened/etc.. The DC-DC converter actually does wake up and provide some low level ~13V charge even if it is not fully running but unlocked/woken. So based on this anecdote (and one or two others I've seen mentioned over the years with direct EV+ related issues) it seems like there's definitely enough of a 'loophole' in Ford's programming to allow it to discharge to an unsafe state.

If they'll let you, do a full battery test. It'll take up to an hour depending on the route you choose: Start with a 100% full battery set the car to EV mode set a trip odometer to zero gently drive a route that is <50MPH, preferably with as few stops as possible drive until left screen says "EV mode not available" which is ~30 seconds after reaching 0% on the battery Look on the trip odometer for both miles driven and especially kWh used. Here's a guide on the health of the battery: 5 - 5.5 kWh - Great shape 4.5 - 5 kWh - good shape 4-4.5 kwh - fair shape 3.5-4 kWh - poor shape 3-3.5 kWh - awful shape < 3 kWh run away! With 90k miles I wouldn't expect the top tier, and even 2nd tier is unlikely though possible. if it is at least 4kWh and a good price, I'd go for it. Also pay attention to the miles you got in the test - is it enough for your intended use (commute) with some buffer for the cold days?

I thought I read a clause in the Quebec regs that's state the vehicle must be 2020 or later. Mines a 2019. Lex group never got back to me, but I get the sense we are gaining some momentum with this. I'll reach out again and report back.

I recently was hit lightly from behind while I was parked, which slightly raised the trunk. I saw the problem, but didn't think much of it. Two months later I got the check engine light, which said the HVB cooling system had failed. sure enough, neither of the fans were working. I pulled the trunk apart, and the fix seemed simple. I then checked the warrantee, which is 8 years. Mine is a 2017, so i called ford and found out i had one month left on the HVB system, so I took the car into ford service. they identified the problem i had, which was the fans were failed. I also asked them to check the battery to ensure i still had the guaranteed 80% life (which I knew I did not have, I only get 14 miles per charge). They determined the fans had failed due to the water infiltration, so it wasn't Ford's problem. They then stated that because the fans had failed, the guarantee was void, and ford was not responsible for the weak battery. now my battery will charge to 14 miles, but self discharges when i unplug it over the course of 4 or 5 hours. Basically i have a battery that was under warrantee, and failed, but Ford used my water infiltration issue to declare it not their problem. My lesson learned is I should have just replaced the fans myself, not involving Ford at all, then presented the car for the battery check, which would have revealed the failing battery. Now I'm on the hook for the $5000 repair. Sigh.

Yeah that's abnormal. Even if it was running at full speed it shouldn't make that bad bearing sound. I'd take it in to have it looked at if you can confirm warranty is good. There are two fans for the battery system - one for the BECM and one for the cells. Only the BECM fan runs while charging. The front cooling fan for the radiator isn't running too, is it? If "Go times" are set it will cool (or heat) the cabin when plugged in; if that's acting up it might turn on the A/C every time you plug in the car. Just something else to consider/look out for.

I had a 2015 Energi that became my son's car - at 106k miles this past December we decided to upgrade (he loved his Fusion) to a 2020 Energi, knowing about the battery issue and a hope for a fix. With that I was also surprised and upset about the modem issue - took matters into my own hands and replaced it with a newer modem from a Ford vehicle that was 4g and used Forscan to update it on his 2020 - works like a charm. Check out the Cyan Labs forum for more details and what specific modem and antenna will work. Hopefully we get a battery fix soon. I had a lifetime 59mpg on that 2015 with 106k.

My 2020 FFE had a leak and it came from the 3rd brake light which then leaked to the rear deck inside the car and finally worked it way down to the trunk. I had noticed that my 3rd brake light had moisture in it but didn't think much of that at the time. But after a hard rain the inside of my car became a little musty with condensation on the inside a few days later when the sun was out. I discovered the water in the trunk of my car and I had asked my wife about if she spilled water in it because she had driven it a few time and she said yes her water bottle had spilled out and forgot to tell me! So I dried it all out and thought that was it... until it rained again. So now I'm hunting for the leak and then I noticed the drivers side C panel had a streak of water running down it and the rear deck was moist. I thought it must be the 3rd brake light but couldn't find any others who had this problem. However the Mustang uses the same 3rd brake light and there are a lot of posts about how it is leak prone. Several fixes can be found from replacing the housing to using sealant... I ended up replacing my 3rd brake light and the rear deck cover as the fabric was discolored and just touching it would get black lint over your fingers. This was over a year ago and we have had some really hard rain and no more leaks. Long story short... check your 3rd brake light... and check your rear deck cover when you find water in your trunk...

So now I am having the water in the trunk issues. In my case it is the seal around the trunk lid. Water runs down the side of the trunk lid and gets between the lid and the gasket/seal. It then collects in the bottom of the trunk where the fan unit is. Now I am also having a 12V charging issue. Got a couple of wrench lights and a "charging system fault" for the 12V battery. I think my DC/DC converter has issues. I need to troubleshoot.

5G vs 4G/LTE I don't think is going to be a problem for a long while. The way all the main US carriers (at least. No idea about in other countries) have things set up is the LTE and 5G sides share the same bands and they can dynamically allocate how much of that band each uses based on what all the connected devices/phones/etc are using at any given moment. So they can easily coexist for quite a while. Does that mean they won't eventually drop LTE altogether? No. But compared to previous gens they have a much longer 'runway' to work with before they have to cut off LTE entirely. Plus there's so many of the bands available they can probably keep one around as a fallback. I know for T-Mobile, Band 12 has been their 'litmus test' and baseline required support for VoLTE service and is a low frequency/high range band. This would be an ideal one to keep as LTE only while everything else eventually moves to 5G IMHO.

I have a 2015 Ford fusion titanium energy. Just recently I went to my car and found water in the trunk and couldn’t find where it could come from. Then I plugged in my FIXD sensor and it came up with something like hybrid battery pack or something like that. I ended up taking it to ford and found out the the hybrid battery cooling fan is not working. I looked it up on how to replace and choose to do it myself. But I’d still like to know where the water came from?? If anyone has an idea, let me know. Thanks

Update on this. I met with the legal firm (https://www.gluckstein.com/class-actions/Ford-Fusion-PHEV-2019-2020-Recall-Class-Action/learn-more) and they have confirmed that they are going ahead with a Class Action against Ford in Canada. If you are affected, suggest you contact them via that form. Note that in Canada, all impacted owners are automatically opted-in for the class action, but wouldn't hurt to get your contact info on their list. Good to know that someone will be fighting Ford on this. Lawyer said there are approximately 4000 Canadian vehicles impacted by the recall. He said he will be meeting with Ford lawyers in late April to discuss. He indicated that this meeting would be very informative regarding Ford's approach to resolving this. If they have a fix coming, the settlement would be for additional gas charges. If Ford decides to scrap the fix, the settlement scope gets much larger. Either way it may take up to a year before it hits the courts. Lawyer suggested I contact him in May for updates. Will report back.

Having similar issue caused by water in the trunk. Can't find leak anywhere. If I fix the fan, just going to happen again. Anyone find this leak?

I am meeting with them this week.

Thats not too bad because I only paid $21K in Jan 21 for my 2019 Fusion Energi Titanium. It only had 4K miles and has less then 30K now. How many miles and is it a Titanium like mine? I may consider it if they offered that for mine. BTW I drank the Tesla juice...lol

Hello, @jsamp! Thank you for your reply, and I hope you DO get the ‘69 Cougar to 1,000,000! I’ve seen your posts and comments over the years when I’d just view the website, so it’s a bit of a trip to see your reply in the best way possible, haha. I don’t think it will make it to 1,000,000 miles either, at least on the stock parts. I do anticipate having to either have the EV or hybrid motor repaired or replaced, but I’m hoping it happens after 500,000 miles, haha! My mentality is to hopefully grow with the car to the point where I know what to expect in the sense of failures ahead of time. If it does make it to 500,000 miles on stock motors and the stock transmission, my modest math would be to assume I’ll have to replace them at least once every X miles. The “X” is 300,000 miles and counting, for now. I think weather, preventive measures(like never going below a 20% charge which I don’t), maintenance, and so on will lead to the concluding result, but time will tell most. I will run that test and get back to you here. Overall, I just hope it keeps chugging along. [url=https://ibb.co/z4ywsD7][img]https://i.ibb.co/kSRFKv9/F97-F36-FD-B98-B-4-C88-90-C1-37244-C242-BFE.jpg[/img][/url] Are photos not allowed anymore?

Hello, Anybody out there? My name is Pheonix, and I own a 2014 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium with approximately 300,000 miles. The car is currently on its stock motors, transmission, spark plugs(12/2023, oops, but thanks, EV mode), and so on. I primarily requested to join this group as I I’ve always been a lurker of older posts and users through out the years, but I’ve noticed the ownership rating(in the sense or how many people still use them) of these cars has plummeted the last few years. It is evident I missed out on the prime eras for the vehicle. I have a dream and an ambition to get this car to 1,000,000 miles, and to give it to Ford or a Ford Museum or somewhere where it can sit as a positive reflection of Ford and the Ford Fusion Energi. They’re also incredibly cheap in California, and I have had thoughts about starting a fleet rental company with Energi or hybrid models. I am rebuilding the suspension with KONI STR. T shocks and struts, Steeda 7/8” lowering springs, and a few other suspension upgrades mostly provided by MOOG Suspension. I aspire to document everything as best as I can, and hopefully inspire some other people around this series from the Ford Fusion lineup. I have a representative from Steeda that is going to help find other applicable parts as well. I live in a hilly area in Southern California, so my EV range for the life of the car has said 41 miles. I’ve changed the 02 sensors, spark plugs, motor mounts, and a few other things within the last couple of months and I will post the upgrades accordingly on the website/thread categories. Best wishes to you all! 🙂

There's a Canadian law firm named Gluckstein Lawyers who appears to be doing a class action law suit against Ford. I pasted a link below that takes you to a form where you can express interest in participating in their class action lawsuit. https://www.gluckstein.com/class-actions/Ford-Fusion-PHEV-2019-2020-Recall-Class-Action/learn-more

Any of the OBDLink models and use Forscan on the software side. Best combo for Ford vehicles. If all you want to do is read codes, you can go a little cheaper and get a generic Bluetooth/USB OBD adapter on Amazon/eBay. I'd recommend finding one that can read MS-CAN as well so you get full coverage of modules. EDIT: Here's a thread on the Forscan forums detailing their recommended adapters. They have a few tables listing out the OBDLink models and what's recommended for various tasks: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6142

As noted, there's no filter on the HVB. ForScan does essentially have a 'test mode' option to manually take control of certain actuators in the car and one is the HVB fan. But there's no way to adjust it's own operating conditions/temp curve outside of that. I know one distant 'pie in the sky' idea I had wanted to try with my own vehicle at some point is build a microcontroller that I can leave installed in the vehicle and have it force the fan to run under conditions I desire. But that'll require some reverse engineering of the CAN bus data which is my biggest roadblock. In the C-Max community, there has been one member who has figured out some details on the cooling operation of these batteries. Given the similar powertrain to the Fusion Hybrid/Energi I imagine the operation is not any different but don't quote me 100% on that. But one key point is that the cooling fan will only come on once the interior cabin temp is at least 20 degrees F below the battery temp. If it's within that window, even if the battery is near overheating, it doesn't do anything. Even then the cooling system is pretty inadequate and even with Max AC and the cabin being an icebox, the battery doesn't cool down fast enough during normal, full EV operation. And I imagine for the Fusion being largely buried inside the trunk (The battery in the C-Max is entirely inside the conditioned cabin space) it just makes it worse. Monitoring the battery temp and keeping it in check is absolutely essential if you worry about longevity and maintaining capacity. Also a semi-unrelated note, but worth mentioning: When plugging in to charge, you may hear a cooling fan running from outside the car. This is just for the onboard charging module. Under normal 'key off, get out, plug in' operation, the battery cooling fan will never come on. Some have tricked it by plugging in while the car is still running and then shut it off. In very hot conditions, avoiding charging or at least limiting to L1 is preferable.

I know on my C-Max, the oil maintenance mode does keep the ICE running 100% of the time even at stops. I imagine the behavior shouldn't be any different with the Fusion. But yeah, sounds like the oil life monitor wasn't reset. The above instructions will do it and should kick it out of that mode. Just an FYI: This should ONLY be done after oil changes. Do NOT do it just to end the oil maintenance mode. This mode is designed to run after the ICE has been repeatedly run for short intervals and not allowed to reach full operating temp. It then runs the ICE 100% to boil off the moisture in the oil accumulated from those short operations. And it'll continue to run even after vehicle restarts until it is satisfied. It basically wants to get to full operating temp for a certain period of time (I don't think this has been documented and I haven't seen anything in the copy of the service manual I have for the C-Max) before it'll end.

"horrible mileage as a hybrid" ? Really??? The 2019's are rated at 42MPG combined, and driven carefully can reach upwards of 48MPG. While that is a far cry from what you get when 50% of your miles come from EV mode, it is nothing to sneeze at. Unfortunately Ford has really dropped the ball on this one. So far the only promise is a fix is coming "late 2024" and the $250 is supposed to tide you over. Poor showing by Ford IMHO.

That's a bit of a jump from "it's got a weak battery" to "just use it as a hybrid". If he's looking at an Energi I presume he wants at least some EV miles out of it. Otherwise no point in paying more for the Energi. The added downfall is 33% less trunk space than a hybrid, which is already 25% reduced from an ICE fusion.

Temperature has a huge impact on the EV mode kWh test. I've been thinking of recording results at various temperatures to graph the effect of temperature on usable EV capacity but haven't taken the plunge. In the summer with our '17 approaching 80k, I still get close to 5 kWh and about 23 miles for the test. With the battery at 40F, I get about 4.1 kWh and 19 miles.

With the help of this thread and forum and others I was able to replace the modem and use forscan to activate it. It is working, but I am not seeing any of the EV stuff in the App and also when I remote start it says it failes, but it more off then not does work, also I cannot stop it. Not sure If there is a asbuild I can use to get that working. I got the factory new kit not a used module. Ford Lincoln 3G Telematics Control Upgrade Kit to 4G VMU7Z-A00A25-E and used the TSB guide to install as the dealer would. Its is also a HJ5T telematics unit. I have a 2020 FFE btw.

Thanks Jsamp. Yes, I think it's primarily the water exposure issue. Just not sure how the breach occurred allowing water to get in. Was wondering if others had this issue too.

Ford say fix might be available 4 quarter of 2024. How are we to be reimbursed for lost mileage and I pay extra for tages in ohio for a plug in I can’t use. Talked to ford on the phone I was told they may have a fix 4th quarter of 2024 . Class action may be the only way to speed this up.

And also, let us know when we can actually use the 2020 FFE on batteries again. Its been six months.

I have a 2020 fusion energi and it's just air cooling.

Nothing on our 2017. Just a pair of cooling fans which draw air in from the trunk and exhaust it out underneath - one for the BECM and one for the battery pack.

Created an account just to let everyone know that my buyback from Ford has been approved. I'm still awaiting the final offer, but I'm surprised they agreed to a buyback since Ohio doesn't have the best consumer protection laws. So my advice is if you're not happy with your car or the length of time for the remedy (or even the potential remedy itself), call Ford corporate and explain that it's unacceptable that you can't use your vehicle as initially intended until late 2024 at the earliest. Ford might just be approving these so they don't have to go through the hassle of fixing all 15k+ vehicles. Or they don't want to get caught up in a class action lawsuit.

Private message sent just now.

Just got to 110K miles this week so time for a battery test on my 2015 Energi. Temp was a perfect 72°F Same route as always. A bit less this time: 24.5 miles and 4.9kWh to hybrid mode. I did have three quick stops with bad brake scores due to red lights and someone turning left in front of me, so I'm guessing the loss of regen braking is what killed the miles so bad. Just from the loss of .2kWh I would expect a loss of ~1 mile, not 3 compared to last time. I came back down the hill as usual gaining back charge and continued on until the gas engine fired up. 30.6 miles and 5.2kWh. A slow loss of capacity and range, but still a lot of life left in this battery.

Degrading the community is a great way to solicit advice. Retrofit the factory LED housings into your FFE. It was an option. Putting LED bulbs into halogen housings is never a great idea as they have different beam (diffraction) patterns.

Success! 1) purchased the recommended cable and USB 2.0 hub (thanks again to those that pushed back on trying it with Bluetooth!) 2) Flashed the “UM” update in 53 minutes . . No errors 3) did the Forscan reset on both the TCU and the APIM 4) checked for the correct configs. . . All good 5) Did the SYNC reset 6) Modem shows up in SYNC 7) Value charge toggle all good in SYNC 8 ) Via the Connected Car app I did the “register” thing and instantly the accept popped up on the SYNC screen. 9) Deleted FordPass from iPhone and loaded it again 10 ) Logged into app and can lock and unlock car from top level FordPass app screen . . .it works nearly instantly even in my garage 11) on next screen after clicking on the car image it shows my exact location, total range, battery charge level, and gas tank level along with a green check mark for no alerts 12) under status both tire pressure (not showing actual pressure, but that all is OK and Oil life (18%) are working fine 13) if I click on charge settings I get an orange alert with “Please update in-vehicle settings to enable connectivity” but when I follow the instructions there is no such “FordPass Connect” icon in SYNC or the other icon they mention may be there (there is the regular USB basic FordPass in apps, but not “FordPass Connect”. The rest of the settings on that page do not work. 14) Charge level notification shows the charge level, but times out when I indicate I want notification 15) No value charge toggle anywhere so far in the app. For those that have been through this is #13-#15 what I need to wait for or is there perhaps a APIM setting that needs to be changed? I am getting that one TCU code since I am using the “Amazon” antenna, but I will wait a bit before I decide if I want to get the official Ford antenna. No other codes. Thanks again to all that have contributed their hard earned wisdom!

Done!

Pics

If you try to replicate what I did, don't blame me if it doesn't work for you. You assume all responsibility for the modification to your car. I just did it for the second time today. This time I got a better fit. I had a Bosch BXT-96R-590 battery that I bought in January before I knew the car existed. It must be an "R" battery so the positive post is at the front of the car. I did it "hot" with another battery connected to the terminals under the hood. It is absolutely essential to completely insulate the positive battery cable, once it is removed from the old battery, to prevent it from touching any metal. If you are not comfortable working "hot" don't do it hot. Some functions of the car will have to be reprogrammed and the computer will have to relearn the ICE operating parameters if not done hot. Empty out the trunk so nothing is in your way. Remove the floor covering. There are two plastic pins in the plastic piece that runs across the back edge of the trunk. Pop both of them out. Pull straight up on the plastic piece and note the spring clips that hold it in place. Put it aside. Unscrew the plastic knob at the left bottom of the trunk. I assume it is the lower attachment for a cargo net. Unscrew the plastic piece at the upper left. It may be a cargo net knob or it it may be a simple piece of plastic. Remove the battery door. Find and remove the plastic pin that secures the battery area fiber panel to the upper left side of the trunk. Push forward on the fiber to lift it off the two bolts that the plastic knobs were on. Fold the fiber section toward the front of the car to reveal the battery. Remove the bolt that secures the battery wedge in place. All bolts and nuts in this area are metric sizes. Unplug the vent tube from the battery. Loosen the negative battery cable and remove it from the battery post. Lay it on the floor of the trunk. In the following step be absolutely certain that the wrench does not touch any metal parts of the car. Loosen the positive battery cable and remove it from the battery post. If you are working hot, insulate the battery cable so no part of the connector is visible. I wrapped it with copious amounts of cloth. Remove the nut that secures the two ends of the battery strap together and separate them. Lift the battery out of the car. Move the vent plug from the front of the old battery to the front of the new battery. The battery tray is held by three bolts. I removed the battery tray from the car and cut the rear end out of it. Two short vertical cuts and one long horizontal cut. The new battery now fits snugly into the tray. Test the fit before putting the tray back into the car. Bolt the modified tray into the car and install the battery. Connect the positive battery cable to the battery. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery. If working hot, disconnect the auxiliary battery. It is not possible to use the bolted wedge clamp to hold the battery. The strap that bolts together around the battery fits fine. Plug the existing vent tube into the rear vent of the new battery. Put the fiber wall and the plastic trim back in place. If this sounds complicated get help or don't try it.